Any tips for Freelander '97 1.8K series????
History:
November 2011 : Water Pump bust / leaked - massive airlock and thus HGF
Result : New headgasket , New Pump , New cam belt
Job seemed OK... travelled to Newcastle from kent , shortly after, with no issues.
Feb this year : -10c temps , driving around and temp needle shoots up , heater on full blast hot , turned to cold(????) and temp needle goes back down (???)
Fault disappears when weather warms.... but coolant starts to boil when engine is only slightly warm.
Purchased new expansion tank and cap. replaced but didn't bleed properly , anyway fault remained. got local garage to bleed coolant and fault remained
Got cylinder head checked out and pressure tested.. I was told it was warped(!) but mechanic said it could be repaired (??)
I supplied the mechanic with new MLS gasket set with bolts.
Got car back and it started by turning the key without any gas ( hasn't started properly for ages ) all seemed fine , drove 20 miles fairly carefully 2.5k revs max 40-50mph and the bloody thing overheated. lot of coolant loss.
had some water to top up and I got home.
NOW , i have felt the bottom hose and it is stone cold even when the engine is warm. If iI release some pressure through the heater bleed then the bottom hose warms. Airlock issue , obviously.
So i have been bleeding and topping up for 2 days now. I get a warm bottom hose , and no air escaping from bleed , so I drive about. stop and check bottom hose and it's stone cold again. releasing the bleed and loads of air and bubbly coolant come out. The level in the expansion tank is staying fairly good , although some coolant appears to be leaking out the cap when it's really warm.
Luckily I haven't paid for the repair yet.. BEFORE I Give the mechanic a shouting at , Are there any tips for doing an amateur bleed so I can rule out airlock and not dodgy gasket repair or dodgy head repair. I'm getting a new cap in next 48hrs aswell.
History:
November 2011 : Water Pump bust / leaked - massive airlock and thus HGF
Result : New headgasket , New Pump , New cam belt
Job seemed OK... travelled to Newcastle from kent , shortly after, with no issues.
Feb this year : -10c temps , driving around and temp needle shoots up , heater on full blast hot , turned to cold(????) and temp needle goes back down (???)
Fault disappears when weather warms.... but coolant starts to boil when engine is only slightly warm.
Purchased new expansion tank and cap. replaced but didn't bleed properly , anyway fault remained. got local garage to bleed coolant and fault remained
Got cylinder head checked out and pressure tested.. I was told it was warped(!) but mechanic said it could be repaired (??)
I supplied the mechanic with new MLS gasket set with bolts.
Got car back and it started by turning the key without any gas ( hasn't started properly for ages ) all seemed fine , drove 20 miles fairly carefully 2.5k revs max 40-50mph and the bloody thing overheated. lot of coolant loss.
had some water to top up and I got home.
NOW , i have felt the bottom hose and it is stone cold even when the engine is warm. If iI release some pressure through the heater bleed then the bottom hose warms. Airlock issue , obviously.
So i have been bleeding and topping up for 2 days now. I get a warm bottom hose , and no air escaping from bleed , so I drive about. stop and check bottom hose and it's stone cold again. releasing the bleed and loads of air and bubbly coolant come out. The level in the expansion tank is staying fairly good , although some coolant appears to be leaking out the cap when it's really warm.
Luckily I haven't paid for the repair yet.. BEFORE I Give the mechanic a shouting at , Are there any tips for doing an amateur bleed so I can rule out airlock and not dodgy gasket repair or dodgy head repair. I'm getting a new cap in next 48hrs aswell.
