Chassis paint "what's best"

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
taylorslandy72

taylorslandy72

Active Member
Posts
224
Location
bristol
Hi guys, I'm looking to paint the chassis soon on the landy, friend of mine has a compressor I can use so I think it'll be best for me to spray it on. I'm unsure on what to use, I like the thought of just spraying absolutely everything underneath. Is this a good idea and what do I need to buy. Thanks Andy
 
I use fertan as the primer - its a water based rust converter and acts as a primer - and then just spray with dinitrol black wax.

Home link to fertan page.

as fertan is water based the chassis doesn't have to be dry to use it.

the dinitrol comes in schutz containers and you can get "sealey" disposable schutz heads to stick on the dinitrol cans so you don't have to pi$$ about cleaning them afterwards. sprays readily even in coolish temperatures but you would need the chassis to have dried

if you are spraying fertan wear a mask, it isn't pleasant if you breathe it in. for the outside you can just brush it on.

had it on the s1 and my chevy for a couple of years now, so far so good.
 
Last edited:
taylorslandy72 said:
Hi guys, I'm looking to paint the chassis soon on the landy, friend of mine has a compressor I can use so I think it'll be best for me to spray it on. I'm unsure on what to use, I like the thought of just spraying absolutely everything underneath. Is this a good idea and what do I need to buy. Thanks Andy
Click to expand...

Painting it is a good idea, I always paint mine, although I use a brush.

The tractol is fine, or any black enamel like QD90, or even exterior gloss paint for wood and metal.

Preparation and primer are much more important for good protection. Degrease, rub down and wash off thoroughly first, and then use the best quality red oxide or similar rust resisting primer.

Hammerite is no good at all, used to be good stuff years ago, but the new formulation dries far too soft :(
 
Thanks all for the info, I've got a tin of carplan tetroseal underbody sealant in the garage, this will be used on the chassis, fuel tank & both axles, A friend of mine recommended that I make up a solution of oil, diesel and one more additive that I've totally forgotten and spray absolutely everything underneath using his compressor and spray gun, this has all been done on his own series 1 and it looks great.
 
taylorslandy72 said:
Thanks all for the info, I've got a tin of carplan tetroseal underbody sealant in the garage, this will be used on the chassis, fuel tank & both axles, A friend of mine recommended that I make up a solution of oil, diesel and one more additive that I've totally forgotten and spray absolutely everything underneath using his compressor and spray gun, this has all been done on his own series 1 and it looks great.
Click to expand...

All the underseal stuff will do is trap the existing rust, water and salt next to the metal, which will rot away steadily underneath. ;)

Spraying oil and diese will make it nice and shiny, and provide some corrosion protection, but it isn't very nice if you need to work under the vehicle later :(
 
Very true, what I have seen before is the total underneath of a landy sprayed in black, I would love to know what was used to do this as all inner arches and axels were sprayed, I do remember that the chassis was only prepared by jet washing first Easy & it looked really smart
 
taylorslandy72 said:
Very true, what I have seen before is the total underneath of a landy sprayed in black, I would love to know what was used to do this as all inner arches and axels were sprayed, I do remember that the chassis was only prepared by jet washing first Easy & it looked really smart
Click to expand...

Possibly black waxoyl, or there is a similar product that dries completely. There are many places that apply this, although the quality of some of their work is a moot point.

It is ok, but if you don't mind spending the time and trouble, painting is the way to go, and it is more pleasant to work with.

Jet wash is the way to go, but a rub down first removes surface rust, and gives a key for coating. Let it dry thoroughly after washdown. A warmish day is ideal for that, and for the painting or spraying.
 
Thanks turboman! Being a decorator it'll make a change to spray instead, would do this most likely in a field somewhere wearing disposable overalls and a mask. You think this is black waxoil? That's interesting
 
I used grey zinc primer from paints 4 trade and manor chassis black on my chassis. Both paints are suited for application in low temperatures
 
POR-15 Has got to be the best paint for this job, it's best used along side there own primer and cleaner bit once it's on you will struggle to get it off. It dries glass hard and bonds to the metal. If your unsure because of the cost then a small tin can be brought and tested but you won't look back. You can then top it up with whatever paint, underseal or diesel/oil mix you like
 
taylorslandy72 said:
Very true, what I have seen before is the total underneath of a landy sprayed in black, I would love to know what was used to do this as all inner arches and axels were sprayed, I do remember that the chassis was only prepared by jet washing first Easy & it looked really smart
Click to expand...

