Please help with my brakes.

Hello all,
New to this forum, I don't normally ask for help but I am feeling thoroughly defeated I have searched on google a lot etc before people ask.

Series III 1977 SWB had it 6 months now, I had some brake grinding noises and some loss of efficiency so checked and os front and ns rear hub seal gone ns front leading shoe through to metal.

Bought hud seals new axle breathers 4 wheel cylinders (delphi) pads all round new flexible hoses (britpart) and had some copper pipe and connectors for the hard lines. Days later I still cannot get the spongyness out of the pedal which still goes to the floor.

I have set the pedal to 6 1/8" 155mm any further and I will have to move the brake light plate or tweak the adjuster for it, the floor may not be at exactly the original height either. I think I am happy with the free play.

I have bled it the old fashioned way pumping with the front on ramps and used a gunson pressure bleed kit.

Main thrust of why I am on here!!!
Which way round are the brake back plates supposed to be? The snail cam on mine are towards the rear of the vehicle so I think the springs and trailing/leading shoes might be the wrong way around.

ANY suggestions are welcome and thanks in advance.

You are about to get jumped on from a great height by the post police

So to prevent that, please go to the intro section and tell us a bit about yourself, and you will find that all of your questions will be answered

A bit of etiquette goes a long, long way on here

Snail adjusters to the front mate rear shoe is classed as trailing shoe you might need to champer trailing shoe top edges if you find brakes are binding in reverse excessively.

Bleed them with pistons fully in, or use vac bleeder from compressor. Air gets trapped otherwise.

Thanks for the replies.

Sorry for the lack of into just trying to get this finally bloody done I want to be able to go to work again I'm a self employed tree's person so no transport no money.

The info helps a bit thanks, I am now in the process of swapping around all the back plates so the shoes wear properly, probably what caused the massive uneven wear on the ns front. They must have been like that for some time because all the wheel cylinders had rusted so bad the nuts needed to be removed with the old cold chisel, might even go a little better without the brakes dragging.

I have tried all the bleeding tricks but maybe something to do with the back plates and springs being wrong and lifting the front end leaves bubbles in the front piston?

Any more tricks for bleeding are welcome hopefully I will be back at that stage in about another hour.