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  #1  
Old 19th-February-2011, 12:57
joe27979's Avatar
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Default TD4 Clutch Bleed Tutorial

Hi chaps,
Having bled my defender clutch in the past and after some useful advice from some guys in this forum regarding my TD4 clutch (especially Chaser) I felt my TD4 Freelander needed similar treatment to the clutch hydraulics.

I had a new clutch master cylinder fitted recently as mines was leaking from the shaft in the footwell, it was also very loose on the foot! Replacin the master cylinder helped tighten up the feel of the pedal but it still took bite only a few mm off of the floor.

This got me thinking and onto simlar threads in this forum, if clutch fluid was leakin out of my old master cylinder then there is a chance that air would have leaked in past the same worn seals!

This is what I did step by step:
Collect all tools necessary to do the job - 13mm and 8mm spanner, big syringe, dot4 brake and clutch fluid, an old tonic bottle, a length of pastic tube, some rags and a work lamp

1.)
Put your empty bottle on the bottom radiator hose below the fans so you can see it topping up. Thread one end of your rubber tube into the bottle, all the way to the bottom!

2.)
Locate the clutch slave cylinder as it comes out of the bell housing, one leg will go to the bulkhead/master cylinder fitting and the other one will have a bleed nipple sticking out. Attach the other end of your rubber tube to this nipple

3.)
Fill your large syringe with Clutch fluid, careful - dont get it on our paintwork!!

4.)
Put an inch or so of fresh clutch fluid into your tonic bottle so that the end of the rubber hose is submerged (this stops air being drawn back into the slave cylinder)

5.)
Remove the rubber cap from your clutch master cylinder resevoir (on the bulkhead just to the right of your oil filler cap)

6.)
Looking at my fluid it looks like the new master cylinder assembly I brought had contaminated fluid - if you look closely you can see the fluid is slightly coloidal (cloudy) I suspect water contamination!!

7.)
Now, undo the 8mm bleed nipple about two turns and then go into your truck and fully press down the clutch pedal and pull it up with your hand once!

Now go and check your bottle, make sure it doesnt overflow - after each pump of the clutch i refill the master cylinder resevoir with fresh clutch fluid

On the first pump I went round and looked in the bottle and saw a few air bubbles rising to the surface, this was air from the empty tube I had fitted, after your first pump of the clutch pedal the tube should be full of fluid and the only air coming out now will be air in the hydraulic fluid.

I pumped my clutch by hand a total 0f 3 times, topping up the master cylinder each time. My tonic bottle then got too full to continue, I could have tipped it and started again but I decided to close the 8mm nipple and try the clutch.

Findings - clutch now feels super smooth and takes up bite halfway through the travel now and not just a few mm from the floor.

8.)
Have a look at your old fluid, mine clearly shows the coloidal seperation!


Hopefully this will help some of you, will try and order my pics for clarity for you now )
Attached Thumbnails
td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial-1.jpg   td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial-2.jpg   td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial-3.jpg   td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial-4.jpg   td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial-5.jpg  

td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial-6.jpg   td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial-7.jpg   td4-clutch-bleed-tutorial-8.jpg  

Last edited by joe27979; 19th-February-2011 at 13:04.
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  #2  
Old 19th-February-2011, 19:54
Chaser's Avatar
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Default Re: TD4 Clutch Bleed Tutorial

A nice explanation showing the importance of changing the fluid. Good work Joe!
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  #3  
Old 19th-February-2011, 20:19
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Red face Re: TD4 Clutch Bleed Tutorial

Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaser View Post
A nice explanation showing the importance of changing the fluid. Good work Joe!
you were my inspiration chief ;0)
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Old 20th-February-2011, 05:41
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Default Re: TD4 Clutch Bleed Tutorial

Nice one joe thanks
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Old 22nd-February-2011, 17:23
joe27979's Avatar
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Default Re: TD4 Clutch Bleed Tutorial

you're welcome Ian-hope it helps a few people out!
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Old 18th-March-2011, 18:45
mick 1986's Avatar
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Default Re: TD4 Clutch Bleed Tutorial

I have read through this twice now, and I still can't find out what to do with the 13mm spanner listed at the start?
Am I being a donut and missing something??
Cheers, Mick.
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Old 18th-March-2011, 21:37
joe27979's Avatar
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Default Re: TD4 Clutch Bleed Tutorial

lol sorry Mick. the 13mm spanner is to hold the pipe/nut so you can undo the bleed nipple without bending the pipe into the slave cylinder..put your 13mm spanner over the arrow in the pic mate and use it as a steady to undo and tighten the bleed nipple..
hope this helps
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Old 18th-March-2011, 21:55
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Magic! Thanks mate. I will be out there in the morning doing it. I hope I get a similar result to yours.
I will post back at somepoint tomorrow and let you know.
Cheers mate.
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Old 19th-March-2011, 12:27
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Well, the results of the clutch bleed is.......no change! If anything the biting point may have moved about 1/4inch up, but nothing noticeable when driving, so I guess it's a replacement job, oh well.
Cheers for the help in the bleeding procedure, I will need to do it when the clutch is changed later in the year.
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Old 19th-March-2011, 13:14
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Default Re: TD4 Clutch Bleed Tutorial

Quote:
Originally Posted by mick 1986 View Post
Well, the results of the clutch bleed is.......no change! If anything the biting point may have moved about 1/4inch up, but nothing noticeable when driving, so I guess it's a replacement job, oh well.

Cheers for the help in the bleeding procedure, I will need to do it when the clutch is changed later in the year.


I know I keep harping on about this but I would try changing the master cylinder before going for the most expensive option of replacing the clutch.

100 for a master cylinder against anything from 450 to 700 for clutch replacement.

If I was changing the slave cylinder and complete clutch assy I wouldn't want to keep an old master cylinder anyway.
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