DIY Waxoyl

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S

StaffBull

Guest
I want to waxoyl my 96 ES disco V8.

Is it just a case of getting the pump type thingy and spraying it on (
sounds too simple) does it have to be warm weather ?
where do i need to inject the chassis ?
I also have no access to a ramp/pit so will be doing it lying underneath,
the 2" lift should help a bit.
Any pointers much appreciated


 

"StaffBull" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I want to waxoyl my 96 ES disco V8.
>
> Is it just a case of getting the pump type thingy and spraying it on (
> sounds too simple) does it have to be warm weather ?
> where do i need to inject the chassis ?
> I also have no access to a ramp/pit so will be doing it lying underneath,
> the 2" lift should help a bit.
> Any pointers much appreciated
>


It needs a thorough chassis hot pressure washing first off. Then let dry
then inject waxoyl into chassis box sections using the amazing number of
holes then spray the external chassis, axle and under floor area. Avoid
brake discs by covering them in sacking.
Ideally you would use a lift. Less ideally a chain attached to an
upside-down tow ball and the rear lifted by an industrial loader until the
nose touches the ground [not forgetting the use of safety props]. You would
also use compressed air and proper tools to apply the product rather than
the inadequate freebies supplied by Waxoyl.

Forget the clear stuff. Only the black is worth the effort.

Huw


 
Mmm! sounds like a job for the pro's then!!!



"Huw" <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "StaffBull" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I want to waxoyl my 96 ES disco V8.
>>
>> Is it just a case of getting the pump type thingy and spraying it on (
>> sounds too simple) does it have to be warm weather ?
>> where do i need to inject the chassis ?
>> I also have no access to a ramp/pit so will be doing it lying underneath,
>> the 2" lift should help a bit.
>> Any pointers much appreciated
>>

>
> It needs a thorough chassis hot pressure washing first off. Then let dry
> then inject waxoyl into chassis box sections using the amazing number of
> holes then spray the external chassis, axle and under floor area. Avoid
> brake discs by covering them in sacking.
> Ideally you would use a lift. Less ideally a chain attached to an
> upside-down tow ball and the rear lifted by an industrial loader until the
> nose touches the ground [not forgetting the use of safety props]. You
> would also use compressed air and proper tools to apply the product rather
> than the inadequate freebies supplied by Waxoyl.
>
> Forget the clear stuff. Only the black is worth the effort.
>
> Huw
>



 

"StaffBull" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Mmm! sounds like a job for the pro's then!!!
>


I don't know of any 'professional' that would thoroughly wash the chassis.
It
is a pig of a job to clean all the nooks and crannies and very few have a
lift in a washbay. I can guarantee that you, if you are a thorough and
fastidious chap, that you will do a much better job than anyone else, unless
you are almost useless, lift gear permitting.
All other tools can be rented by the day from your local tool hire depot.
The whole job can be done in a day. The only tricky bit is the lifting to
wash and waxoyl thoroughly. It is a nasty dirty job though and if you do
like to stay clean then you will not like it. However, many people have to
do things they do not like so you may as well get on with it.

Huw



 
I cant see any way of lifting it around here - 2.tonne up on it's nose !!
seems daunting and the law of sod says something will go wrong!
"Huw" <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "StaffBull" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>> Mmm! sounds like a job for the pro's then!!!
>>

>
> I don't know of any 'professional' that would thoroughly wash the chassis.
> It
> is a pig of a job to clean all the nooks and crannies and very few have a
> lift in a washbay. I can guarantee that you, if you are a thorough and
> fastidious chap, that you will do a much better job than anyone else,
> unless
> you are almost useless, lift gear permitting.
> All other tools can be rented by the day from your local tool hire depot.
> The whole job can be done in a day. The only tricky bit is the lifting to
> wash and waxoyl thoroughly. It is a nasty dirty job though and if you do
> like to stay clean then you will not like it. However, many people have to
> do things they do not like so you may as well get on with it.
>
> Huw
>
>
>



 

"StaffBull" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I cant see any way of lifting it around here - 2.tonne up on it's nose !!


A JCB and large towing chain borrowed for the weekend?



> seems daunting and the law of sod says something will go wrong!


I can just see the chain breaking while you are steaming the front
crossmember 0-)

Huw


 
It would be one way to stop spending money on it !!!

