Clutch release bearing and clutch questions

I take it this is the complete bearing and sleeve assembly that fits to the clutch arm?

Land Rover Series 3 Clutch Release Bearing - Bearmach Brand | eBay

In the green book it mentions pressing the bearing off the sleeve. However, it appears that these days they come with it.

Also, do these usually include the plastic staple? From what I have read, not everyone bothers with the staple as they soon drop out.

The manual also mention the "clutch withdrawal unit abutment faces". What is this referring to?

The engine is currently being rebuilt by someone else, but I have the gearbox here. I am trying to make sure that I have all the parts together and fitted to the gearbox now. They tell me that they can fit the clutch kit to the engine at their workshop.

My plan is when I collect the engine to lift it out of the van with the engine crane, fit the gearbox and lift both onto the chassis in the same operation.

Thanks for any info.

Yes, the sleeve is now an integral part. I think clutch kits include the staple. Can't see any mention of abutment faces in my manual! Last tip - make sure you put the slave cylinder in bleed nipple uppermost.

Get new quality engine and box mounts can help general driveability. Use a quality clutch kit like borg beck too

Another question: Does anyone bother with the special greases named in the manual?

It says "Rocol MTS 1000" for the for the clutch splines, and "PBC" for the inside of the clutch bearing.

Do I need something else again for lubricating the nylon cup on the clutch arm?

Dunno but I didnt and it was fine

Does anyone know what the "abutment faces" are?

Also, when the manual describes the "clutch withdrawal unit" is it referring to the clutch arm?

Webley1991 said:

Does anyone know what the "abutment faces" are?

Also, when the manual describes the "clutch withdrawal unit" is it referring to the clutch arm?

Click to expand...

Could this be a reference to the earlier clutch which has a somewhat more complex clutch operating mechanism? Which manual are you using?

oxides said:

Could this be a reference to the earlier clutch which has a somewhat more complex clutch operating mechanism? Which manual are you using?

Click to expand...

ye olde english gentlemans guideth to the refurbishment and reconditioning of thy h'rse, cart and landrov'r, vol i

I'm Using the "Land Rover Series III Repair Operation Manual". 1981 Edition.

In the section "Clutch Assembly: Remove and Refit" (33.10.01), step No. 8 reads:

Smear the splines of the primary pinion, the clutch centre and the withdrawal unit abutment faces with Molybdenum Disulphide grease such as Rocol MTS 1000

According to google searches, an abutment is a structure which is used to support a bridge. I think they may be referring to the area highlighted in red below.

I did see information online about a withdrawaul unit used in the Series 2 gearbox. Perhaps they just used the term in the series 3 manual to confuse matters.

As a side question: What manufacturer of clutch can anyone recommed (or not)?

they do

Once the clutch friction plate and spring plate are fitted to the flywheel and aligned, is there anything else I need to do? Do I just slot the engine and box together and then torque up the nuts on the studs?

Does the clutch require any sort of adjustment? If so, it's not obvious how you would do it.

Also, are the modern bearing races lubricated for life and sealed? I wondered if it needed any extra grease in the race.

nothing else as long as release brg,lever and rod is fitted

So to fit the box and engine back together, is it simply case of the following steps:

1) Put the studs into the engine block

2) Align the engine and box by suporting with wood blocks, push together as far as possible.

3) Put the nuts onto the studs and tighten.

4) Torque up nuts.

5) Crane engine and box back into place.

6) Tighten and torque all bolts on engine / gearbox mountings.

Am I missing anything here? It seems fairly striaghtforward in the manual, but I would like to be sure I'm not missing anything. This will be my first time actually doing this.

you never pull box upto and engine with nuts , you push it up ,you can use nuts to stop it dropping back but thats all

Thanks for the reply.

What is the reason for not using the nuts to pull them together? Am I likely to damage either the engine or box?

When I split the engine and box, the two were quite stiffly joined. I did it by gently knocking each of the gearbox mounts backwards with a hide mallet. It seems to me that it would be quite difficult to push the two halves together.

you are likely top cause a problem if its all aligned properly it will slide up ,they do seize together over time

Would it hurt to put a thin smear of grease around the mating surface of the bellhousing?

it wont hurt

You'll find it helps if you have an extra person to rotate the input shaft (in 2wd, put into gear and wiggle the rear output flange) as you try to mate the input shaft splines with the clutch plate. If it's aligned properly it should slip on easily.

I got my dad to use the crank handle to wiggle the crank into alignment. Make sure the clutch plate is not back to front at least 3 times