I want to waxoyl my 96 ES disco V8.

Is it just a case of getting the pump type thingy and spraying it on (
sounds too simple) does it have to be warm weather ?
where do i need to inject the chassis ?
I also have no access to a ramp/pit so will be doing it lying underneath,
the 2" lift should help a bit.
Any pointers much appreciated

"StaffBull" <StaffBull@spamtrap.staffbull.net> wrote in message
news:ctouqo$lk6$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...
>I want to waxoyl my 96 ES disco V8.
>
> Is it just a case of getting the pump type thingy and spraying it on (
> sounds too simple) does it have to be warm weather ?
> where do i need to inject the chassis ?
> I also have no access to a ramp/pit so will be doing it lying underneath,
> the 2" lift should help a bit.
> Any pointers much appreciated
>

It needs a thorough chassis hot pressure washing first off. Then let dry
then inject waxoyl into chassis box sections using the amazing number of
holes then spray the external chassis, axle and under floor area. Avoid
brake discs by covering them in sacking.
Ideally you would use a lift. Less ideally a chain attached to an
upside-down tow ball and the rear lifted by an industrial loader until the
nose touches the ground [not forgetting the use of safety props]. You would
also use compressed air and proper tools to apply the product rather than
the inadequate freebies supplied by Waxoyl.

Forget the clear stuff. Only the black is worth the effort.

Huw

Mmm! sounds like a job for the pro's then!!!



"Huw" <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:36ae6fF4tborfU1@individual.net...
>
> "StaffBull" <StaffBull@spamtrap.staffbull.net> wrote in message
> news:ctouqo$lk6$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...
>>I want to waxoyl my 96 ES disco V8.
>>
>> Is it just a case of getting the pump type thingy and spraying it on (
>> sounds too simple) does it have to be warm weather ?
>> where do i need to inject the chassis ?
>> I also have no access to a ramp/pit so will be doing it lying underneath,
>> the 2" lift should help a bit.
>> Any pointers much appreciated
>>
>
> It needs a thorough chassis hot pressure washing first off. Then let dry
> then inject waxoyl into chassis box sections using the amazing number of
> holes then spray the external chassis, axle and under floor area. Avoid
> brake discs by covering them in sacking.
> Ideally you would use a lift. Less ideally a chain attached to an
> upside-down tow ball and the rear lifted by an industrial loader until the
> nose touches the ground [not forgetting the use of safety props]. You
> would also use compressed air and proper tools to apply the product rather
> than the inadequate freebies supplied by Waxoyl.
>
> Forget the clear stuff. Only the black is worth the effort.
>
> Huw
>

"StaffBull" <StaffBull@spamtrap.staffbull.net> wrote in message
news:ctp060$mmh$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...
> Mmm! sounds like a job for the pro's then!!!
>

I don't know of any 'professional' that would thoroughly wash the chassis.
It
is a pig of a job to clean all the nooks and crannies and very few have a
lift in a washbay. I can guarantee that you, if you are a thorough and
fastidious chap, that you will do a much better job than anyone else, unless
you are almost useless, lift gear permitting.
All other tools can be rented by the day from your local tool hire depot.
The whole job can be done in a day. The only tricky bit is the lifting to
wash and waxoyl thoroughly. It is a nasty dirty job though and if you do
like to stay clean then you will not like it. However, many people have to
do things they do not like so you may as well get on with it.

Huw

I cant see any way of lifting it around here - 2.tonne up on it's nose !!
seems daunting and the law of sod says something will go wrong!
"Huw" <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:36af9kF4v8mpvU1@individual.net...
>
> "StaffBull" <StaffBull@spamtrap.staffbull.net> wrote in message
> news:ctp060$mmh$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...
>> Mmm! sounds like a job for the pro's then!!!
>>
>
> I don't know of any 'professional' that would thoroughly wash the chassis.
> It
> is a pig of a job to clean all the nooks and crannies and very few have a
> lift in a washbay. I can guarantee that you, if you are a thorough and
> fastidious chap, that you will do a much better job than anyone else,
> unless
> you are almost useless, lift gear permitting.
> All other tools can be rented by the day from your local tool hire depot.
> The whole job can be done in a day. The only tricky bit is the lifting to
> wash and waxoyl thoroughly. It is a nasty dirty job though and if you do
> like to stay clean then you will not like it. However, many people have to
> do things they do not like so you may as well get on with it.
>
> Huw
>
>
>

"StaffBull" <StaffBull@spamtrap.staffbull.net> wrote in message
news:ctp1ed$v0e$1@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk...
>I cant see any way of lifting it around here - 2.tonne up on it's nose !!