It's not that bad really - cost so far £5400 - that includes the car, full
service 2" lift kit and full stainless exhaust, seems to turn a lot more
heads than a £30K motor!, could just be the noise though !!!



"Huw" <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>
> "StaffBull" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>>I cant see any way of lifting it around here - 2.tonne up on it's nose !!

>
> A JCB and large towing chain borrowed for the weekend?
>
>
>
>> seems daunting and the law of sod says something will go wrong!

>
> I can just see the chain breaking while you are steaming the front
> crossmember 0-)
>
> Huw
>
>



 
"StaffBull" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> I want to waxoyl my 96 ES disco V8.
>
> Is it just a case of getting the pump type thingy and
> spraying it on ( sounds too simple) does it have to be warm
> weather ? where do i need to inject the chassis ?
> I also have no access to a ramp/pit so will be doing it
> lying underneath, the 2" lift should help a bit.
> Any pointers much appreciated


I can honestly say I didn't find this as difficult as I was led
to believe it might be.

I chose a hot day in summer. I spent some time washing the
underside of the vehicle (over several days) before beginning
with a power washer. I also drilled a couple of holes at the
lowest point of the chassis to let the water drain out. I ran a
lot of water through the chassis, poking up a bit of wire to
remove all loose rust. I then left it to dry, again on a hot
breezy summer's day.

I got the dog's boiler going (I have a kennels) and popped the
tin of Waxoyl in about three inches of water so it could really
warm up. I also made sure I had some white spirit handy to put
through the sprayer thingy every time it started to clog or I
stopped for a cup of tea.

The sprayer thingy is quite good -- if you keep it working by
warming up the Waxoyl and running through some white spirit when
it begins to slow down. Push the extension tube into every
crevice and hole with the spray tip set to wide, then pump as
you slowly pull it back out.

So far minimal signs of rust from the inside of the rear cross
member which was red with rust before I started. The outside of
the cross member was wire brushed and painted with POR15 before
I started with the Waxoyl. It does exactly what it says on the
tin!

Derry
 
In article <[email protected]>, Derry Argue
wrote:
>
> The sprayer thingy is quite good -- if you keep it working by
> warming up the Waxoyl and running through some white spirit when
> it begins to slow down. Push the extension tube into every
> crevice and hole with the spray tip set to wide, then pump as
> you slowly pull it back out.
>
> So far minimal signs of rust from the inside of the rear cross
> member which was red with rust before I started. The outside of
> the cross member was wire brushed and painted with POR15 before
> I started with the Waxoyl. It does exactly what it says on the
> tin!
>
> Derry


I did similar to Derry. The rear crossmember got derusted and cleaned, then
coated with two lots of POR15 followed by black Hammerite. A coat is needed
over the POR15 because it isn't UV stable and will deteriorate in sunlight.

I then used the Waxoyl stirrup pump type thing that works with the small
drums. I waited until one of the hottest days last summer and left the
drum in a bucket of hot water for half hour before spraying.

The pump works very well and I had no trouble at all, no clogging, no
blocking.


If you ever use POR15, heed the warning on the tin about not getting it on
your skin, or anything else for that matter. It will not come off.


--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.
 
Stand can in boiling water before oyu use it, try to get a proper spray gun
of some type if you can, drill holes ( carefully ) to get to difficult bits
eg bulkheads,

Understanding friends as you will smell like s,,,t and don't smoke for a
while or you will resemble your pooch .... Woof

"StaffBull" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I want to waxoyl my 96 ES disco V8.
>
> Is it just a case of getting the pump type thingy and spraying it on (
> sounds too simple) does it have to be warm weather ?
> where do i need to inject the chassis ?
> I also have no access to a ramp/pit so will be doing it lying underneath,
> the 2" lift should help a bit.
> Any pointers much appreciated
>
>



 
I did both our 90 and Discovery before the winter. A good pressure wash off
and then let it dry for sveral days. I left each one in the garage when it
was raining to help keep the damp off. I lifted the front and back and put
axle stands under as high as they would go. Cover the brakes with a dustbin
sack and try to cover as much of the exhaust as possible. Stand the tin in a
bowl of hot water. I bought a 'shutz' gun to spray but even with a low
pressure it just blew it everywhere so I used the pump up waxoyl gun. Got a
good even coat on it.
The last time I did the Discovery was about 5 years ago and it had lasted
pretty good.
Also, do inside the chassis with the probe.
Richard
ps. cover the floor with some paper/old dustsheets


