Series 3 County restoration

update
made some repairs to the rear door where it had cracked and patched up the frame. Also painted tub cross members fitted exhaust brackets and started on the front bumper.
Now the family debate is on what colour to spray it.
Cheers

Great to see your progress. I've an similar '74 model and am about to start sorting the back end of the chassis.
For stabilizing rust I'm using a converter off fleabay (see below). Painting the lot in red oxide is a great idea. Going to try and protect the inside of the chassis when I cut off the back end; a messy challenge I think.



Thanks!

Grantstew8 said:

Great to see your progress. I've an similar '74 model and am about to start sorting the back end of the chassis.
For stabilizing rust I'm using a converter off fleabay (see below). Painting the lot in red oxide is a great idea. Going to try and protect the inside of the chassis when I cut off the back end; a messy challenge I think.

Thanks!

Click to expand...

i rebuilt my chassis (cut off the rear crossmember, gutted and rebuilt the dumb irons and cut out and replaced any other rot) then once i'd completed my painting i used a shutz gun to vapourise a gallon of thinned waxoyl into the inside of my chassis, i still see evidence of it around drain holes two years later

i also vapourised a litre or two into all the cavities in my bulkhead

hey, well done for getting stuck in!

have a bit more practice with welding first though, you don't want to be unsafe or have to do it again

your welds look like they lack penetration, up your heat or slow your weave/wire, etc

just play on 2mm scrap for a little.

btw are you running on gas? argon/co2 mix?

Welding - The DIY Guide if you haven't seen it before

Hi All
Thanks for the posts I have managed to get hold of some PVC paint for the head lining that has been smoke damaged will post the results later in the thread.
Grantstew/NiteMare
I tried a rust inhibitor from Cromwell tools
(LPS 3 HEAVY DUTY RUST INHIBITOR 377ml)
It has been sprayed into to chassis where I could not paint in hope it seals the rust.
Trax
Thanks for the advice on the welding I have posted a picture after some practice. Dr Nitemare said to up the heat in the weld so had a practice and although not perfect was better. I also have drilled and taped the cross member/ fish plate and bolted them in place. The bolts help with the joints strength and before the bolt goes in you can spray the inside of the welds with rust inhibitor.
Had a look at the back brake and need a new cylinder still trying to get the screw out of the other side.
Cheers

Update
Thought I would have a quick job removing and replacing the wheel cylinder but turned out the brake pipe had welded its self in so new one required. After a fight removed the countersunk screw the other side and its looks ok.
Cheers

Weekend proved to be slow progress, had a good day fishing with my son and a classic car show. Managed to replace the back wheel cylinder and brake pipe, bled them and started to rub the doors down for paint. I did find that large amounts of filler has been used on the doors, but let’s face it Landrovers are best not too straight. So will flat off and leave the dents and twists as they are.
Cheers

they don't look bad at all

Thanks
Not sure if to take off all the capping and paint silver or keep it all the same colour? We have been looking at Grey or dark blue for the bottom half
Cheers

iirc there is some cold galv paint people have used in resto threads to good effect for the cappings

might be called "galvafroid"

Update
Did a little more paint prep on the back door handle area front panel and the bulkhead. Lucky the metal behind the vent seals was all good. The door handle aperture is not the easiest areas to clean-up but after while got it to primer stage, not sure how I am going to get the spray gun into all the tight spots though. I used a can to prime it.
I have tried cellulose primer on the doors but it is lifting the edges of the filler so looking like may need to go for 2K paint and primer or sealer primer, any thoughts.
Honolulujoe
Will have a look into the galvafroid have tied a galv spray on other parts and it does not seem very tough.
Cheers

can't remember whose resto thread had some pics of it, shiny to start with but then goes a nice chalky grey

Update
Tried a glav spray on the windscreen frame, found that because it had been previously painted with a white paint it reacted causing the paint to crack. Looking for a primer sealer now and re-rub down.
Cheers

Update
Found a sealer primer and bought an etch primer for the bare ali areas. Also started on the bonnet, looks in good condition for it age. Went over the windscreen frame and will use the sealer on it before silver paint. Gave the bulk-head rust patches a coat of rust killer as well.
Cheers

no point cold galving it if it isn't bare metal

Thanks found out the hard way. Will use a silver wheel spray next time.

Update
Cleaned up the sills ready for paint and brought the tub indoors to have a look at the work needed. The cross supports have rotted out and I have replacements ready for fitting but once removed I found the floor (ali) has also dissolved along with the strengthens. Will be looking to replace the whole floor!!
Cheers

Update
Cut out the old tub floor and fabricated a replacement, used 19mm x 19mm 16gauge box and roofing bolts for the top hat sections. I have etch primed the aluminium ready for paint. Just need to seal the perimeter and pop rivet it in place. Will have to make up some smaller patches for seat fixings and the tub fixing that have rotted.
Cheers

Update
Managed to fix and seal the new tube floor and make a few repairs to the seat fixings and tube fixings. It’s all the little jobs that seem to take time!! We have chosen a dark grey for the body colour and will be painting the tube bottom in it soon.
Cheers