2001 Disco 2 rear windows not working

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Parrot of Doom

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12
Hi there

I'm trying to track down a fault on this Disco I'm selling. The rear windows don't wind up or down, either at the console or on the doors. A bit of searching reveals a common dry joint problem at the window ECU, so I went behind the glove box on mine looking for this ECU, and haven't been able to find it.

What I found instead was two single-pole wires, and a third twin-pole cable, not connected to anything. I wonder if something has been removed, and if anyone can tell me what?

Pics:

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5319894882_39d0f187e4_b.jpg


...and the three connectors. It almost looks as though the two black wires should be plugged into the yellow cable, and the combination plugged into the firewall somewhere, but I'm not going to risk that until I know exactly how it's supposed to be wired.

5319294299_6fff51b2d6_b.jpg


Is the rear window fix a solution for the Disco 1, and not the series 2?
 
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The Disco 2 doesnt have a window ECU... it has a BCU(body controll unit) and an IDM(intelligent drive module...this one is kmaking the windows management)......... for rear windows there is a so named "rear window lift relay" R3(the bigger one closer to the middle) and fuse F13(30A)... both in the fusebox under the steering... begin from here.
 
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I cant tell u that on the first view....if everything worked OK before then dont bother with these kind of free connectors.....they are putting the complete wiring on all cars and depending on equipments/enhancements of each modell these are connected or not.

If u want to investigate that u have to dig deep in RAVE electical library, diagrams and connector views.
 
Ok I found some fairly horrific wiring under the steering wheel:

5319354419_35dda3ff70_b.jpg


5319354305_99eb81ff67_b.jpg


The car has an aftermarket stereo so I think perhaps someone has bodged things together. I haven't a clue what does what.

I pulled the 30A fuse for the rear windows, that's fine. I also pulled the yellow relay and gave it a few sharp taps, but no joy. Is there an identical relay elsewhere on the vehicle I can swap it with, to test?

Also, the slot underneath for the IGN relay is empty. Is that normal?
 
What I found instead was two single-pole wires, and a third twin-pole cable, not connected to anything. I wonder if something has been removed, and if anyone can tell me what?

Pics:



5319894882_39d0f187e4_b.jpg


...and the three connectors. It almost looks as though the two black wires should be plugged into the yellow cable, and the combination plugged into the firewall somewhere, but I'm not going to risk that until I know exactly how it's supposed to be wired.


DON'T PLUG THEM TOGETHER :eek:


The Yellow connector is for the Passenger SRS Airbag, which I see from the pictures in your advert, that you don't have fitted to your vehicle.

The other two look like speaker connectors.

.
 
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The missing relay is supposed to feed the ignition coil( for petrol only)..... push the rear window switch and listen to the window relay if u hear any click mor something.....u can try with a relay from the engine bay one of the two big ones from the middle(R3 or R8...heated screen and headlamp powerwash)
 
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Just to make it clearer for me.....the rear windows worked well then suddenly stopped, or they didnt work from the beginning(in this case it will be harder to sort it out)
 
Nah, they've never worked. Mind you I've only had the car a couple of weeks, it was my father's and I'm selling it on my mother's behalf. I have a family interested, but it will sell better if everything is working.

I haven't yet tested for power at the console or doors, I don't want to start removing (or inadvertently breaking) trim just yet until I've tested the source.

I'm having my dinner now, will check the relay in a bit.
 
Ok I've tidied up the loose ends and closed the fusebox up, whatever the problem is it isn't the relay as I swapped it for one under the bonnet and still no joy.

I pulled back the trim surrounding the console switches, and pulled them out. Someone has been in there and played around with the wiring. I found a black earth wire wrapped around an exposed earth cable from one of the connectors, covered with insulation tape. The insulation on several of the wires into the back of the rear window switches has been stripped away, as though someone was testing for voltages, or as if they were looking for 12V. Whoever it was didn't bother to cover the exposed wires with insulation tape, so I suspect what's happened is that they've short-circuited some of those wires and buggered it up. I've taped them all closed. I also found a couple of spare connectors, I'm presuming they're for extra buttons this vehicle doesn't have?