"StaffBull" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I want to waxoyl my 96 ES disco V8.
>
> Is it just a case of getting the pump type thingy and spraying it on (
> sounds too simple) does it have to be warm weather ?
> where do i need to inject the chassis ?
> I also have no access to a ramp/pit so will be doing it lying underneath,
> the 2" lift should help a bit.
> Any pointers much appreciated
>



 
Did the replacment bulkhead I fitted to my 90 with waxoyl, stunk for a few
weeks after when it was hot (heater) but smells gone now :O)


 


> If you ever use POR15, heed the warning on the tin about not getting it on
> your skin, or anything else for that matter. It will not come off.

300Tdi

True but then you don't need a raincoat :)))


 
In article <[email protected]>, Hirsty's wrote:
>
>
>> If you ever use POR15, heed the warning on the tin about not getting it on
>> your skin, or anything else for that matter. It will not come off.

> 300Tdi
>
> True but then you don't need a raincoat :)))
>


And you won't go rusty either!


--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.
 

"Derry Argue" <derry(delete)@adviegundogs.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "StaffBull" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> I want to waxoyl my 96 ES disco V8.
>>
>> Is it just a case of getting the pump type thingy and
>> spraying it on ( sounds too simple) does it have to be warm
>> weather ? where do i need to inject the chassis ?
>> I also have no access to a ramp/pit so will be doing it
>> lying underneath, the 2" lift should help a bit.
>> Any pointers much appreciated

>
> I can honestly say I didn't find this as difficult as I was led
> to believe it might be.
>
> I chose a hot day in summer. I spent some time washing the
> underside of the vehicle (over several days) before beginning
> with a power washer. I also drilled a couple of holes at the
> lowest point of the chassis to let the water drain out. I ran a
> lot of water through the chassis, poking up a bit of wire to
> remove all loose rust. I then left it to dry, again on a hot
> breezy summer's day.
>
> I got the dog's boiler going (I have a kennels) and popped the
> tin of Waxoyl in about three inches of water so it could really
> warm up. I also made sure I had some white spirit handy to put
> through the sprayer thingy every time it started to clog or I
> stopped for a cup of tea.
>
> The sprayer thingy is quite good -- if you keep it working by
> warming up the Waxoyl and running through some white spirit when
> it begins to slow down. Push the extension tube into every
> crevice and hole with the spray tip set to wide, then pump as
> you slowly pull it back out.
>
> So far minimal signs of rust from the inside of the rear cross
> member which was red with rust before I started. The outside of
> the cross member was wire brushed and painted with POR15 before
> I started with the Waxoyl. It does exactly what it says on the
> tin!
>
> Derry


I did my new bulkhead before I fitted it..... hung upside down from the
garage roof and pour! Wait 1/2 hour and turn right way up, with a LOT of
absorbent material underneath and leave overnight.
Horrible, horrible messy stuff to work with but it does what it says on the
tin.
Badger.

P.S. Derry, I worked out where you live from your email address, I can
understand why you wouldn't be over impressed with your local landy
specialist up the hill behind you........ the word rogue springs to mind,
except it isn't a bad enough description!
In your line of work, do you know a bloke by the name of Pete Boulton?


 
"Angus McCoatup" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Did the replacment bulkhead I fitted to my 90 with waxoyl, stunk
> for a few
> weeks after when it was hot (heater) but smells gone now :O)
>

I hope the Landy's ok too!


 
"Badger" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Derry, I worked out where you live from your email
> address, I can
> understand why you wouldn't be over impressed with your
> local landy specialist up the hill behind you........ the
> word rogue springs to mind, except it isn't a bad enough
> description!


If we are talking about the same guy, I have absolutely no
complaints, rather the reverse. No, the rogue trader is in
Inverness.

I am probably a fool but I take people on face value until I
discover otherwise. If we are talking about the same guy, he has
just done the timing belt on my 300 Tdi. I got the conversion
kit for him to fit as it is listed as one of the affected vin
numbers.

But apparently it is not one of those affected. (He predicted it
wouldn't be). It already has the flanged pulley. Now there was
an excellent opportunity for a "rogue" to tell me he had fitted
the new parts -- then kept my kit for another job. But he
didn't.

