carb spacer under a zenith carb, do i need it?

Hi.
I was wondering whether I need the spacer that sits between the inlet manifold and the carb on my series 3 engines series1?
I'm thinking of replacing the pancake filter with the standard filter but need a bit more clearance.

Also the tube from the rocker breather to the air intake, is it required or does it just recycle engine fumes in a cleaner way?

Cheers for looking.
Toby

Sure that spacer is an insulator to stop to much heat transfer.

The spacer is indeed to insulate the carb - remove that and it will get too hot and boil the petrol. Leads to random problems with flooding and driveability.

There are plenty of people remove the breather pipes but I'd recommend keeping them - along with the *correct* T-piece and take off to elbow and carb base. It's not just a case of recycling the gasses but it also gently sucks them out of the crank. This leads to oil not getting as sludged up and a far less smelly land rover. I ran mine with a pipe to ground for a while but it stank and the oil really did silt up noticeably. You don't really need all the complicated EGR/PCV valve stuff though - it does help reduce emissions but is all a bit elaborate and I'm not sure it does much over the simpler system other than satisfy a few regulations.

Thanks.
So the pipe should come from the breather the split to air cleaner hose AND to carb base?

Aye, see page 1C-09 of the parts catalogue there's an exploded diagram there.

If u do not have the original metal elbow coming off the top of the carb which connects to the rubber hose to the air filter, I'm told its no longer available as a replacement part, I scavenged mine from a a wreck at a landy garage..for free!

Cheers
Out of interest why does it go to both?

tobyd said:

I'm thinking of replacing the pancake filter with the standard filter but need a bit more clearance.

Click to expand...

This is what hammers are for.

The base of the carb on its own would suck to hard on overrun the t piece allows a bypass to normal air pressure. That is taken from the elbow so that it is filtered air. It works well enough in practice. On other motors of a similar vintage there is sometimes instead just a pressure regulator but they can fail and either block and stop working or worse fail open and suck all your engine oil out...

dominicbeesley said:

The base of the carb on its own would suck to hard on overrun the t piece allows a bypass to normal air pressure. That is taken from the elbow so that it is filtered air. It works well enough in practice. On other motors of a similar vintage there is sometimes instead just a pressure regulator but they can fail and either block and stop working or worse fail open and suck all your engine oil out...

Click to expand...

Thanks for that.
I have an elbow and can filter on its way and just hope I can get the elbow on and the bonnet closed otherwise I will have to improvise. Also got a new thermostat on its way which may help what maybe a warm running motor.

What makes you suspect it's running warm?

There can be a number of causes of warm running, is it the exhaust that's getting hot? did you give the system a back-flush when you changed the thermostat?

Get the hammer out and make a power bulge in your bonnet....only joking

dominicbeesley said:

What makes you suspect it's running warm?

There can be a number of causes of warm running, is it the exhaust that's getting hot? did you give the system a back-flush when you changed the thermostat?

Get the hammer out and make a power bulge in your bonnet....only joking

Click to expand...

The elbow has arrived so will see if it fits tonight. Might have to go bonnet free and show off the 2.25 4 pot!

I think its running a bit hot mainly due to the gauge, rad top gets very hot and can hear a little hissing under the cap and also a bit down on power. Working through a list of things and will get a new voltage regulator just in case its that.
When I take temp readings I seem to get an exhaust manifold reading over 200 degrees and water in the rad over 80 (from memory).
Also running a series 1 rad, any ideas what drop top to bottom hose I should get?

Bugger.
Anyone managed to get the elbow to fit under a s1 bonnet?

you may have an 82 degree thermostat which is what I run to keep me toes warm. at idle I cant remember my exhaust temp but I know it goes up to around 600 when cruising!

Advancing timing can cool your exhaust and riching the mix can help too (but upsets economy!)

There doesn't look to be much room there, not sure what's best to do - too tight a bend and performance may suffer a bit but only top-end, too much restriction and you might find it starts to run too rich too.

I don't know if this is a common problem with s3 engines in s1's is there maybe a case for looking at engine mount changes?

Well got it to fit with some judicious trimming.

I have a 74 degree thermostat, new voltage stabiliser and air filter due for the weekend - we can rebuild it, the 6 million dollar land rover (god I am soooo broke).

Well a new thermostat fitted and working but it was a new voltage stabilzer that made the temp gauge read as it should.
New cone air filter fitted with a modified elbow and seems to run a bit smooter but tomorrow will get to test whether the top end power has improved. Had a compression tester delivered so will test that too.