IMG_20110103_141318.jpg


I measured for VDC and found a variety of voltages, but I'm not certain what I'm looking for. All I know is that there's power to those switches so I think the problem is further up the chain. Maybe I should check for power at the door switches?

Also, I disturbed a heavy aluminium box between the gear lever and the window switches. It doesn't appear to be secured, is this normal, or should I investigate further?

IMG_20110103_142107.jpg
 
If u have voltage at the console switch then check voltage at the rear door switch too cos the feed is passing through these to the window motor.......u are on the good path...do u have RAVE to check the diagram?
 
Ok I think I found the problem. There's power to the rear door switches, so I went to check for 12V at the motors. Here's what I found:

IMG_20110103_150624.jpg


IMG_20110103_150703.jpg


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Either Land Rover have invented the world's first invisible regulator/motor, or whoever converted it back from commercial to passenger use wasn't particularly interested in having working rear windows...

I wonder, are the doors identical (sans equipment) and would I therefore be able to retrofit the missing bits, or am I talking about a load of hassle for no gain?
 
AAAAARRRRRgHHHHH naughty job they did......I think u have everything there unless the regulator assy's to make them work...u just have to decide if u want or not to spend the money.......to installl the complete regulator assy is not so big job but they are not very cheap...i think the previous owner wanted to get rid of the car and made some extra money selling the regulators sepparately:mad:
 
Ok I've tidied up the loose ends and closed the fusebox up, whatever the problem is it isn't the relay as I swapped it for one under the bonnet and still no joy.

I pulled back the trim surrounding the console switches, and pulled them out. Someone has been in there and played around with the wiring. I found a black earth wire wrapped around an exposed earth cable from one of the connectors, covered with insulation tape. The insulation on several of the wires into the back of the rear window switches has been stripped away, as though someone was testing for voltages, or as if they were looking for 12V. Whoever it was didn't bother to cover the exposed wires with insulation tape, so I suspect what's happened is that they've short-circuited some of those wires and buggered it up. I've taped them all closed. I also found a couple of spare connectors, I'm presuming they're for extra buttons this vehicle doesn't have?

I measured for VDC and found a variety of voltages, but I'm not certain what I'm looking for. All I know is that there's power to those switches so I think the problem is further up the chain. Maybe I should check for power at the door switches?

Also, I disturbed a heavy aluminium box between the gear lever and the window switches. It doesn't appear to be secured, is this normal, or should I investigate further?

IMG_20110103_142107.jpg


I don't know what the "heavy aluminium box" is :confused: - I wouldn't touch it, just in case something elso goes wrong ;)

The unused Black and Green connectors behind the window switches are for the heated seat switches and are in the loom on all vehicles, regardless of whether or not heated seats are fitted.

I believe that Commercial DIIs started life as normal production vehicles, before being taken into LRSV's workshops to be converted into Commercials.

Part of this conversion usually included removing the window motors from the rear doors, replacing the glass with fixed, blacked-out glass and replacing the rear door and console rear window switches with blank switches, as fitted to the low-end models of the post-2002 Defender and Freelander 1.

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Just for info the aluminium box within de centre console is the airbag DCU(diagnostic and controll unit)


Aha, so that's where it is - I've never gone looking for that ;)

I alway give SRS cables/connectors a very wide berth :eek:

.
 
Hi again.

Thanks very much for all your help, I sold the car today for £3,300, to a chap who saw the ads I'd placed in the car's windows. I think that's a fair price considering its tax, mot and service are all due. He's fully aware of things like the windows, I'd made a list of every minor fault I could find (couldn't find anything major!)

My mum is very happy it's been sold now, so that's the main thing.
 
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