all wheels locked

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SimonSeries3

New Member
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4
afternoon all, I a series 3 landy and doing a rolling restoration, ie getting everything working lights, brakes all the easy things hahaha, done the clutch slave cylinder. Now the fun has started, jacked rear end and the wheels are very difficult to turn, checked front wheels and they have locked. transmission brake drum rocks not sure if I should start it and rock the transmission to life or strip it out, really looking for simple solution until ready for major strip down next year. Any one else experienced similar. not being tight just bought a bulk head to renovate and new chassis next year. would just like to have the GIRL Friend as my wife calls her moving around to keep everything working
 
Could be brakes, diffs or gearbox. If you put the 2/4wd lever in its "middle" position it'll totally disengage the front wheel drive, dropping off the propshaft will do the same. Take off the rear propshaft. If it will roll then the gearbox is shagged. If the rear diff is seized you can move the car by removing the half shafts - unbolt the drive flange and pull them out. If it still won't budge you'll have to take the drums off and remove the shoes. Or you might get away with slackening off the adjusters.
 
hi oxides
thanks for the comments yep dropping the prop shafts seems the best idea, fingers crossed its not the gearbox, with the props off I can run through the gear box functions (low revs) that might confirm my fears. oh well that s me busy tomorrow, thanks again. will try to let you know the outcome, but trying to work out my around this site good site btw.
 
Could be brakes, diffs or gearbox. If you put the 2/4wd lever in its "middle" position it'll totally disengage the front wheel drive, dropping off the propshaft will do the same. Take off the rear propshaft. If it will roll then the gearbox is shagged. If the rear diff is seized you can move the car by removing the half shafts - unbolt the drive flange and pull them out. If it still won't budge you'll have to take the drums off and remove the shoes. Or you might get away with slackening off the adjusters.

very unlikely to be diffs giving problems unless they've been run dry of oil and burnt the bearings out which takes a bit of doing (changed one the other week where a hole had appeared in the diff pan which let the pinion bearing run dry and weld itself up)

middle position on the "high/low" lever disconnects drive from the transfer box thus allowing you to try the 4 gears and reverse operates, the main gearbox can be operated but leaves both axles connected together to give 4 points of resistance (tyre contact) to the ground when the handbrake is applied (this is for PTO operation usually)

being as you have jacked the rear off the floor (i guess both wheels together) and you're struggling to rotate the wheels i'd say that one or both brakes are dragging and possibly the same with the front wheels, both rear wheels off the floor together, rotate one clockwise and the other should then rotate the opposite direction with the handbrake on, take the handbrake off and put the high/low lever forwards so that it's in 4x2 with the main box in neutral and usually the path of least resistance is the handbrake drum rotates when you turn a wheel

you don't say how long you've spent building or whether you have removed the drums and done any checks or servicing in them, it could be rusty drums, poor adjustment, knackered flexis or siezed slaves, i've had drums turn into absolute pigs to get off after having stood for a few years and then rust has grown on the braking surfaces

now i'm not saying i'm correct but i certainly wouldn't start shouting that your gearbox is buggered, think through your problem and understand your driveline before consigning any of it to the bin

the only time i personally have had a gearbox lock up on me is when the castle nut on the rear of the mainshaft came loose, this meant i couldn't get the gearbox out of gear or get the vehicle to move at all, i pulled one halfshaft and it released the tension in the gearbox allowing me to get it out of gear, i then retightened the castle nut and slid the halfshaft back in and all was good (i don't think that little bit of info' has anything to do with your problem)
 
Wise words - if the vehicle hasn't been moved for a while you can probably infer everything was working when it was moved into it's current position and the most likely thing to have seized over time are the brakes. Disconnecting drive may well let you locate which wheel is seized, it's unlikely they all will be.
 
hi again been a while, work and flu. stripped all the brake parts and rebuilt everything correctly still no good so stripped it all again, everything turns ok without brakes, rebuilt it all still same problem. with the drum off and tinkering I noticed when the pistons are pushed in they very slowly come back out pushing the shoes out therefore bringing the brakes on. so today had a go at some bleeding not perfect but better so conclude the master cylinder is faulty ie not allowing the system to release pressure. job for next week
 
Seen this before....check the brake master cylinder push rod under the cover on the top of the unit....it should have some free play...if its tight the brakes wont come off....

Nick.
 
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