Shredded timing belt 2002 Freelander KV6 - need help

Hippo said:

Wow that’s a brilliant explanation. Thanks for the offer of a pic. If you’re opening it up it would be good to see if it’s not too much hassle or going to damage something. I have to admit with mine I’d got to the stage of try it and see. I was certain the belts were on right. Was my first belt change. It’s the one part of the instruction I pieced together front loads of different sources which I didn’t know about in advance of it happening. It was 11pm and I’d been on it since early morning. I remember telling it if it wanted to live it had to fix itself.

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Well here goes for a pic!

This SHOULD be two pics in one.
The top is the whole thing in one piece, the lower should be it in two parts, one fitting into the other a bit like a telescope.

In this one the flat end (left) runs on the cam-lobe and the rounded end fits into a rocker-arm socket. It leaks oil into that socket through the rounded end,which lubes the ball and socket.

Let's see if I can post a pic.

Exciting huh?

My God! It worked!

I think all the workings are there to be seen.


I have added this pic (hey am I getting good at this or what?) to show the little hole in the main body of the follower outer part through which the engine oil fills it up. For the oil to get IN, the air inside has to get OUT, and so they always leak down a little in service. Usually they will top up so quickly we won't notice.

If you look closely at the first pic, at the INNER plunger part body you will see the oil filler hole passage that allows the oil to pass into the main space of the follower body and fill it up. At the bottom (left in the pic) end of the INNER plunger you can see a one-way ball valve that lets oil IN to the main space, but not out again. This is what makes the follower rigid enough to operate the valve. The ball valve is in the little housing that the spring sits around. The spring is there only to keep the follower extended so it fills up better.


Any Questions?

Bed time soon!

Thanks for that. I have to admit I find engines fascinating. When you consider the pressure built up inside, the heat involved and the constant hammering they get, it's a wonder they ever survive more than a short period of time.

Night.

QUOTE OF THE MONTH:

"I remember telling it if it wanted to live it had to fix itself."

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Excellent Strategy!
I will remember that one!

Hippo said:

Thanks for that. I have to admit I find engines fascinating. When you consider the pressure built up inside, the heat involved and the constant hammering they get, it’s a wonder they ever survive more than a short period of time.

Night.

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It's fun to work out how many times the pistons go up and down the bores.

If we say an engine runs at 2,500 rpm (revs per MINUTE) at 60 miles an hour average this allows a bit for driving in lower gears and so on.

So, every hour or 60 miles the engine rotates at 60 x 2,500 times, that's 150,000 times an hour! The pistons each go up and down once per turn of the crank, so they do TWO lengths of the bore per rev, so about 300,000 lengths for every 60 miles or so.

For every 1,000 miles of running, that comes to about FIVE MILLION times each piston has gone up and down!

Now if your engine has reached 100,000 miles as mine will soon, this means those pistons have each done approximately FIVE HUNDRED MILLION lengths of the bore.

And that is all down to good engine oil, in my case Tractor Universal all the way

Charlesy, sweetheart...if you think thats fun then i guess you have been married, or single, far too long.

storm99 said:

Charlesy, sweetheart...if you think thats fun then i guess you have been married, or single, far too long.

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Hmmmm .... "Sweetheart" huh?
That sounds quite encouraging, but not if you are a bloke.

Have been married, but single just now.

Are you offering to improve my status?
How can I tempt you?

Two TD5 Discos, a Lightweight, a 200tdi Disco for a project, ten acres, 20 sheep, and a vast collection of tools.

What do you say?

Your Birthday is one day after mine, so we are both New Year babies!

CharlesY said:

QUOTE OF THE MONTH:

"I remember telling it if it wanted to live it had to fix itself."

***************************************************

Excellent Strategy!
I will remember that one!

Click to expand...

I'd finished caring at that point. Thought I'd broke him so anything was an option.

Will all those parts moving up and down all the time it's no wonder one of them ocasionally makes an escape for freedom. I just hope mine don't do it for a long time. Or it's an easy fix if it does.

kim_lombard said:

I have the front head off. No real visible damage to head or pistons. I can see "kiss marks" where the valves contacted the piston but nothing more. Please advise. I can't buy the engine, since I live in Sacramento, CA USA. Does that mean new valves are required? What is the most likely way to proceed?

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get engineering shop to vacuum test valves- what I do over here to check on them if they look okay.

also if it has plastic dowels you may want to bin them for steel ones and do not turn engine over with heads removed or liners on k series shift.

Nothing doing tomorrow so on Beer

For those reading this old interesting thread, here are a couple of videos I did that may help others with changing cambelts and cleaning hydraulic tappers:
Doing the kv6 belts on a small budget:
Hydraulic tappers:

Thanks fer posting the video's. This fred brings back some happy memories.