Series 3 FFR tips

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Yes the channels for the Glass are separate if just buying the top framework and not a fully glazed door regards Chris


Cheers Chris.

I suppose my next question has been asked a thousand times but, can I put benches in the back? I assume that it would have had operators seats in it when it was sold by the MOD.

Jim
 
Right so today I spent a good few hours looking at the engine. I drained down the petrol tank. The fuel had turned day glow yellow! Next looked for a fuel filter, there isn't one.

I removed the glass bulb from the fuel pump and have it a good clean. Off to motex for an oil filter and some oil. My mate was coming round this afternoon, he's also mechanic and a part owner as we are going 3 ways on this project.

I drained the oil before he came and when he got here he replaced the oil filter and filled her up. Then the big moment. With 2 gallons of good fuel we tried to start her.

Nothing. I'd tried priming the pump but to no avail, maybe I was doing something wrong. Took the bulb off, filled it with petrol and refitted it and pumped like a man possessed. Nothing. Ash tried whilst I turned the crank to see it the crank was in the wrong position, nothing. We sucked, blew, hand cranked it, turned the key, nout!

Next Ash cleaned the points and still nothing.

We noticed that when pumping the primer we could hear air sucking somewhere. So after a few hours of pumping, cleaning, sucking and what not we've come to the conclusion that a seal must have gone in the fuel pump.

So next on the shopping list is a new fuel pump, HT leads, Dis cap and rotor arm.
 
Check the fuel pick up pipe in the tank has a fine gauze filter on the end which can block.
If you remove the pump outlet pipe and then pump to test it if tyhat ok do same at carb end.
 
Check the fuel pick up pipe in the tank has a fine gauze filter on the end which can block.
If you remove the pump outlet pipe and then pump to test it if tyhat ok do same at carb end.


We tried pumping with the pipe from pump to carb removed at the pump end and nothing came out of the pump. Is that what you mean?
 
Also does anyone recognise these ignition parts

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ImageUploadedByTapatalk1415742033.985189.jpg

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1415742049.235075.jpg

Cheers

Jim
 
Are they 24 or 12v? The spark plugs that came out were Bosch W7DC plugs, which are just 12v plugs.
 
Gave all the points a good clean and replaced the plugs yesterday. Also replaced the fuel pump as we were getting no fuel up from the tank.

With all that done we tried priming again, still nothing. We worked back to the tanks and found that the cork gasket in the brass tank selector had blocked the lines.

We managed to bypass the tap and low and behold she starts, if you have delicate ears turn the sound down ;-)

https://vimeo.com/112119209

A joyous occasion. Found out that the cork washer that goes for £6.50 on only one land rover spares website is the same from a ferguson TE20 tractor and found one for AA quid.

So next up is clutch Master and Slave cylinder, new hoses for the cooling system and then we can move on to brakes and welding and getting her water tight. Managed to pick up a tank for the passengers side in vgc plus two seats for £50.

Here's a pic of team Daisy hard at work. Our total spend including the car, delivery and all parts stands at £800. Hopefully we can bring this all in at just over £1000

Jim

ImageUploadedByTapatalk1416267858.825773.jpg
 
Looking good! Did better than me I couldnt find a cork gasket for the switch so gave up and just fitted a single tank system instead ;)

Excellent stuff keep the updates coming!
 
Hey all

Started to dismantle the clutch pedal and M.cylinder assembly tonight ready to swap them over. All was well but I can't seem to slacken off the union joint that connects to the top of the cylinder.

Anyone got any tips on getting it undone without rounding the nut off?

Also where can I get the correct bulbs for the main beam headlights?

Cheers

Jim
 
I dont know if this will help chap but I first removed the clutch pipe itself then the larger nut below it after warming them gently with my blow torch.

Is the stud below resting on the body of the joint or is it just the angle you have taken the photo?
 
Can you undo the other end of the pipe and run a ring spanner up it? You've less chance of rounding the nut.
Last time I got a sealed beam unit it was about a fiver from my local motor factor but you can get some interesting variants here
Lighting for vintage & classic cars
 
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