fitting overdrive

might actually try and fit the overdrive I have had in the garage for 5 years.

need to get a gasket set first.

thought I would try it with the front on ramps so I did that, but it seems the od is closer to the back than the front so I might be better sticking the back on ramps to give a bit more space underneath or do people manage it without needing to lift one end


don't seem to have the pin that goes through the lever to hold the selector onto the actual od - have the one that holds the two levers together - would a clevis pin do?

I've fitted a couple in the past and I've always took middle panel off seat box and worked from above you can just about stand in there if needed.
As for the pin issue if it fits and holds securely then don't see a problem.

excellent thx, I just assumed you would offer the overdrive to the box from underneath, will just do it all thru the middle

>>>clevis pin

That depends on what you call a Clevis pin.

People keep calling ordinary split pins Cotter pins or Clevis pins (Cotter & Clevis were their inventors/manufacturers) and it drives me nuts!!

PedantsRUs but for very good reasons.....

well I don't know, I have a few that I bought - described as clevis pins - its a solid metal bit with a rounded or flat head on one end which stops that bit going through a hole the other end sticks out of said hole and you pass another bit - essentially a piece of metal bent together - through a hole in the pin and bend the ends to stop it coming out and that stops the pin going back through the hole.

I will probably order the right bit from auto4parts eventually which seem to have it or see if I can find a bolt with a castle nut and pin from somewhere.

on the fitting front I have had the middle panel out and there does seem to be plenty of room. I assume my s1 has had an overdrive before as someone has cut a hole in the gearbox tunnel cover in just the right place for the selector lever and covered it with a bit of ali riveted in place, presumably when they removed the overdrive.

so I shall get the gaskets and see if I can do it over the next couple of weeks.

Don't forget that I have mainshaft nut tool if you need one. Postage is around £6

divie said:

Don't forget that I have mainshaft nut tool if you need one. Postage is around £6

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you have one for sale?

"You have one for sale"

Hmmm maybe. I made 4 from EN24T steel sent one to Robin (RMS) in Wakefield and one to Snailer in the Sale/Manchester area to help the folks out up North. No charge for the use but I did ask for a £20 returnable deposit to ensure others could use them.
I do not think many have been loaned out and I still have 2 here in South Staffs so would be willing to let one go.
Postage as stated is around £6 PM an offer if you want one. They are like the Ebay jobbies with 1/2" square drive and 30 mm hexagon.

thx for the offer, might take you up on it, I thought I read somewhere you just tap the locking nut with a hammer and screwdriver on the passengers side a few times and it will loosen by hand. then on the drivers side to tighten it.

Just tap the nut ! Yes it does work but tighten to 85 lbs ? That is why so many come loose and why I made tools for folk to borrow.

ah

thx for the heads up, that is a useful bit of info, read a couple of how to's with pix and neither mentioned that or if they did I didn't clock it.

will probably drop you a line when I am close to it.

with the middle panel removed everything looks crusty, years of crud and ****e so I shall clean everything up and give the chassis round there a good coating with fertan and dinitrol

Surely if the tab washer is in place and correctly bent over the mainshaft nut cannot come loose? Never had any problems with any of mine.

BTW You can use RTV or blue hylomar instead of gaskets, makes a perfect seal.

Ads

It can shear the tab washer and come loose, had it on mine.

Did use a punch and chisel once but came loose so made up a tool by welding a socket to a bit of scaffold pole and notching the pole for the castellations

must have been cheaper than buying one of these for £80

HNJ Engineering - Series Land Rover Parts - Land Rover Special Tool 600300 - Land Rover Gearbox Overdrive Mainshaft Nut Tool

I am sure the answer to this is no, I realise one is supposed to use ep40 in the overdrive, but I have a fair bit of atf spare and was wondering if I could stick it in the od and gearbox?

honolulujoe said:

I am sure the answer to this is no, I realise one is supposed to use ep40 in the overdrive, but I have a fair bit of atf spare and was wondering if I could stick it in the od and gearbox?

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That's a NO mate

I knew you would say that

bugger, have to find somewhere else to stick it

thx for the reply btw

blasted all the crap off the box and chassis and gave a good coating in fertan

looks like the chassis was once green.

ordered the gaskets and ep90, can't decide whether to buy that hnj eng tool or not

Series 1 chassis where normally painted green same as the body.

got fed up waiting for the gaskets and ep90 so I fitted the bracket for the lever.

I am sure there has been an od on this car before, maybe the po kept it or it bust. all the bolts undo with no effort and there is a badly cut hole in the gearbox tunnel, although the piece of ali riveted over the hole was perfectly round the hole itself isn't, not to say I would have done a better job if I did the hole myself.

also splashed out for the hnj engineering tool for the castellated nut, and bought one of their supposedly superior and overspec'd nuts.

having some problems with the lever, the pivot bolt seems to have rusted in so I am soaking that part of the lever in penetrating oil to see if it will shift.

secondly the clip that holds the clevis pin that keeps the two halves of the lever together has rusted in, the ends just broke off, so will have to source a new one. Funny how some expectedly minor part of a job causes the most problems.