This is one point not often covered, getting the muck off first, from what I see mentioning Waxoil on this site can be like a red rag to a bull, but it would be interesting to hear from people who have found a good place to get the chassis hot washed and prepared for treatment, I am looking to get mine done this summer and its good to know that you are not wasting time and effort trying to paint anything on top of wax and muck, even old Waxoil can get a bit tatty and its best to get it off before starting again, having the work done well would seem to be a sound investment.
Perfect scenario would be clean chassis good strong primer ( how I miss the old read lead) and paint then a once over with Waxoil, but don't forget the inside of the chassis many people seem to prefer Dinitrol for the inner cavities.
 
Good points made there, will let you all know what I come up with in the end, think the oil/diesel mix will work well for inside chassis (box sections)
 
Just a though of killing two birds with one stone,

I saw someone commenting about venting the crankcase breather into the chassis, probably not conforming with current emission laws but should provide an oily none corrosive atmosphere inside the chassis, I wondered about re piping my TD5 crank vent and adding one of the cyclone separators used on other engines, then a Y connection into the chassis, maybe would save cleaning out the intercooler so often.
would need to re pipe at MOT time I suppose.
 
Last edited:
taylorslandy72 said:
Good points made there, will let you all know what I come up with in the end, think the oil/diesel mix will work well for inside chassis (box sections)
Click to expand...
Have used diesel/fresh oil mix in my chassis for years. My now twenty five year working[farm] 90 has had only a few small chassis repairs and has original rear crossmember.
Extra mud flaps have also keep tin worm at bay.
PS it's likely it was me who posted about venting into chassis,did this when landy had heavy breathing 19j.cheers
 
Last edited:
tottot said:
Have used diesel/fresh oil mix in my chassis for years. My now twenty five year working[farm] 90 has had only a few small chassis repairs and has original rear crossmember.
Extra mud flaps have also keep tin worm at bay.
PS it's likely it was me who posted about venting into chassis,did this when landy had heavy breathing 19j.cheers
Click to expand...

I have done that before,used to use diesel with used EP90, and I found it was quite good, but now I have a bit more of a vehicle budget, I use Dinitrol inside the chassis instead of the oil. It is really good, I have an endoscope,and inside the chassis is black and shiny, no active rust at all! :)

My own belief is that the inside is more important than outside, because the outside can be salvaged at quite a late stage, but once the rust really gets into the inside, that is game over.

My own 90, also on farm work and laning, is 25 years old, it has a few small plates at the rear, but never been welded forward of the rear axle. :cool:
 
raywin said:
This is one point not often covered, getting the muck off first, from what I see mentioning Waxoil on this site can be like a red rag to a bull, but it would be interesting to hear from people who have found a good place to get the chassis hot washed and prepared for treatment, I am looking to get mine done this summer and its good to know that you are not wasting time and effort trying to paint anything on top of wax and muck, even old Waxoil can get a bit tatty and its best to get it off before starting again, having the work done well would seem to be a sound investment.
Perfect scenario would be clean chassis good strong primer ( how I miss the old read lead) and paint then a once over with Waxoil, but don't forget the inside of the chassis many people seem to prefer Dinitrol for the inner cavities.
Click to expand...

As it happens, there is a classic car place outside Doncaster that is supposed to be very good. Muds is going up there shortly to have her Defender done.

You can get primer that is as good as red lead, but not in the shops ;)
I use Corroless, used on oil rigs and steel bridges, it is excellent, but I order it from a supplier upcountry and get it delivered down.
 
tottot said:
Have used diesel/fresh oil mix in my chassis for years. My now twenty five year working[farm] 90 has had only a few small chassis repairs and has original rear crossmember.
Extra mud flaps have also keep tin worm at bay.
PS it's likely it was me who posted about venting into chassis,did this when landy had heavy breathing 19j.cheers
Click to expand...

Hi Tottot
Thanks for the info how did the crank case vent idea go? were there any drawbacks? my TD5 spits out a bit of oil but I understand this is quite common, wondered how much smoke comes out after you put it through a separator, and if this might just condense inside the chassis.
I could not find your original post but I just remembered seeing something and I thought that might work.
 
I go with Turboman on it being more important to protect inside than out. raywin I just extended vent pipe from where it joined aircleaner and reduced the end to fit an existing hole in chassis. One drawback was leaving drips of oil on someones posh driveway, oops.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

cornish rattler
A question for the TDI Conversion guys
Replies
5
Views
949
300bhp/ton
300bhp/ton
M
Where is best to buy 80% phosphoric acid best for chassis rust removal?
Replies
4
Views
509
mcmorineg
M
adyw
paint for coil springs
Replies
6
Views
781
meego
meego
R
Rear chassis rails repair
Replies
6
Views
727
frostythor
frostythor
herby1
Any advice appreciated s3 109
Replies
8
Views
754
herby1
herby1
Back
Top