Clutch pedal solid

Hi Guys hope you can help.
I have a '78 series 3, 2 & 1/4 petrol. It does very few miles and it has been sitting about 3 months since last driven a short way. Went to it today and the clutch pedal is solid in the 'up' position, it won't depress.
I fitted a new master cylinder about 2 years ago, and all has been well since.
Before I start using the hammer has anyone got any pointers as to where to start?
Thanks,
Steve

Start by having a look at the peddle bushes, they do tend to seize. You may get away with spraying penetrating oil. Once they are moving try undoing the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder to check if that improves things. A nice modification from someone on here is to drill the end of the peddle box for easy access to the master cylinder push rod adjusting nuts. Let us know how you get on.

i'm tempted to say your clutch release bearing has collapsed/siezed and melted the carrier, this allows the slave to go to full extension and then it's game over

seen it more than once

You can prove whether is pedal by cracking the union at the cylinder then depress the pedal if it still won't move shaft is seized.
There is an oil bolt in shaft engine side remove this and lubricate , I have replaced oil bolt with grease nipple.
Was also me that modified pedal box for easy of adjustment.

Thanks for replies guys. I undid the slave cylinder bleed nipple a turn and the pedal works fiune, so problem either with slave or worse!!. I've got a new slave, didn't fit it when I did the master a couple of years ago because it's a pain to get at. I guess I'll do the slave and hope that's it. We're off to Australia on Monday so won't get it done before we go. Will let you know afterwards it it solved the problem.

it's definitely worse, i'd say your clutch release bearing has siezed and spun on the plastic carrier and melted it, your slave piston has now gone to full extension and stopped once it's hit the circlip

gearbox needs pulling backwards to replace it, no need to pull the seatbox out just the tunnel, floor plates and centre panel in the seatbox

unbolt the props from the transfer box and tie them out of the way, disconnect the handbrake linkage, unbolt the slave cylinder and both gearbox mounts from the crossmember

stick an engine hoist through the passenger door with a single rope down from the hook to the box (through the centre of the seatbox), the box will require another rope round it to get it balanced and then tie the single drop to that

undo the bellhousing nuts and take the weight on the hoist, a bit of wriggling and the gearbox will move back enough to change the thrust bearing

i hope that helps

slave cylinder piston will push out if theres nothing to stop it ,there isnt a circlip fitted on any ive seen, but it does sound like box needs to come off

Worth popping the slave cylinder out first to see if it's seized - the top bolt is a bit of a pig to reach but a socket with an extension bar will get to it. If the bearing has collapsed you might struggle to get the gearbox off, I've had one get caught in the clutch. You can just get a small socket and knuckle joint through the inspection plate and remove the clutch pressure plate from the flywheel which will release the gearbox. Worth replacing the entire clutch if you're in there....

Thanks everyone. If it's not just the slave, and I have to replace bearing (and clutch plate while I'm in) is it possible to use a trolly jack under the gearbox to support it? I don't have an engine hoist, or know anyone with one.

Yes but it'll be easier (not essential) if you take the seat box out. Remove all the bits, jack up slightly with the jack wheels lined up fore and aft, stick a bit of wood under the back of the engine and drop the lot so the wood is taking most of the weight (makes it easier to put back on if the engine isn't sitting on the crossmember) remove bellhousing bolts and wiggle it off. Two people makes it easier but you can do it on your own if you're careful.

Thanks Oxides, I'll get stuck in when we're back from Oz.

Just don't let the weight of the box hang on the input shaft - careful juggling of the jack should prevent this.

due to the shape and weight distribution of the gearbox with transfer box attached you'll find it reasonably difficult to balance it on a jack

far better to get a mate to come round and the pair of you maul it backwards

even for swapping the clutch it does not need to be fully removed if you have a decent alignment tool

When I had to replace thrust bearing on my series 3 trials machine, I hung box from a bar jammed front to rear across the cab to assist keeping it on the trolly jack.

My preferred method of removing gearbox is with some small lifting tackle attached to a rail resting on the internal edges of hardtop. Have used uni strut but now have a piece of heavy channel.

Hi guys, got back from Oz midweek , so set to yesterday to fit a new slave cylinder to see if that was the problem. Took a while to get the pipe union 'cracked', but eventually with help of wd40 it freed. It is awkward to get to the bolts, but with a small extension on the socket set it came out ok. Fitted the replacement ( took ages to get the union to thread correctly), and with the help of SWIMBO started bleeding. After much time and swearing we just couldn't get a decent pedal. Then a moment of realisation - I'd fitted it 'upside down' - with the bleed nipple on the bottom..... Took it off, turned it around, ages getting the union to thread again, then more pumping, pumping, pumping. Still no good. Had enough for day so just left it. Later on remembered the old trick of wedging a piece of wood onto the pedal to keep it down, so did that overnight. This morning, 2 pumps on the pedal and she's good - a firm pedal. All working fine.
So just the cylinder, and not the release bearing thank goodness, wasn't looking forward to that.
Thanks for everyones help,
Fats.

Result! LZ strikes again! Pleased to hear you've got it fixed. It's obviously too late to tell you about the remote bleed nipple mod......