Just incase you think I've been sat on me arse doing nowt for the past few weeks, today I finished the gearbox rebuild........ I hope. I'll put the pics up in a few days, if I survive my surgery and stay in hospital.........I hope.

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"When non-enforcable encouragement was made for such aforementioned non gender specific individual to cleanse his nether parts, hithertoaforementioned non gender specific individual returned with shit (this is anything goes) upon the physiognomy" - nonmetalspecificmidriffbone pertaining to the likeness of a non-identifiable generic "acquaintance"

"If you told him to wipe his poochute he would come back with poopoo on his face....." Tinribs referring to a work "friend".

Well, I survived not only the surgen, but also the dried blood and shit encrusted floor of the room that the last patient and NHS had left for me.
Anyway, I looked around for gearbox parts and it appeared buying individual bits from the usual outlets was going to be more expensive than buying some of the kits I had seen advertised. I'm sure I could have saved more money by buying the bearings and seals from local firms that the farm uses (and hopefully get a discount) but I didn't then want the hassel of ordering every last little shim, o ring and spring on their own.
One firm didn't even respond to my email about the rebuild kit they advertised, so I won't be sending them much business. It really does baffle me how some companys turn a blind eye to people keen to be their customers. Maybe they're making enough money already?
I then spotted Land Rover Engine Gearbox Steering Brake Parts advertising parts and kits for all types of transmissions. I had a look round their confusing website but could not see a kit for a series gearbox. So I sent them an email and very soon had a reply that they hadn't sold a series kit for so long they weren't on the website or in stock, but that they would be happy to put me a kit together. A few days later, they emailed to say the kit was ready if I wanted it. I put the order in at 3pm, and it was on my doorstep at 08.30 the next morning. The total price was a few pence less than the other company that ignored my request was advertising its kit for before a big lump of vat and delivery were added. Good service for once.

However, it was a couple of weeks later I found that my gearbox was fitted with the small layshaft bearing and I'd been sent the later large one. Bugger!
I think there is some evidence to suggest that my gearbox has had some tinkering done to it before and is prehaps a bit of a bitza so maybe the serial number on the outside didn't match what was inside.

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"When non-enforcable encouragement was made for such aforementioned non gender specific individual to cleanse his nether parts, hithertoaforementioned non gender specific individual returned with shit (this is anything goes) upon the physiognomy" - nonmetalspecificmidriffbone pertaining to the likeness of a non-identifiable generic "acquaintance"

"If you told him to wipe his poochute he would come back with poopoo on his face....." Tinribs referring to a work "friend".

how much was the kit - and what's included mr tinman ?

Price please and is yours a series 2 box ie no syncro-mech on 1st and 2nd ?

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Talk softly and carry a big hammer.
Guy Fawkes your country need's you!!

My gearbox is the series 2 type that is non-syncro between 1st and 2nd, although the kit that was sent to me contained parts for a fully syncro box. I gave them the number I found on the gearbox casing which is 06107554, anyone know if that is the correct number for such a gearbox? Prehaps they sell one kit to cover both boxes or something, or just buggered up?
I bought a gearbox kit, a transfer box kit, a gasket kit to cover both boxes, and a replacement mainshaft nut, all for around £148 including VAT and P&P. The other kit I saw advertised was £150 BEFORE Vat and P&p were added on.
Off the top of my head, the gearbox kit included; primary pinion bearing, front mainshaft roller bearing, mainshaft main ball bearing, front layshaft bearing (too big for my box), rear layshaft bearing, 3rd/4th syncro hub springs X3, 3rd & 2nd gear brass sleeve, thrust washer, split ring, layshaft bearing retainer lock tab (too big for my box), mainshaft oil seal, oilseal (not used, prehaps for later type clutch release?), seals for selector shafts, selector shaft detent springs, reverse selector gate springs. The kit also had 2 brass syncro cones which I presume are for 1st/2nd on a later gearbox, i'll have to sell them to my mate, or buy a s111.
The transfer box kit contained; rear mainshaft roller bearing, intermediate gear roller bearing X2, main output shaft bearing, rear output shaft bearing, front output shaft bearing, intermediate gear thrust washers X2, front and rear output oilseals, speedo oilseal, mainshaft thrust washer and locktab, dtent spring, various o ring seals, output shaft washer and felt seal.
The gasket kit covered both boxes.
Like I said before, I'm sure I could have sourced the bearings cheaper from companies the farm deals with, but the bearings in the kit appear to be of the better makes and not the cheaper alternatives that are available.

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"When non-enforcable encouragement was made for such aforementioned non gender specific individual to cleanse his nether parts, hithertoaforementioned non gender specific individual returned with shit (this is anything goes) upon the physiognomy" - nonmetalspecificmidriffbone pertaining to the likeness of a non-identifiable generic "acquaintance"

"If you told him to wipe his poochute he would come back with poopoo on his face....." Tinribs referring to a work "friend".

Before the mainshaft could be built up, I had to check the end float of the 2nd and 3rd gears. As a new brass sleeve was fitted (two piece as opposed to the original one piece), the end float was too little as the sleeve was a little too long. This was corrected by rubbing down the ends of the sleeve on a facing plate covered with fine emery paper until the correct end float could be achieved. The gear assembly was then held in place with a new split ring.
I also replaced the springs in the 3rd/4th gear syncro hub by pushing the old ones out with a scewdriver and feeding the new ones in. It was only once the old ones were out that the wear on them could be seen, and how much more powerful the new ones were in action.

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"When non-enforcable encouragement was made for such aforementioned non gender specific individual to cleanse his nether parts, hithertoaforementioned non gender specific individual returned with shit (this is anything goes) upon the physiognomy" - nonmetalspecificmidriffbone pertaining to the likeness of a non-identifiable generic "acquaintance"

"If you told him to wipe his poochute he would come back with poopoo on his face....." Tinribs referring to a work "friend".

You should be fine as Long as you respect you have an Open Petrol tank for when you are welding the chassis (If you are). Well if you do ever need to carry out some work what involves sparks or excessive heat, Throw a cold wet towel over the tank. Also when you take the Filler and breather pipe off. Pop a Durex over the Filler tube of the tank (Ribbed or not doesnt matter ) And Probably best to leave the breather open.. just get a plastic bag cut a piece off and cover the breather tube up and wrap an elastic band around it and piece the plastic that way it can still breeth but not get any shite in the tank when working

Great pics. Am inspired and daunted in equal measures! Though it must be said i'm truly envious at the facilities you have. Can only just squeeze the truck cab roof into my tiny London garden!

Excellent thread. My son has been given a series 2a '71 by his uncle. Everything about it is fine apart from the dreaded chassis rot. Will be watching this develop as time goes on.

Hi great to see photos as I'm planning to do a rebuild. Try mortuary gloves they are like heavy duty surgical gloves, quite tough and still allow you to feel what's going on unlike heavy rubber chemical resistant ones.