Whos booked a Waxoyl then?

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I did mine thoroughly in the summer of 2013 and gave it a touch up a few weeks back when the weather was still warm. Should be OK through the winter. I'm more of a Dinitrol enthusiast myself but it's the same sort of thing.
 
Booking?!?! Pfft its easier to do it yourself!

That is what I said to myself a few weeks ago and here I am now, the rain is heavy and consistant, and I wished I booked it in to be done properly :crutch:
 
Booking?!?! Pfft its easier to do it yourself!

That is what I said to myself a few weeks ago and here I am now, the rain is heavy and consistant, and I wished I booked it in to be done properly :crutch:


Woudnt fret over it to much, mate. The weather has been mild, so no road salt yet. And when you do get to it you will be thorough, because it is your own motor! :)

The professional places are a mixed bag, some of the cheaper ones don't do a particularly thorough job, from what I have seen. ;)
 
Woudnt fret over it to much, mate. The weather has been mild, so no road salt yet. And when you do get to it you will be thorough, because it is your own motor! :)

The professional places are a mixed bag, some of the cheaper ones don't do a particularly thorough job, from what I have seen. ;)


+1 seen some abortions of jobs done always tend to do mine myself
 
What's the best way of injecting the chassis, do you need a compressor or is there an alternative, been told mixing the waxoil with old engine oil to thin it down is a good idea
 
What's the best way of injecting the chassis, do you need a compressor or is there an alternative, been told mixing the waxoil with old engine oil to thin it down is a good idea

Good hand sprayer is adequate if you use Dinitrol. a much better product than Waxoyl, and much easier to spray.
It helps if you have a flexible pipe to go on the nozzle, block up the end, and pierce some holes in the side of the pipe so that the stuff sprays out sideways.
Sump oil has some acids in it, it might be better to use used trans oil if you want to do this, it doesn't have acids and combustion products in it.
 
Cheers for that! Do you need to "water" down the Dentrol to do that? If so with what? Do you have a pic or a link to a hand sprayer so I can see what you mean

Dinitrol ML3125 is for inside cavities and box sections, it runs like water, doesn't need any thinning, just pour it into the sprayer and spray. I block up the drain holes in the chassis with epoxy putty first, and drive around after spraying. They do another product, think it is 4194, that is thicker for outside of chassis.

I don't have any pics, my sprayer is about 50 years old, just a pump sprayer with a hose and a metal tube with a spray nozzle. Google hand/pump sprayers, try and get one that is resistant to oil and chemicals. Have a look in garden centres and motor factors too.
 
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how do you get it a distance into the chassis. an extension tube?

Yes, plastic tube worked over the sprayer tube with hot water. I block the end of the tube, and pierce the side of the tube at the end with a large hot needle. ideal to lower down into door pillars through the hinge holes, or you can tape to to a wire and work it along inside chassis section. :)

I actually got the idea from the extension probe that comes with Waxoyl hand sprayers, but mine is a bit more robust.
 
Brilliant, thanks for that, that's the next job, had it waxoyled when I got it last feb but I don't think he did inside the chassis so better had so it, prevention is better and all that!
 
Brilliant, thanks for that, that's the next job, had it waxoyled when I got it last feb but I don't think he did inside the chassis so better had so it, prevention is better and all that!

Inside is the most important. I don't use the stuff on the outside, I scrape down the chassis and paint with red oxide and enamel.

If you think there will be a lot of mud and crap inside your chassis, try and wash it out first with a pressure washer or a hose. Then let it dry as best you can, a drive around on a hot day will help. Then blast in loads of Dinitrol through all the holes, you can drill a few extra holes in the top or sides of the chassis if needed, and you can get little plastic plugs to seal the holes after :)
 
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