It is dangerous to defame people unless there is proof that will
stand up in court. Also, for a successful action in defamation
it is enough that the person can be identified, he doesn't have
to be named. Just some friendly advice. You may bet that I have
that evidence concerning my business with the Inverness garage
or I would have kept my mouth firmly shut!<g>

IANAL

Derry
 
"Badger" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> Derry, I worked out where you live from your email
> address, I can
> understand why you wouldn't be over impressed with your
> local landy specialist up the hill behind you........ the
> word rogue springs to mind, except it isn't a bad enough
> description!


Badger,

Further to my post earlier today, I think you have got it wrong!
Just shows how careful one should be!

I live near Tain, in Easter Ross, and left Advie about 35 years
ago. I just took the name of the village as the affix for my
kennels.

I know who you mean but have no experience either way. I was
offered a rear tub but got one from England instead. Make of
that what you will.

Take care -- and I mean that most sincerely.<g>

Derry
 

"Derry Argue" <derry(delete)@adviegundogs.co.uk> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> "Badger" <[email protected]> wrote in
> news:[email protected]:
>
>> Derry, I worked out where you live from your email
>> address, I can
>> understand why you wouldn't be over impressed with your
>> local landy specialist up the hill behind you........ the
>> word rogue springs to mind, except it isn't a bad enough
>> description!

>
> If we are talking about the same guy, I have absolutely no
> complaints, rather the reverse. No, the rogue trader is in
> Inverness.
>
> I am probably a fool but I take people on face value until I
> discover otherwise. If we are talking about the same guy, he has
> just done the timing belt on my 300 Tdi. I got the conversion
> kit for him to fit as it is listed as one of the affected vin
> numbers.
>
> But apparently it is not one of those affected. (He predicted it
> wouldn't be). It already has the flanged pulley. Now there was
> an excellent opportunity for a "rogue" to tell me he had fitted
> the new parts -- then kept my kit for another job. But he
> didn't.


Well, that's nice to know. Seems like he's changed then, I'm glad to hear it
'cos I actually quite like the guy!

> It is dangerous to defame people unless there is proof that will
> stand up in court. Also, for a successful action in defamation
> it is enough that the person can be identified, he doesn't have
> to be named. Just some friendly advice. You may bet that I have
> that evidence concerning my business with the Inverness garage
> or I would have kept my mouth firmly shut!<g>


He did a chassis change for me many, many years ago at his previous place
further down the road, it took 2 days to "put to rights" all his mistakes
and bad workmanship. He scratched all the roof above the doors where he
slung the body off (with chains, and nothing protecting the guttering, seals
or paint!!), left brake pipe unions untightened - I lost the brakes on the
way home!!, didn't bleed the clutch properly, the main battery lead to the
starter was unsecure, it welded itself to the underside of the r/h exhaust
manifold - the only thing that stopped the vehicle going on fire was the
fact that the battery terminals weren't tightened, I managed to pull the
negative off to break the circuit but burnt my hand in the process. I was
absolutely fuming at the time, he got a rocket from me over the phone at the
time and told where he could stick the extra that he was due (an extra
hundred quid or so had miraculously worked its way into the fixed price
quote!), unless he wanted me to go to trading standards. I never spoke to
him or dealt with him again until about 4 years ago. I see him maybe once a
year, only if I can't source a part from elsewhere. But, for all that, I do
actually find him quite a likeable sort of bloke. I get on ok with him now,
that whole carry on doesn't even get mentioned anymore, but I still wouldn't
trust him to work on any motor of mine ever again.
That's the factual evidence that I relate to when I criticise/defame him,
plenty of photos were taken at the time as proof in case it went any
further. I'm not that stupid. <grin>
Badger.


 
"Badger" <[email protected]> wrote in
news:[email protected]:

> He did a chassis change for me many, many years ago at his
> previous place further down the road, it took 2 days to
> "put to rights" all his mistakes and bad workmanship.


Please see my follow up post number 142011!!

We are talking about two different people. I have not lived on
Speyside, where I suspect your mechanic is located, for over 35
years!

The guy "up on the hill" near me from Tain, Easter Ross, has
been 100% straight and honest with me. He has done LR work for
me as well as leasing my summer grazing during 2004. No problems
whatsoever.

Two completely different people.

Derry
 
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