brake drum screws

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disco924

Active Member
Posts
485
Location
manod, north wales
well after the rangie decided let go a head gasket i took out the old series 2a for work now it looks like i,m going have to replace a core plug and also try to drill out the old allen key screws as its decided to brake to the left slightly any one had any joy removing old brake screws the allen key type by drilling
 
Mine were slotted, just needed the application of a chisel and hammer on the end of the slot. You could try cutting slots with a dremel or similar.
 
Mine were slotted, just needed the application of a chisel and hammer on the end of the slot. You could try cutting slots with a dremel or similar.
thats a point next door neighbours just brought a new one he owes me a favor for skimming his supra head thanks for the tip
 
I use a hand impact driver like this http://www.amazon.co.uk/Impact-Driv...1409304788&sr=8-8&keywords=hand+impact+driver

It's worth buying some extra bits too as they tend to crumble after a while. Hold it firmly in one hand applying light twisting and pushing pressure then give it a series of clouts with a copper mallet that usually get the screws to shift. A bit of heat can sometimes help to crack them too...

If that doesn't work they do drill out quite easily and then you can usually get the stub out with some mole grips
 
If it's stuck and you have a welder, weld a nut on the head of the bolt, then with a spanner or impact wrench etc undo it (that's how they get wheel nuts off if someone has whacked the wheel nuts in with a gun)
 
When you do get them off and replace them, back them off a quarter of a turn once tight that way they never lock up. Copper grease under the head not just the threads.
 
Yes, it is worth remembering that they are only locating screws. The wheel nuts do the job of securing the brake drum along with the wheel. You often come across cars with the screws missing.

Peter
 
[/ATTACH]thanks for all the tips lads will definately try some of them. well thanks to it being dry today i got to strip the manifolds off to look at the core plugs
as one was leaking, hey presto cleaned the old oil and grease off got quite a good leak from all three pic,s included tapped them out with the doc evil method not a lot left by the time they came out. order'd another 3 i,m also gonna replace all the seals and head gasket tomorrow as i,ve got quite a good milky mix in the oil breather pipe, (pic of mixing in breather)
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What's point of the drum screws? They seem to be nothing but a PITA. Surely the wheel nuts hold the wheel to the hub, through the drum, securely enough that 3 small screws aren't needed to help... or am I missing something?
 
What's point of the drum screws? They seem to be nothing but a PITA. Surely the wheel nuts hold the wheel to the hub, through the drum, securely enough that 3 small screws aren't needed to help... or am I missing something?

there is none bar the fact its easier to adjust shoes with wheel off if screws are fitted or you could just wind wheel nuts on apart from that they serve no purpose
 
Thanks for that. I had such a hell of a job getting them out when I renewed all my brakes I just left them out when I put it all back together.

I note on a forum post that in the event of your wheel parting company then the screws stop your drum coming off too. In that event the brakes would fail as the pistons would pop out draining the fluid.

That does raise some questions...

If you are dumb enough to drive off without tightened wheel nuts, and then not notice the wobble and banging as they slowly unscrewed, then perhaps letting natural selection take its course is warranted?

In the event of a front wheel coming off would putting on the brakes be the best plan anyway? Would the vehicle stay balanced on 3 wheels or would the hub hit the ground if you just coasted to a stop. I would think braking would certainly tip it, if it was still on 3 wheels.

And with S3 onwards with dual brake system, you still have brakes.

I'm happy not bothering with them.... anyone disagree ?
 
Top and bottom is the manufacturer fitted them as standard if you remove them and have an accident involving wheel falling off and the insurer picks up on them not being fitted , he can class it as an un notified modification and not pay up.
Mine are fitted with copper slip grease and are no bother to remove new drums on backs only have one screw fronts have three each.
 
The screws are not symmetrical so if you don't put them in the wheel will be off balance and you will feel a vibration through the steering with a risk of the steering becoming vague and wandery.



:D
 
[/ATTACH]thanks for all the tips lads will definately try some of them. well thanks to it being dry today i got to strip the manifolds off to look at the core plugs
as one was leaking, hey presto cleaned the old oil and grease off got quite a good leak from all three pic,s included tapped them out with the doc evil method not a lot left by the time they came out. order'd another 3 i,m also gonna replace all the seals and head gasket tomorrow as i,ve got quite a good milky mix in the oil breather pipe, (pic of mixing in breather)
[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]

Blimy! when was the last time the poor girl saw some quality anti-freeze / rust inhibiter there!
 
What James says, plus, I've been told by an older mechanic that if you don't fit them then each time you take off a wheel it will very slightly disturb the drum to hub relationship and any grooves made in the drum/show won't line up perfectly and will need to bed in again - causing a little loss in efficiency and a bit of unnecessary shoe lining loss...no idea how true/severe it is though.

I usually fit them but I don't stress if they are missing and rarely fit all three...
 
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