there is a slot in the pump gear and a hole in the backing plate which
when the timing gears are lined up will pass the pump gear hole over a
hole in the pump body , in which you locate a pin in order to lock pump
and shaft in position .
this is all done with No1 cyl at top dead centre .
the locking pin is about 10mm diameter and so you can use a drill if
you like to lock the pump in place .
the 3 bolts in the pump gear are there to allow the gear to move and
align itself in the timing belt without altering the injector pump
timing , however when tensiong a new timing belt you may alter the cam
timing by a very small amount but this is normal and seems not to be
worried about to some degree ..
the woodruff key on the crankshaft will be at 12 clock position when
engine is at top dead centre and the camshaft gear aligns with mark on
block .
if you take off top of rocker cover you can watch the rockers moving as
you turn engine over by hand and when No1 cyl is at top dead centre
neither rocker on No1 cylinder will be moving , if they are rocking you
need to go one more turn over until both are closed and note the crank
keyway to come up to 12 oclock , ie directly on top towards sky .
in gearbox bellhousing underneath the landrover , is a tapped hole ,
when engine is at top dead centre youll see a slot in the flywheel
aligns with centre of hole, this needs to be locked also, using a pin .
if you were to buy either a DIFFLOCK timing pin & puller kit at 99
quid , it has all pins and pullers necessary to retime landy diesels
from N/ A 200/300TDI , or if you look on internet there are BERGEN
timing pin kits available for landys .
youll need a crank pulley puller to remove the crank harmonic
damper/pulley and a 27mm socket to undo the crank pulley retaining bolt
..
you can screw the crank bolt back in so you can turn engine over for
timing purposes, no need to remove glow plugs , you can turn engine
over using knuckle bar and socket .
dont forget to tighten the crank pulley bolt nice and tight after .
to get crank pulley bolt undone , a sharp blow with lump hammer to
knuckle bar will loosen it .
use a little loctite on the thread when you reinstall crank bolt .
dont forget to remove the flywheel locking pin before you rotate engine
..
no need to remove timing belt in order to retime injector pump so long
as you havent rotated it by more than the gear slot allows .
if you are not intending on taking crank pulley etc off to adjust
injector pump timing , then watch rockers on no1 cyl to indicate
coming up to top dead, look under gearbox housing hole and line up
flywheel slot and lock in place if poss , then loosen 3 pump gear bolts
and rotate pump shaft locking nut back so to align with timing pin
hole and lock in place with pin .
then you can retighten 3 pump gear bolts and remove locking pins .
if you find the power is very high but you have lots of black smoke
from exhaust at all ranges , undo the fuel metering screw on rear of
pump and go out 1/4 turn at a time until smoke dissappears .
youll have to strike balance between power and smoke and so it may take
a few attempts to get satisfactory .
this screw is on rear of pum near the injector pipe unions , it has a
13mm locknut and a screwthread extending out about 25mm , there is
screwdriver slot in end of thread , you hold locknut loose with spanner
and then unscrew or screw the thread in or out as desired .
IN for more fuel, OUT for less .
the "smoke adjuster" is on top of pump housing,there is a small [gold]
blanking cap [15mm dia] on top of casting which has the 4 screws in ,
pry cap out with screwdriver and youll see 13mm locknut with a 8mm TORX
grub screw , this screw is screwed in for more fuel and out for less ,
locknut may be loctited and so might need a bit of effort to undo .
inside pump, under top casting , ie the housing on top of pump which
has 4 screws holding it down , is a diaphragm and shaft and a starwheel
adjuster which alters fuel delivery rates .
the metal plate holding rubber diaphragm has a dot mark on it and the
diaphragm can be rotated to change fuel metering rates , this will be
pointing somewhere between 12 oclock [to rocker cover] and 6 oclock
[towards wing ] , the leanest position is towards rocker cover and
richest towards wing .
just take it that youll position it somewhere from 12 oclock to 6
oclock , it does not screw in and out but rotates around a 360deg axis
..
you can pull the diaphragm assembly out by hand , in one piece with
rubber and shaft attatched .
on shaft youll note a tapered and eccentric shape of shaft , this
rests against a pin down in the pump itself and alters fuel rates
according to position the taper or eccentric is in .
the turbo boost pressure is applied upon diaphragm via pipe on side of
top housing and thus pushes shaft down using the diaphragm , allowing
pin in pump to come in and allow more fuel thru as revs and boost
pressure increase etc .
under diaphragm youll see large spring , this is just placed in there
and can be removed/reinstalled easily .
under spring youll see a starwheel adjuster , this has a click stop
adjustment and if you pry the lock spring using screwdriver you can
rotate the starwheel .
to lessen spring pressure effect of starwheel you will screw the
starwheel in clockwise , but only about 1/2 turn at a time and noting
smoke from exhaust [under load] after adjustment .
to lessen spring effect you undo the starwheel .
this starwheel alters the spring pressure against the diaphragm and
alters where the turbo boost is allowed to move the diaphragm downwards
to increase fuel flow .
basically only minor adjustment of starwheel should need to be made ,
if any adjustment .
there is a white nylon spacer on the metering shaft and dont forget to
make sure it is still fitted when refitting metering shaft/diaphragm
and spring assembly , as it stops length of travel of metering shaft .
the main adjustment that makes most difference is the full load
adjustment on rear of pump , if unscrewed too far youll note lack of
pull when in top gear at low [25mph ] speed when on flat road .
hope that is easy enough to understand.
ive been adjusting my pump for maximum economy , so all my adjustments
have been in reverse .
previous owner screwed everything IN , yes it went like stink but i
only got 23mpg locally and lees on motorway driving .
cheers , ian .
..
