300 tdi in a series.

The Mad Hat Man said:

dont it need cv joints?

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See reply 32

but what gearbox you using ?
the way he fitted it was with the gearbox and engine both from the donor not the series box with will need moding

Why will a series box need moding?

isnt that what dr pepper is doin to make the engine/clutch housing fit the bell housing

Well actually you dont need to bash the series box, it fits, look at the photos again, the flywheel housing is on the box allready.
But because I have lost the engine to flywheel strengthener I'm gona drill 2 maybe three holes in the bellhosing so that I can get 11 out of the original 12 bolts back in.
I spose if you were ruff you'd just sling it on with 8 bolts.
I had to also remove the offside chassis mount completely, and I think I need to move the brake proportioning valve/splitter.
Might be able to get the battery back where it belongs though.

Been at it again today.
Put the flywheel housing back together, flywheel back on, cut extra bits of the engine mounts that were meant for the disco's bellhousing reinforcement that I had to remove.
Also drilled 2 holes in the series box at the bottom, now 10 out of the original 12 fit, I dont see any point in drilling either of the other 3 out as the series box bellhousing does not have sufficient thickness at those points, at the base there is a thickening of the material with a flat behind good for the 2 I've drilled it out for, the other 3 are only an 1/8" thick with a slope behind, not much good for a bolt.
Gonna try dropping the engine in tomoz once I've moved the brake proportional valve.
Further news then...

i dont mean to seem stupid and im sure its been talked about here before but why keep the series gearbox ?

are they stronger or is it just easier with mountings and shafts

I want the series box as the r380 disco box is permanant 4 wheel drive, and the series having uj's in the front axle swivels its not a good idea. It is possible to fit a kit made by ashworhts transmissions to make the r380 to selectable 2wd/4wd, but thats a lot more complex and a lot more expensive, this'll get me going, plus the red and yellow levers are an important part of the series.
Been doing a bit more today, heres some more piccies, had to cut the battery box for the cam belt cover, issues with the alty, its close to the chassis rails, and also I had to mod the engine mounts as they dont quite fit between the chassis rails.
And as others have mentioned the fan does not work, no way, an electric one required.

Not been updating for a bit, been having problems.
Mi engine lift has gone fecked, it'll pick up the motor to the height I want but then it'll lower itself fairly quickly, useless for positioning an engine.
Took it apart here at work and found a load of ****e in the base around the valves and controls, the main seal edge still feels sharp, so I'm hoping a clean up and new oil will sort her out.
If not I'll be looking for a newun, thisn's probably 30 year old now, and the first 10 years was spent being used regualar in industry for changing tools, so the old girls probably worn out.

latest, been modding the offside engine mount, had to grind the bracket right back, the mount has a overhang that looks as though it sposed to 'catch' the other end of the bracket if the rubber fails, and this gets right in the way, also trimmed the base of the mount and welded and 'moved' the mouting hole for the rubber in the bracket, hope having themounts at diffo heights doesnt screw things up.
Then its exhaust time.

thats a tight squeaze for sure!!

whats the clearance between the engine sump and the axle casing like? i heard it gets pretty tight with some of these bigger diesels.

good job though!

Ok, seems to be enough room for axle movement, the axle is actually well ahead of the engine, just the crank pulley overangs but its well clear.
The engine sits about 3/4" to the offside at the moment because of the mounting, dunno if I can get this better, or weld it where it is.

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Has the engine got an air conditioning pump on it? Looks like it might be tricky fitting all the radiators and pipes in under the bonnet with all those bits bolted to the nearside of the engine. Does it look feasable to do away with the unecessary pumps and reposition the alternator? I suppose the other solution would be to do a Defender front pannel and bonnet conversion to give you some more room in there.

Overall room is not so much the issue, you are right though the alty is a bit close, I was trying not to change from the original 300 setup, but might have to.
There is no a/c pump (I wish there was, I'd like one for on board air) but there is a power steering pump, the alty and the pump both sit on their own ally casting, I could remove this and fit the alty over the injector pump, if I do that it'll fit better but I'd be using up space for my panned extra's.
At the mo the alty is 10mm clear, might just see what happens when I fire up the engine, might be ok for the time being.
Dont want an ugly deffy front, I'dve bought a deffy 300tdi if that were the case.

dr pepper said:

Overall room is not so much the issue, you are right though the alty is a bit close, I was trying not to change from the original 300 setup, but might have to.
There is no a/c pump (I wish there was, I'd like one for on board air) but there is a power steering pump, the alty and the pump both sit on their own ally casting, I could remove this and fit the alty over the injector pump, if I do that it'll fit better but I'd be using up space for my panned extra's.
At the mo the alty is 10mm clear, might just see what happens when I fire up the engine, might be ok for the time being.
Dont want an ugly deffy front, I'dve bought a deffy 300tdi if that were the case.

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Agreed about the Defender front end - it's nice to keep a Series looking like a Series. What are the two large pulleys inboard of the alternator on your 300tdi engine then? One must be the PAS pump. Is the other a vacuum pump for the brake servo or is it just an idler?

The larger one with the ground off nut I think is just an idler, it carried the fan, and the other to the left and lower a bit from the alty which is on the far right is the steering pump.

Dunno what to make of todays installment, I made some brackets for the mounts, but I'm reluctant to weld them, they are right accross the leaf hangers, I'm not particularly in the mood to totally re-design them, spose I need to fully compress the springs to see how much clearance I'll need, no idea how to do that.

Have a look at give me all the reasons why it'll not work, I thought about making a cardboard copy of the leaf drop brackets and the end of the leaf itself, then hold it up next to the original and swing it around to make sure that the end of the leaf will touch the chassis before it touches my bracket plus a bit, then I'll know its not gonna get in the way, I have to say I'm not too happy with this set up.

Should I weld these on or shall I bolt them, bolts are not gonna stress the steel and can be taken off if the mot man poo poo's them.

You might be able to compress the suspension enough if you put a couple of H/D ratchet straps between the chassis rails and the axle on each side. I tried this with my rear axle when I was doing something similar. You really have to wazz the straps up well tight though and it doesn't do them any favours. Just about works.

In the end I did my alignment with a scrap set of leaf springs that I took all the leaves out of except the big one - was very easy to compress that way. But by the time you've done all that it might be easier to redesign your mount!

Good luck.

Like this. P'raps not quite so easy if you've got an engine in the way. And - you gotter be well careful when you undo it and let the ratchet go!

Yep but your right, cant do that with the engine in the way, I do have though a hand operated chain winch, and can borrow another which will slowly release instead of the catapult arrangement you had there, bet that was scary.
Might be able to rig something with some threaded bar and a plate accross the top and wind the nuts up to compress things.