Galvanising parts - inner front wings?!?

I am putting some stuff into get galvanised and wondered if anyone had ever had their inner arches galvanised.

I think they did galvanise them anyway so I expect they will be fine. Mine are probably a lot thinner than they were originally so apart from a few modifications and repairs I was thinking I will put a brace across it to stop it warping.

My disco ones are 1.2mm galved.

Didn't think you could galvanise alumimium. May be wrong though. What are the relative melting temps?

yu cant - its Anodised or Alacrom'd

luckily he wants to galv steel inner wings then

Shifty1962 said:

Didn't think you could galvanise alumimium. May be wrong though. What are the relative melting temps?

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Name aluminium
FREQUENTLY ASKED QUESTIONS 24
How much heat can a galvanized coating tolerate?

Galvanized items are sometimes used for applications where the steel is subjected to either intermittent or permanent higher temperatures. Zinc has a relatively low melting point – only 420oC. When it reacts with steel to form the galvanized coating, the zinc-iron alloy that is formed has a higher melting point of around 650oC.

Zinc is also unusual among metals in that it vaporizes (turns to gas) at the relatively low temperature of around 950oC. This characteristic is used in the manufacture of zinc dust and zinc oxide.

Symbol: Al
Atomic Number: 13
Atomic Mass: 26.981539 amu
Melting Point: 660.37 °C (933.52 K, 1220.666 °F)
Boiling Point: 2467.0 °C (2740.15 K, 4472.6 °F)
Number of Protons/Electrons: 13
Number of Neutrons: 14
Classification: Other Metals
Crystal Structure: Cubic
Density @ 293 K: 2.702 g/cm3
Color: Silver
British Spelling: Aluminium
IUPAC Spelling: Aluminium

jamesmartin said:

luckily he wants to galv steel inner wings then

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That'll teach me to read the thread properly next time.

Yes, inner wings, they sort of look like a mountain made of rust - I will bash all the big flakes off and the acid will take the rest of the rust.

Before they go in my plan is to weld up the bits at the bottom that stop spray onto the bulkhead and increase the length a little, possibly as far as the crossmember to stop any water being thrown directly onto the bulkhead. I will weld on some captive nuts for the shocker access panels (I can re-tap them after galv) add a couple of little mounting points for my new air filter and they should be good to go.

My galv ones are going to get welded and re-galved soon as they are starting to rust. I wasnt going to bother bracing them, they are pretty flexible anyway so you should be able to man handle them back into shape without damaging the gav unlike a bulkhead.

Harry

That's what I think I will do - so am i right in thinking they were originally galvanised anyway? I can't tell from mine anyway!

mine are galvanised but will prob have them re-dipped when my bulkhead goes in

They came out well.

I will leave the engine bay side as bare zinc, but what about the road side? Should I etch prime them, stone chip them and satin back paint OR just leave them zinc too, I figured stone chip and or even waxoyle may help to deaden the noise a little - I might ecen glue some rubber onto the backs of them nearest the bulkhead to reduce road noise a little.

Mine was galved as original, i would leave them unpainted, cleans up good when steam cleaned when they get grubby