Defender heater matrix

I run my double matrix in series:- Inlet too nearest the bulkhead matrix then the cooler water to the outer one.
The theory being that the cold air is initially warmed by the outer one and then further heated by the inner one.
Seems to work a treat.

Blackburn said:

I run my double matrix in series:- Inlet too nearest the bulkhead matrix then the cooler water to the outer one.
The theory being that the cold air is initially warmed by the outer one and then further heated by the inner one.
Seems to work a treat.

Click to expand...

that makes sense, I wouldn't have thought about that, I would have just stuck it on the first one that came to hand.

iirc the pictures on that web page I first saw a year or two ago was in series, can't remember which was the hot in. been looking for that page but can't seem to find it now.

I run my double matrix in series:- Inlet too nearest the bulkhead matrix then the cooler water to the outer one.
The theory being that the cold air is initially warmed by the outer one and then further heated by the inner one.
Seems to work a treat.

Click to expand...

It would be interesting to know the temperature difference between inlet and outlet at max temperature and full tilt on the blower. If the temp difference is large (10-30 deg C) you could probably benefit from running them parallel and it would also indicate that the water pump isn't up for the job. If the temp diff is smaller than say 10 degrees you've got plenty of flow, and you should look for the bottle neck elsewhere. For instance the airflow through the matrix.

My guess: there's probably only a couple of deg C between inlet and outlet.

honolulujoe said:

I wouldn't have thought flow would be an issue, like I even know what I am talking about , I don't recall it ever being mentioned by anyone that did the mod.

I would be interested in knowing if there was any empirical data on how much one could add in terms of extra pipework etc before one needs a stronger water pump, sometime in the autumn I intend to add a smiths flatty to the tubs of both the s1 and s3 for heating support

Click to expand...

Don't got any data but my guess is that it's plenty powerful. Think about how much more water that pump moves around than your average domestic circulator. :flame:

I think there's flow to heat a house if you want. Who's first to try it out??

Nillevang said:

Don't got any data but my guess is that it's plenty powerful. Think about how much more water that pump moves around than your average domestic circulator. :flame:

I think there's flow to heat a house if you want. Who's first to try it out??

Click to expand...

And how much heat does an engine waste? Roughly 70% (in a modern engine!) are lost as heat. An example: if you need 30kw (or 40hp) at the wheels to drive the car in to the wind you actually need to produce around a 100kw of energy. Of the 70kw lost as heat about 1/3 or 23kw, is going the through the radiator and the remaining 2/3 or 50kw are lost to the exhaust and drivetrain.

So pleeeeeeenty of heat to utilize!!

I'd love to see someone try to heat a house with a series engine ....they don't run particularly hot most of the time ...
Fit a Electric fan and see how often it kicks in lol .

I'll be running mine in parallel when I get around to it ...AND bear in mind a more efficient fan is fine UP to a point ....to much airflow and the air cannot pick up the heat from the matrices .
Bringing the "Fresh" air in through a warm radiator would also be worth while rather than just ambient air .
Blocking up gaps and stopping draughts as much as possible well worth it .

To be fair the standard series heater is very good IF the matrix isnt filled with silt .....
I've two 109 FFR's and they have benefitted from being filled with Glycol pretty much all of their lives and THUS are silt free ...Toasty with the canvas especially when twinned with a RadHaz kit too .

the 2005+ defender heater rad is supposed to be a lot more efficient for heat transfer.