A JCB and large towing chain borrowed for the weekend?



> seems daunting and the law of sod says something will go wrong!

I can just see the chain breaking while you are steaming the front
crossmember 0-)

Huw

It would be one way to stop spending money on it !!!

It's not that bad really - cost so far £5400 - that includes the car, full
service 2" lift kit and full stainless exhaust, seems to turn a lot more
heads than a £30K motor!, could just be the noise though !!!



"Huw" <hedydd[nospam]@tiscali.co.uk> wrote in message
news:36ag0qF52aqjvU2@individual.net...
>
> "StaffBull" <StaffBull@spamtrap.staffbull.net> wrote in message
> news:ctp1ed$v0e$1@newsg3.svr.pol.co.uk...
>>I cant see any way of lifting it around here - 2.tonne up on it's nose !!
>
> A JCB and large towing chain borrowed for the weekend?
>
>
>
>> seems daunting and the law of sod says something will go wrong!
>
> I can just see the chain breaking while you are steaming the front
> crossmember 0-)
>
> Huw
>
>

"StaffBull" <StaffBull@spamtrap.staffbull.net> wrote in
news:ctouqo$lk6$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk:

> I want to waxoyl my 96 ES disco V8.
>
> Is it just a case of getting the pump type thingy and
> spraying it on ( sounds too simple) does it have to be warm
> weather ? where do i need to inject the chassis ?
> I also have no access to a ramp/pit so will be doing it
> lying underneath, the 2" lift should help a bit.
> Any pointers much appreciated

I can honestly say I didn't find this as difficult as I was led
to believe it might be.

I chose a hot day in summer. I spent some time washing the
underside of the vehicle (over several days) before beginning
with a power washer. I also drilled a couple of holes at the
lowest point of the chassis to let the water drain out. I ran a
lot of water through the chassis, poking up a bit of wire to
remove all loose rust. I then left it to dry, again on a hot
breezy summer's day.

I got the dog's boiler going (I have a kennels) and popped the
tin of Waxoyl in about three inches of water so it could really
warm up. I also made sure I had some white spirit handy to put
through the sprayer thingy every time it started to clog or I
stopped for a cup of tea.

The sprayer thingy is quite good -- if you keep it working by
warming up the Waxoyl and running through some white spirit when
it begins to slow down. Push the extension tube into every
crevice and hole with the spray tip set to wide, then pump as
you slowly pull it back out.

So far minimal signs of rust from the inside of the rear cross
member which was red with rust before I started. The outside of
the cross member was wire brushed and painted with POR15 before
I started with the Waxoyl. It does exactly what it says on the
tin!

Derry

In article <Xns95F0EF8FD8292derryadviegundogscou@130.133.1.4> , Derry Argue
wrote:
>
> The sprayer thingy is quite good -- if you keep it working by
> warming up the Waxoyl and running through some white spirit when
> it begins to slow down. Push the extension tube into every
> crevice and hole with the spray tip set to wide, then pump as
> you slowly pull it back out.
>
> So far minimal signs of rust from the inside of the rear cross
> member which was red with rust before I started. The outside of
> the cross member was wire brushed and painted with POR15 before
> I started with the Waxoyl. It does exactly what it says on the
> tin!
>
> Derry

I did similar to Derry. The rear crossmember got derusted and cleaned, then
coated with two lots of POR15 followed by black Hammerite. A coat is needed
over the POR15 because it isn't UV stable and will deteriorate in sunlight.

I then used the Waxoyl stirrup pump type thing that works with the small
drums. I waited until one of the hottest days last summer and left the
drum in a bucket of hot water for half hour before spraying.

The pump works very well and I had no trouble at all, no clogging, no
blocking.


If you ever use POR15, heed the warning on the tin about not getting it on
your skin, or anything else for that matter. It will not come off.


--
simon at sbarr dot demon dot co dot uk
Simon Barr.
'97 110 300Tdi.

Stand can in boiling water before oyu use it, try to get a proper spray gun
of some type if you can, drill holes ( carefully ) to get to difficult bits
eg bulkheads,

Understanding friends as you will smell like s,,,t and don't smoke for a
while or you will resemble your pooch .... Woof

"StaffBull" <StaffBull@spamtrap.staffbull.net> wrote in message
news:ctouqo$lk6$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...
> I want to waxoyl my 96 ES disco V8.
>
> Is it just a case of getting the pump type thingy and spraying it on (
> sounds too simple) does it have to be warm weather ?
> where do i need to inject the chassis ?
> I also have no access to a ramp/pit so will be doing it lying underneath,
> the 2" lift should help a bit.
> Any pointers much appreciated
>
>