Fuel bleeding problems 2.25 D

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adh

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39
I'm hopefully just about getting my 2.25 Diesel series 3 completed after a rebuild starting from a million boxes of bits.

I have a 5 bearing 2.25 which I've completely rebuilt as new, but just chucked the old pump/distributor on as was.

I bled fuel through to the two distributor bleed points by hand pumping, but with the injector pipes off I can't get any fuel out of the pump outlets.

Turning the engine on the starter brings no fuel out of the outlet ports either?

All other return spill pipes etc are connected up and I'm pretty sure everything is the right way round from the manual and looking at pictures on the net.

Should I be able to prime fuel through and if so have I got a problem with my injector pump?
 
my old one was a maaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaare to prime.

if you have an oil extractor, try pulling the fuel up via the spill rail, or just lots and lots of cranking will get it going. or a tow start or again a bit of wd40 in the inlet if you feel wild :D

if you crank, you'll need another vehicle to jump it.. also take breaks between cranks so you don't overheat it.
 
stop cable isn't set up yet, but lever is sprung down....which is for running right? stop cable would pul it up as far as I can see.
 
Have you tried cranking with the injector unions cracked open ? This has never failed me, once some fuel shows tighten two of them start the engine and then tighten the last two.
Best of luck, let us know how you get on.
 
As I said, I tried with the injector unions slackened from the start.
There are no injector pipes on at all now and there's still no sign of fuel coming out on manual pump or cranking.

But I have fuel at the bleed points on the filter and on distributor pump.:confused:
 
do a search for Smithies landrover will bring up a NZ website should be a CAV DPA manual available there .
The plungers can sieze people have got them to move with a light tap with hammer on casing in that area.
I believe that pump is also driven by a quill shaft which is designed to snap if pump seized.
 
they can be a problem, i have just had the same, think you will find that these pumps need to be standing for years before they seize up, you will need to put the pipes back on the pump,and leave them disconnected from the injectors, bleed the pump as you have done with the 2 bleed points and crank the engin till you see spurt from the ends of the pipes it may take a good few cranking, then reconnect the pipes up and within a couple of cranks she should now start to show signs of firing, you need a good battery for this
 
seriously, as said before, just get a jump start from another vehicle and start cranking it'll fire after a while or tow start if impatient.
 
I had a spare pump that looked the grotiest out of the two.

Took the fitted pump of last night and drove it with the spline by hand, nothing from the injector ports.

Did the same with the spare (also been stood for years) and bubles of diesel where coming out of the ports.

Hence it looks like there's something knackered in the first pump.

Fitted the 2nd pump and got it to stage of diesel spurting out of ports on turn-over.

Just need to fit new injector pipe now as olive's fallen off old one.

Fingers crossed I'll have a chance then!
 
Pipes went on last night.
Waited for fuel to seep from the injector threads and nipped them up.
Cranked it for about 10 second or so a couple of times and then it spluttered into life.

Job's a gud 'n'!
 
Worth keeping the faulty one soaking in diesel to see if the plungers free up. If not strip HP end and free them must keep it clean.
 
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