Welcoming a new addition to the fleet

Pics!

There are no pics I put the wheel back on after I realised the smaller one wouldn't fit cos its the wrong spline size......may buy a new one tomorrow when I go in to get the V belt!

I also worked out how to set the autometer rev counter so I now have a shift light at 3000rpm but I may up it to 4500 as a redline light instead

Oh on the plus side I wired up a new switch for the speedo light as the old one was ####ed! Replaced the SWB speedo with the correct for tyre size LWB one, wired up a new indicator stalk that actually works properly and possibly fixed the fuel sender issue, took the seatbox cover off and the old earth wire wasn't connected.......haven't tested it out as it was the final job I did but if its not worked I'm just going to fit a new universal sender and a single gauge in a pod.

Need to fit the new water pump belt tomorrow so I can take it round to my mates later this week (if I have new headers by then) to fit the full straight through Oh and I need to measure up for a cubby box just so I have somewhere to put things

Dr_evil said:

I popped the steering wheel centre out today to make removing the wheel easier.......someone in the factory or last owner had scribed "you nosey f*cker" on the inside of it

Click to expand...

hahaha, classic, reading that put me in a good mood for the day

4500?!

What are you, soft?

I redline at 6k!

Hmmm 5.5k it is then I have no idea what my engine is set up like, you're on MS and have a car cam in it don't you ?

On the plus side I found out why it was hard to start the thing, turns out the old fuel filter was full of gunk and then I also decided to pull the new battery out and put in my old faithful Varta battery its got an extra 60cca on it so much better battery than the 570 that was in it.

Also used it to take some tyres in to get balanced they'll be going on it tomorrow or thursday!

looks (and sounds) great doc, what rims and tyres you got going on ? g90s are cracking off road but wear very quickly on the black stuff and get the heart going trying to stop in the wet

Sam

It'll sound better soon off to pick up some P38 exhaust manifolds tomorrow which I'll modify into full tubular headers and run into a straight pipe on either side Proper true dual system with no crossover meaning I'll get that nice uneven tickover sound

G90's have been replaced by some Goodyear Wranglers I had on modular steels, gonna paint the steels black or green before they go on though and I'll sell of the G90's on wellers not a fan of Wellers anyway!

Dr_evil said:

It'll sound better soon off to pick up some P38 exhaust manifolds tomorrow which I'll modify into full tubular headers and run into a straight pipe on either side Proper true dual system with no crossover meaning I'll get that nice uneven tickover sound

G90's have been replaced by some Goodyear Wranglers I had on modular steels, gonna paint the steels black or green before they go on though and I'll sell of the G90's on wellers not a fan of Wellers anyway!

Click to expand...

sounds like a plan, be sure to chuck up another vid when its done yeah I'm sure wellers suit some land rovers just yet to see it, got to be modulars, standard steels or wolfs like mines having (if the studs are long enough) on a series its the

I plan on having the new manifolds on it by tomorrow night (if they fit without modification) if so I'll run it off the headers for a bit and make a quick vid

After that I'll just need to buy some connector flanges and go from there, just a bog standard 2.5" outlet

Thinking I may need to angle the pipes but my mate has a stainless welder so its ok

Interesting to see how it drives on the dual headers

A lot of the time I don't know if the theorists get carried away telling you this and that when in reality it's just fine i.e. You must run a crosspipe system on a cross plane crank motor

Anyway please be take the time to analyse the midrange driving for me

Urm yes mine has a 3.9 crank in it I think, don't really know what grind it is but it's supposed to be the best of all the similar grinds and as such is the only one in production anymore

Could be a 2wd grind I'm not sure, I always revved them hard though, gets deep into the power band on the upshift that way, you know, so I can make quarters in less than 20s

Mr Noisy said:

Interesting to see how it drives on the dual headers

A lot of the time I don't know if the theorists get carried away telling you this and that when in reality it's just fine i.e. You must run a crosspipe system on a cross plane crank motor

Anyway please be take the time to analyse the midrange driving for me

Urm yes mine has a 3.9 crank in it I think, don't really know what grind it is but it's supposed to be the best of all the similar grinds and as such is the only one in production anymore

Could be a 2wd grind I'm not sure, I always revved them hard though, gets deep into the power band on the upshift that way, you know, so I can make quarters in less than 20s

Click to expand...

The P38 headers are the most free flowing stock manifold available so should give me a decent power boost over the current super restrictive P6 ones. I think they'll need some cutting and shutting but should be ok after that.

They then go into a 2.5" pipe rather than the 1.5" I have atm which is by no means big enough


Basically the idea behind the cross pipe is as such, exhaust pulses help to give a smoother flow for a little more torque gain and a more uniform noise, without it you get that nice offset idle and lose a little torque but gain some HP. Given that I have more than enough torque at the minute the free flowing exhaust should cancel the header gains out and see me somewhere close to where I am at the minute

The cross pipe is there to induce scavenging in the bank which has just endured a 2 cycle gap in firing

The purpose is to keep header gas pressure up at low rpms thus as you say increasing torque

It is not sacrificial to bhp using an H pipe, one could imagine a Y pipe would be

The fact that you are bolting 4.6 headers onto a 3.5 which have very large primaries and esoevially without a cross pipe of any sort would lead me to believe you will have a noticeable lack in torque at the low end, but with added willingness to rev harder at the top.

If she has p6 headers does she have p6 heads?

That would be a big problem if it has an edelbrock inlet and p38 headers.

In all honesty I've not checked....I may go out and have a look at the serial number on the engine now! That'd give me an indication at least


although I'm sure the reason he's used P6 manifolds is down to the lack of space in the bay


Not sure I understand the problem with an edelbrock intake system and P38 headers though ? Do explain

If it's got edelbrock inlet and p38 headers, p6 heads are gonna be a huge restriction on your breathing, as ERC2016/SD1 heads were much better!

Pop a rocker cover, the casting number is under there

Its an SD1 engine just been out and looked at the engine number so 9.35:1 compression ratio. The manifolds are just there for space issues

Its an 11A engine code

Sweet

Modified P38 manifolds it is should help it breathe and set off the intake side nicely

Yeah man fo sho, I'm mainly interested to see how it feels, I expect you'll lose some crispness on the throttle low end

Personally I'm an rpms guy, life begins at 3k

My gearing kinda makes up for it but yes I'll see how it goes. Looking at the manifolds the P38 ones may actually be a straight fit on the passenger side after looking at the engine bay.

May just be a case of cranking the drivers side one so it goes straight down 90* instead of down at a 75* ish angle

Collected the manifolds, one has a hairline crack in it on the weld so got £10 knocked off and dropped them at the local metal shop to have it welded up as I cant weld stainless at home

Will have them back on friday so I can start the exhaust then