109 Series 3 Stage 1 1980

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The points look to be set well enough to get some kind of spark.

First up I'd give them a clean - I've had a couple of sets that have come from NOS and have needed a rub down with some fine emery to get them working.

As a test you need to disconnect the points from the coil and check for continuity to the chassis / battery negative then they're open and closed. do that with the ignition off or better with battery disconnected.

You may have a short if you've missed out an insulator or it maybe open circuit in which case you need to trace back to the points....

D
 
The riveted patch is to hide the holes in the body work...I actually like it. Maybe a farmer used it as a work bench at some point haha!

Thanks Dominic, I should be doing some tomorrow and will report the results...is the coil -> distributor body lead supposed to be connected to the condenser on the points?! Or should they be separated by the little plastic washer?
 
Excellent, I'm getting there I think. I had continuity between 1 point and the chassis, and 2nd point and cable -> coil (disconnected). (after adjusting) Thanks Dominic

Anyway I'm getting a spark on my little plug in tester that I bought. YES!

I have the battery on charge tonight!

Took the rocker cover off to see if the distributor was hitting no.1 at the right time...it looks very dry and gunky.
 
Assume any old rv8 will need a rebuild if its got black death looking inside rocker covers. You can try a modern diesel oil to clean it up over a few hundred miles but it sounds like it may have not had regular oil chnges if its gunked up. May be better to ditch it and source a better engine if so as youll be chasing money on it. Strip it back a bit and take off the heads before you spend any more cash. Just to see what you have.
Go elec ingnition every time, points are ancient history for a good reason, they dont like being left in the damp. Good luck.
 
Let's have a picture of the inside of the rocker - there's gunk and there's gunk.

Electronic points have their up sides: fewer adjustments needed, a bit less prone to damp though not immune! - they're not a panacea. I've had one set die on me in the middle of nowhere - luckily I'd kept some NOS ones in the toolbox. Also, I find with the current set that they give an erratic idle. A good set of points these days is hard to find though, most of the pattern parts are utter garbage.
 
After a wee bit research it seems the rover v8 can leak soot from into the oil in places. Now I'm hoping after sitting for 12 years it may just be a build up of gunk/not getting used. (I have seen that on other forums) And nothing more serious....like 'black death'

This is a budget resto so I'll try a few oil changes and see how she does. My space, time, money and expertise is a bit lacking so can only do a body on job. Haha
 
I would pop the sump off, first thing I check on these elderly V8s, usually there is a layer of sludge at the bottom and the oil pick up strainer is partially blocked too, only costs you a gasket and some oil. Second thing is how much play in the water pump? Do a compression test to see how things are, if the readings are around 110 psi or below put some oil down the bore and retest, if the pressure shoots up, you have bore or ring wear, if not, you could just have hydraulic lifter issues and cam wear due to lack of clean oil over the years either way its play time for you and the spanners.

I change the oil in mine twice a year, with oil containing high levels of zinc, and it only covers 1000 miles a year, oh and change the coolant once a year too, all Alloy engines love to corrode from the inside.
 
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Thanks, I'll do that next. Play from the water pump as in back and fourth on the shaft? Going to buy a compression tester ASAP, at least I get an excuse to buy new tools!��

Okay detailed pics to follow.

P.s thanks all for your input
 
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Just grab the viscous coupling around the base of the shaft and lift up and down with enough force to feel for play in the water pump, difficult to explain really, but even new pumps have some play, but its only a tiny amount though, if it makes any noise when rocking it I would replace as they are a common wear point of the cooling system.
 
I'm not sure about v8s but my 2.25 had overheated at some point coating everything with a coat of burnt on oil I ran it for a few weeks with ATF in instead of oil and it washed all the ****e out. It needed the oil strainer and the sump cleaning after that!
 
Had a good day today! Started and a bit of painting done.

The distributor was 180 degrees out, pointing the opposite way to cylinder 1 on the start of the down stroke. Tested with a finger in the spark plug hole.


Paint is coming along

literally farted all this rust all over the drive!

Here is the passenger side gunk, I will have more of the DS and whats in the sump when I got to do the oil and coolant next.

and a video of it running...
 
Had a good day today! Started and a bit of painting done.

The distributor was 180 degrees out, pointing the opposite way to cylinder 1 on the start of the down stroke. Tested with a finger in the spark plug hole.


Paint is coming along

literally farted all this rust all over the drive!

Here is the passenger side gunk, I will have more of the DS and whats in the sump when I got to do the oil and coolant next.

and a video of it running...

Thats not good to see that crud. Not changing the oil is pretty tough on an engine and id say yours looks like its been through some lean times service wise! You can clear the crud with using modern diesel oils but the cam, followers, rings, bearings etc... will have had a hard time. Maybe take the cam out and have a look. Or just run her as is and dont worry! :D
 
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