Freelander Window mechanism repair

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The Mad Hat Man

Well-Known Member
LZIR Despatch Agent
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Embasinga stocæ
With thanks to "Northern Islander"......

Remove all door trim, followed by plastic membrane (you can tape this back on)

Attachments (3dr model shown)

1. Lower window to show the window clamps
19270d1288210650-window-mechanism-1-window-clamps-lowered.jpg

2. Mark the clamp positon on the glass, undo both clamp bolts (10mm), remove the glass (easiest when removed diagonally)
19271d1288210650-window-mechanism-2-glass-marked-position.jpg

3. Undo the door strut bolts (T25 torx, x4) and the regulator bolt (10mm), there is a cable clip on back of the strut, reach up and unclip the cable.
19272d1288210650-window-mechanism-3-door-strut-t25-torx-bolts-x4.jpg
Disconnect the wire multi-plug on the regulator itself.
4. I marked the position of the window runner bolts (10mm) loosen the bolts, two per runner, then pop them out.
19273d1288210650-window-mechanism-4-marked-bolts.jpg

5. fold the runners sideways, so they cross over in the centre, RH runner comes out first, then the regulator.
19274d1288210650-window-mechanism-5-rh-runner-out-first-then-regulator.jpg

6. Keep the runners crossed and remove from the door .
19275d1288210650-window-mechanism-6-runners-folded.jpg

7. Undo the 4 self tappers on the back of the regulator (T25 torx screws, x4) Note the bottom left one on mine is a standard screw
19276d1288211179-window-mechanism-7-t25-torx-screws-x4-backing-plate.jpg

8. Remove the backing plate.........spot the cable snapped, right up at the lug.
19277d1288211179-window-mechanism-8-cable-snapped-1.jpg

9. Turn the runner over containing the broken/loose cable.
19278d1288211179-window-mechanism-9-lh-runner-turned-over.jpg

10. Remove the cable from the 'spring end'
19279d1288211179-window-mechanism-10-remove-larger-lug.jpg

11. You might need to roll the cable around the pulley(s) using the recess
19280d1288211179-window-mechanism-11-roll-cable-around-pulley-recess.jpg

12. Measure a new cable relative to the old one, note the two marks showing where the new lug will start and end
19281d1288211179-window-mechanism-12-cable-measured.jpg

13. After you have cut the cable to size, refit the spring and cable sleeve
19282d1288212120-window-mechanism-13-refit-spring-sleeve.jpg

14. I'm using a lead lug, so I have bent the cable back on itself (pic is a bit fuzzy :eek:)
19283d1288212120-window-mechanism-14-cable-kinked.jpg

15. I have placed a few fishing weights on a spoon for smelting, note the rag lol it's gonna get hot. melt the lead over a gas flame (any gas camping stove or blow torch)
19284d1288212120-window-mechanism-15-lead-weights.jpg

16. Once the lead is moulten state, give the cable end a quick heat over the flame. Insert the cable into a pre-drilled hole in some hard wood (5-6mm deep), use a 5 or 6mm drill bit. It doesn't matter if it's over sized, the lead is easily shaped/cut to size.
19285d1288212120-window-mechanism-16-cable-cast-hole.jpg

17. quickly pour in the molten lead, hold the cable steady until set
19286d1288212120-window-mechanism-17-lead-solidifying.jpg

18. Nice shiny new lug, the nipple is from the shape of the wood drill bit
19287d1288212120-window-mechanism-18-new-cast-lug-01-.jpg

19. new lug relative to where it sits in the spindle (Actual size should be 4mm wide by 5mm long), trim or file down to size.
19288d1288212120-window-mechanism-19-new-lug-ready-filing-trimming.jpg

20. Lug filed down to size and excess cable trimmed
19289d1288212120-window-mechanism-20-trimmed-lug-fit-recess.jpg

21. Wind the cable halfway around the spindle
19290d1288213324-window-mechanism-21-cable-wound-halfway.jpg

22. Counter rotate the second cable around the spindle, they should meet halfway (assuming you have the two clamps at the same height on the runners) Keep a firm grip on the cables to prevent unwinding!!
19291d1288213324-window-mechanism-22-counter-rotating-cables-each-runner.jpg

23. Roughly position the spindle over the regulator, clip the green D shaped flange into position. lower the spindle on to the motor splines. Keep a firm grip!!
19292d1288213324-window-mechanism-23-allign-spindle-cable-place.jpg

24. stretch the other cable over the lower outlet (there are two to choose from, go for the one with the most tension on the cable) Note... If the cable doesn't reach just lift the spindle off again and rotate to give some slack.
19293d1288213324-window-mechanism-24-second-wire-stretched-under-tension.jpg

25. Spindle in place with cables nestled around it
19294d1288213324-window-mechanism-25-wire-nestled-furrows.jpg

26. Fit the backing plate, making sure the long lug slots into the green D-flange. Refit the torx screws and breath a sigh of relief.
19295d1288213324-window-mechanism-26-backing-plate-nestled-d-collar.jpg

Grease and oil all cables and runners

Refit the runners in reverse of how they came out, tighten up all bolts, clip the cable to the strut again.
Give the regulator a test using the window switch before lowering the glass into the clamps again. Dont run the clamps all the way to the top!!

When you're happy it works, lower the glass into its original position and tighten the clamps, refit the door membrane (duck tape will do) and door trim.

Job done, give yourself a pat on the back and go for a pint/cuppa ;)
 
Last edited:
hi, I am soon going to attempt this, but going to buy the cables from shebay, but here is the stupid question...... how do you lower the window when the regulator cable is snapped?
 
I take it this is for the side doors and not the tailgate? just got me a freelander and the tailgate cable has snapped so need to repair it but worried i might knacker up the motor with using one of those ebay repair kits....thanks
 
Good tip with the lead lug, i would never thought of doing that, i'll give it a go....thanks
 
good explanation...but you forgot to mention the
other 2/3 that have snapped as well.lol.
thanks for info regards stan.
 
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