First Post

Hi there, hope you can help me, I have a series 3 and was driving yesterday when smoke came through light switch on dash, since have lost dipped and side lights, I changed switch with interior light switch but still no joy I might as that I still have full beams and rear lights. Any suggestions?!

Presumably by interior light switch you mean the dash illumination? It's a different sort of switch, 2 position as opposed to 3. Smoke may imply you've burnt out some wiring somewhere - time for some serious multimeter and wiring diagram work.

Hmmm, Time to replace the indicator/dip switch and fit relays. The aftermarket switches are crap and need relays to make them last. The two position heater switch is similar to the main side/headlight switch, try and find a genuine Lucas one as once again the pattern ones are dodgy. As Oxides says time for multimeter and wiring check.

Standard series wiring has very little fuse protection so it's best to put your own in. For powerful things like headlights then it's best to use relays to take the load off the switch, they're not that complicated once you look at a diagram.

Thanks guys, oxides was spot on regarding the switch, not correct switch for main lights and also looks like a poor after market switch. By chance the previous owner passed on parts to me and I managed to find a the correct Lucas switch definitely gonna run this off a relay, will keep you posted! On another note has anybody any advice on getting top of passenger door to close tighter, there is a small bit of light coming in and a hell of a lot of wind noise, seals are good in general.

Check that the top half of the door is not loose. Its held in by two bolts that come down thru the bottom half. If its wobbly' the nuts may need tightened. The top half of the door sholud angle inwards slightly looking at it in profile to achieve wind tight fit.

I used a strip of thin rubber on top of the normal capping door top seal to create more of an angled profile on my near side door. It was just enough to make the difference needed at the top to close against the seal. Before I did this a simple 'bodge' worked which involved placing a strip of self adhesive rubber window/ door draft excluder on the actual door top so it closed against the seal tightly.

Land Raver said:

I used a strip of thin rubber on top of the normal capping door top seal to create more of an angled profile on my near side door. It was just enough to make the difference needed at the top to close against the seal. Before I did this a simple 'bodge' worked which involved placing a strip of self adhesive rubber window/ door draft excluder on the actual door top so it closed against the seal tightly.

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good idea that, i have about a 3mm gap at the top that whistles at speed.....

Good call Land raver, was the rubber you used on top of the door an after market product? Hope something like this works because the gap is big enough a friend of mine pulled the door inwards at the top as we drive last weekend and it made a substantial difference to road noise etc...!!

Jasper74 said:

Good call Land raver, was the rubber you used on top of the door an after market product? Hope something like this works because the gap is big enough a friend of mine pulled the door inwards at the top as we drive last weekend and it made a substantial difference to road noise etc...!!

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It was just a strip of rubber seal I had that I found in my garage - not a specific Land Rover item, something that I probably originally purchased from Seals Direct possibly. about 2-3mm thick and 1cm in width if I remember right.