Big steering problem!

I still haven't managed to separate the drop arm from the steering box, or the drop arm from the ball-joint. If anyone has any tricks for separating ball joints I'm all ears!

two hammers for ball joint look it up on youtube!

Just an update for anyone who's interested, after lots of hammering the ball joint separated so I finally bot the steering box out and on the bench.

I'm embarrassed to admit this but I just got the side plate off and tipped all the bearings out, and there were 21 small ones! Looks like Paul D was spot on with the first reply. I thought I lost a bearing in the grass but it was still inside, so when I put everything back there was one too many. I am surprised because I ran my finger round inside and I was sure they had all come out. Anyway looks like a very costly schoolboy error...

The drop arm is still absolutely seized on. I bought a 2 legged puller but that wouldn't shift it no matter how much hammering I gave it. If I can find a new rocker shaft online I'll be tempted to cut it off and put in a new one with a new drop arm. Doesn't look like there are many about though...

Harrris303 said:

Just an update for anyone who's interested, after lots of hammering the ball joint separated so I finally bot the steering box out and on the bench.

I'm embarrassed to admit this but I just got the side plate off and tipped all the bearings out, and there were 21 small ones! Looks like Paul D was spot on with the first reply. I thought I lost a bearing in the grass but it was still inside, so when I put everything back there was one too many. I am surprised because I ran my finger round inside and I was sure they had all come out. Anyway looks like a very costly schoolboy error...

The drop arm is still absolutely seized on. I bought a 2 legged puller but that wouldn't shift it no matter how much hammering I gave it. If I can find a new rocker shaft online I'll be tempted to cut it off and put in a new one with a new drop arm. Doesn't look like there are many about though...

Click to expand...

At least the mystery is solved and you know how to put it right so it's mostly good news

Very true, it's always a learning experience when something goes wrong on the landy haha. Also I've never worked on the steering before so it's been interesting seeing how it all works etc. Just hoping I can find a new rocker shaft somewhere but it's not looking too hopeful. I guess the worst-case scenario is a whole new box but there are a few on ebay for not too much money...

Can you make a plate with a slot cut in to go between steering box and arm then try two cold chisels or fox wedges between plate and arm.
The shaft is tapered so once it moves it will fall off.

Well it's weird because it's actually already come off half an inch or so, so I guess it's jammed itself at a bit of an angle. I've tried hammering it from all different angles and tried knocking it back on a bit but no luck.
Randomly I've just been on ebay and there are a few complete boxes for between £80 and £400, then I saw a fairly well-used one for £40 which was collection in person only, and it turns out to be 15 miles down the road. Very tempted to just get that one and be done with it. Always good to have spares anyway!

I would get that if it is so close then sort the other out at your leisure once the mot is out of the way.

isn't there a special purpose made tool for getting the drop arm off the steering box? I am sure I bought one specially but ended up separating the drop arm at the end furthest from the box going off a recommendation on here,

Can't believe I'm still banging on about this but just haven't had much time to get on with it and been waiting for parts etc.
Sorry Honolulujoe I didn't see your post before. I managed to pick up the new box for £40 wich was lucky. Unfortunately I had to cut the old drop arm off mine to get the brackets etc which seemed a bit of a waste...
Yes there is a special Leyland tool (no 600000?) but I only found one place that makes them and they're £70. They work in the same way as the 2 legged gear puller that I tried which still couldn't shift it.

The new seals and bearings etc arrived yesterday so I've pretty much got the box reassembled. While I was fiddling about trying to get the bearings to stay in place (nightmare!) I didn't really pay attention to which way up the outer column was, and then I realised the little slot about half way up the column is going to be facing upward, when I assume it should be facing down.

My main question is what is the slot for? And does it matter which was up it is? (I guess to stop water getting in it should be facing down...)

Cheers.

Actually just found some pics online and it seems it does face upwards anyway (and it's near the top, not halfway up).
Still if anyone's got any ideas as to the purpose I'd be interested to know. Maybe to do with fixing the electrical fittings etc at the steering-wheel end?

do you mean the slot in the shaft outer near the steering wheel end - that's where the steering lock goes I think...

Oh right that would make sense. Mine doesn't have a steering lock so that would explain why it seemed a bit redundant. I assumed it was for clipping something into or something similar. Cheers.

Right so I've reassembled the box and I'm at the stage of putting it back in the landy. Just trying to get the new drop arm on and it seems like it might as difficult to put back on as it was to get off!
I'm kind of assuming you just keep screwing the big nut on and hopefully it just squeezes the arm on, right up to the body of the steering box. Or have I missed something?

Another thing which I'm slightly concerned about is exactly how the O-ring goes on. From the Haynes manual it looks like it just goes on the outside, between the drop arm and the steering box, but at the moment I can't see the drop arm ever being tight enough against the body for the seal to work... Also I don't even remember it having an O-ring before but I guess it must have...
Any ideas anybody? Cheers.

Just realised there's a washer which pops out and the oil seal then slots into the housing, so that explains that.
Still just wondering how to get the drop arm on all the way...

It's worth having a good read of the workshop manual (not Haynes) while putting it back together and make sure that the recirculating nut is lined up perfectly with the arm and the adjuster is wound out. I managed, due to hangover, to not get it all lined up properly and bent the cover plate which was an expensive mistake!

I can't remember if the arm goes up flush to the box or not I think I remember there being a 1/4" gap but would have to have a look...not doing it now as its ****ing it down...

Significant gap as can be seen in this photo.

I don't think that gap is excessive, as long as the nut is mostly on the threads. Make sure the drop arm is on the right way round (sloping bits on the top of the arm outwards) or you'll have the taper for the ball joint wrong.

Yeah I went and had a look under the bonnet of someone else's and found a similar gap so that was a relief. Just seemed odd for things not to go tight up to each other, but obviously those tapered grooves wedge it quite nicely. In fact I've got a feeling that's why they're so bloody hard to separate!!
I've got the box back on and all linked up (minus one or two nuts and bolts which need replacing) and all seems well so far. It's still on an axle-stand on the driver's side so haven't properly tested the steering yet but it seems ok.
In the process of all this I've discovered a leaking wheel cylinder which explains why it was pulling so badly to one side for the last few weeks! Next task before the MOT haha.

Anyway hopefully that's the end of my steering problems for the time being. Many thanks to all who've made suggestions and given useful advice. It's been an epic journey for me! Thanks again, Pete.