200Tdi Rebuild

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RodneyA

Active Member
Posts
295
Location
Ayrshire, South West Scotland
After getting a Genuine Defender 200Tdi engine for a great price I Started the process of rebuilding it earlier this year, I got it all stripped down but then was too busy at work to start the rebuild.

I've finally got the time So I've made a start on it.

First step was to get the block Re bored due to a scratch down one of the bores and to get the block cleaned.

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I'm currently waiting on new Pistons, Rings, Conrod bearings, Main Bearings and Thrust washers coming from Turners.

The head is currently getting skimmed, Pressure tested and Valve's reground, Injectors and Turbo is also away getting tested.

My next step is to get the block painted black, Just waiting on the paint arriving, Should be here tomorrow :)

I also tested the Crank End float which is currently sitting at dead on 0.1mm, Between the 0.05 and 0.15 it should be, Is it worth brining the end float down closer to the 0.05 or is it fine at the 0.1 it is at at the moment.

Going to see The Avengers tomorrow so will be getting some painting done on Either Wednesday or Thursday :)

Chris
 
Having owned a few 200 over the years Ive often wondered how much better a newly rebuilt one goes?
 
Got my head and other bits back today. Crank and cam got a polish. Injectors got tested and are working perfect. Head got pressure tested, skimmed, cleaned, valves reground and new valve stem oil seals.

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Got the block nearly ready to spray. Just covering up all the holes ect.
 
Keep crank end float to Land Rover recommendations. To much end float and you start to load the conrods, and then reducing the clearance at the small end between rod and piston. There may be a fair amount of clearance here in any case but I'm sure you can understand how a problem may develop. Also check the ring gap, this is most important, never assume they are pre set. I generally find that one or two will always need added clearance. Don't want to preach to the converted but if you can get some oil pressure before firing up. Best of luck.
 
No, ring gap it the gap between both ends of a new ring when fitted inside the bore (use a piston to ensure the ring is square to the bore). Each ring has its own gap requirement, don't know what they are for a 200 but for the 300 it is 0.4 to 0.65mm (top ring), 0.3 to 0.5 for second ring and 0.3 to 0.6 for the oil ring to give you an idea. Too small a gap can result in ring failure, to large will lose compression.
 
You can buy just the core unit yourself off of ebay and the like for way cheaper than a recon company and lets be honest thats what they probably do anyway!
 
Just waiting for some new Piston Rings to arrive from turners, I accidentally broke one :(.

Got the rest of the engine ready to paint now.

Will have the painting done by Monday and new rings should be here by then also :)

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Also got a new supply of my black latex :)

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Normally there should be a notch in one of the bearing shells, that notch should fit in the the other notch. Its purpose is to stop the bearing shells spinning in the conrod.
 
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