Fuel getting everywhere but wont start without help :-(

OK so I have soerted the half shaft issue (only too about a month),,, and now have a new Problem, she wont start

OK the fuel was rank so fresh was put in and the sedimenter cleaned, new fuel filter and hose right up to the webber carb... Back filed everything and tipped a cap full of fuel into the top of the carb.... She Fired,,,, She Stopped... etc

Fuel is getting to the carb, and if you put fuel in the carb it runs (not for long). If you put a syringe on the fuel line you can even (with a bit of umph) get it into the carb, and she runs,,, but not for long. the fuel line is pressuring up (I got a face full when i took the pipe off) but its not making its way into the carb...

Any suggestions,

Thanks Andy

Maybe a clogged or stuck needle valve.

West Slope Rover said:

Maybe a clogged or stuck needle valve.

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OK I'm looking to see how deep inside the needle valve is, would I need to pull the carb to get to it or can it be done on the engine? (maybe a over hall kit?)

Would it be quicker and a better long term bet to change the whole carb, i see Mr Craddock offers a after market carb for £33 oe a new webber doe around £110 inc vat?

Thanks Andy

What carb has it got?

its a webber 34 ich ??

A broken one :-(

Overhaul kit. You can strip them down and clean them out without the kit if you're lucky and don't stuff up the gasket, Plenty of exploded diagrams on the net. Always better to remove the carb first, clean the outside thoroughly and then strip and rebuild somewhere clean. I do this inside a cut up cardboard box - produces a clean area and there's less chance of bits pinging off and never being seen again.....

oxides said:

Overhaul kit. You can strip them down and clean them out without the kit if you're lucky and don't stuff up the gasket, Plenty of exploded diagrams on the net. Always better to remove the carb first, clean the outside thoroughly and then strip and rebuild somewhere clean. I do this inside a cut up cardboard box - produces a clean area and there's less chance of bits pinging off and never being seen again.....

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ok so i can order a kit and I'm sure I can take bits off and pit other bits on,,,, but is there any setting up or adjustment that's needed after the rebuild? I'm very tight on time thats why i was considering the Replacment route... ???

If you've got the dosh, buy a new one and rebuild the old one at your leisure.

its not so much having the dosh its not having the time..... can get an after market carb Click Here for about £45 and i guess it comes all set up... MOT just round the corner so need her running for that as shes parked on the road.... Any one had a after marker carb and anyone got any comments??

Thanks Guys

Andy

Depends on the aftermarket carb in my opinion. A cheap Chinese knockoff will likely warp on you after a few tens of thousands of miles, and will likely never run right.

Take the top cover off the 34ICH and clean the needle valve. it's not at all difficult. While you're there, spray some carb cleaner through the brass "screws" in the bottom of the bowl - those are the idle and run jets. Clean out any sediment in the bottom of the bowl at the same time.

34ICH carbs aren't the best for a Land-Rover - the throat's a bit small for the displacement off the engine - but they do run well. I have one on my 2.25-converted 54 Series I - starts right up and runs well every time.

To clean out the needle valve (in case you want to know) pull the pin that the float pivots on and lift the float straight up. The pin for the needle valve should come with it - if not just remove it. Blow carb cleaner through it and wipe down the needle. I'm trying to emember if the 34ICH has an input filter - if it does you might try cleaning that before disassembling the carburettor {rummages t'internet...} Ah. Yes, it does. The brass nut underneath the fuel intake is a filter screen - might well be clogged if your fuel went off.

Don't be afraid of the 34ICH - it's a good carb both to work on and a reliable runner if set up properly for a 2.25.

Alan

Also check that the floats are set right and not jamming - there's plenty of guides on the internet about how to do it.

D

There really isn't any setup to do - just the idle mixture (2 1/2 turns out is pretty close) and the tickover revs.

yer best bet is the carb off an old sierra a webber 32/36 DGAVV theyre endlessly easy to tune up and mess with and so simple any bugger can suss them out

all sorted for now. got an after market job and will rebuild the webber later....

thanks for the help and advice

Andy

johnny curt 1 said:

yer best bet is the carb off an old sierra a webber 32/36 DGAVV theyre endlessly easy to tune up and mess with and so simple any bugger can suss them out

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wondering if that would fit a series 1, 2 litre

I like the DMTL for a land rover - plenty of power for top end heavy foot but only uses one small barrell when you're pottering off-road so lots of control.

I've got a DGAV I was going to try somewhere I can't remember why I gave up on the idea (other than it being a bit seized) I think I got stalled making a conversion plate.

The DMTL and DGAV both benefit from using the defender manifolds on a S3/2 not sure how you'd mate it up to a S1 you'd need to do some butchery to the manifold I suspect.

cuts me out then it would need to be a straight swap off with the old and on with the new, then I could have a go at a refurb on the old one. seen an s1 2 litre solex carb ready refurbished but the guy wants £200 for it