Chassis rust query

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Landlover99

Active Member
Posts
266
Location
Extreme North West
After hooking out several kilos of what appears to be cow dung from the mud trap areas either side of the rear of the rear wheels, I have discovered some corrosion which is worse than I'd feared. Some quite heavy flaking and pitting, but nothing actually rot right through. Most of the damage is confined to the most difficult to get at areas (partially enclosed brackets with bolts mounted close together inside all needing to be scrubbed off, but access simply horrid). Anyway, I've scraped and ground away what I can. Some still has a layer of rust; other bits are bright. I haven't time to do welding repairs this years, so bought some Jenolite to (hopefully) hold back the rust for the time being. Now I see on the instructions not to take the surface back to bright metal as it needs some rust to bond with! Should I throw the Jenolite away and just go mad with multiple coats of Hammerite, which I gather is happy to go on either type of surface?
Your thoughts, gentlemen, please...
 
As look as not completely buggered, I'd be tempted to wire brush what you can get at to remove loose stuff, jet wash, leave to dry (or dry with compressed air), spray fertan (gets where hard to reach with a brush), leave 24 hours, wash down again, dry, and then spray with dinitrol 4941 (it reaches a reasonable way into awkward spaces)

Product links below:


http://www.amazon.co.uk/Fertan-Trea...ie=UTF8&qid=1406357429&sr=8-1&keywords=fertan



2 x DINITROL 4941 UNDERBODY CHASSIS RUST PROOFING BLACK WAX 500ml Aerosol | eBay
 
Here are some pictures..... rust1.jpg

rust2.jpg

rust3.jpg

rust4.jpg

rust5.jpg
 
Doesn't look too bad t me. The situation should be retrievable with a bit of rust removal and paint/Dinitrol.

It is worth removing, cleaning and painting those struts that go from the rear crossmember to the top of the wheel arch. I discovered that new ones are over £100 each so I'm looking after mine! The tubular sections were full of water, so I've drilled little holes in the bottom of each one to help it drain out.
 
Doesn't look too bad t me. The situation should be retrievable with a bit of rust removal and paint/Dinitrol.

It is worth removing, cleaning and painting those struts that go from the rear crossmember to the top of the wheel arch. I discovered that new ones are over £100 each so I'm looking after mine! The tubular sections were full of water, so I've drilled little holes in the bottom of each one to help it drain out.

Thanks. It does look a lot better now I've Jenolited it, but those struts are definitely past their prime! I wouldn't pay silly money for what are essentially just tubes. There are plenty of steel stockholders around where you can buy mild steel tubing cheap and fab it yourself to fit. 5 mins with a mini grinder at most. I'll be heading down that road next year when I get the time to do the job properly.:)
 
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