Tank Fuel Pump Template P38

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Canyon

New Member
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Location
London
This is what I manged to do a while ago when I needed to replace my In-tank fuel pump on my P38 Diesel.
I have attached pictures ( phone camera ) which show the EXACT dimensions which you can follow if you need to replace your pump without dropping the fuel tank.
I did make many measurements before I decided to make any cuts. I think this the optimal amount of cutting required without loosing structural strength, minimising noise and having adequate access.
My datum points are the centres of the bolts which hold down the rear 60% seat.
Tools I used were :
Dremel with a thin steel cutting disc. ( You could use a diamond disc )
Sharp knife ( I used a scalpel)
Stanley knife
Steel ruler
Tape Measure
Permanent marker
Paint Brush
Vacuum Cleaner
Hammer
Pump pliers
Bucket
Rags
Flat bladed screwdriver ( big one )

Cut the carpet away as shown ( I used a scalpel), try and be accurate as possible here, use a steel ruler to guide you as the metal hatch template is based on this cut.
You can then fold this carpet under the seat ( just move the seat back a little)
Next cut the foam sound proofing- I used a scalpel for this too. I cut it at an angle so it tucked itself under the foam next to it when i replaced it.

Next mark out the cut lines according to the photos.

After carefully marking out the cut lines, you will notice that the cutting surface has some Black tar substance applied ( which is sprayed over with the same colour as your car)
You will need to use a stanley knife and cut about 2 mm either side of your cut line, ( again I used a small metal ruler as a guide) then using a thin bladed screwdriver or very narrow chisel to chip this material away. You have to do this otherwise your steel cutting disc will get clogged.

After you have brushed away all the debris you can start to cut. ( use some safety goggles and a mask)
You can gauge how deep you are going by seeing how far the cutting disc is cutting through- the metal is only about 1mm - 1.5mm max
When cutting I made the first cut on the left hand side against the seat. There is a stiff bit of plastic here you will need to cut that up the seat aswell. ( I used a long bit of wood which i pushed up against the plastic and used my knee to hold it there whilst cutting.
Your Dremel will get hot, so take a break after 10 -15 mins, let it cool down and start again.
You should then be able to get your screwdriver under flap and prise it up.

Get a small paintbrush and brush the top of the tank and the recess to dislodge the years of rubbish and dust. Then get your vacuum to suck all the dust up ( you must have this area super clean- you dont anything dropping into tank especially metal dust! Do it a couple of times if you have to.
Next disconnect the multiplug, and remove the big breather pipe ( I manged to unclip and reuse the old securing clip- I used pump pliers.
Undo the 2 nuts using 2 spanners. You will probably have a lot of corrosion on these- i soaked them with WD40 and tapped them for about 10 mins- this will test your patience. The fuel lines are made of plastic and can be kinked so hold one nut steady- fuelside and turn the big nut to undo. I just slakened them off.
Next big screwdriver and a few gentle taps on the big retainer ring and unscrew by hand.
Make sure you have spare olives for the new pump- you cant reuse the old ones.
Undo all the connections.
Make sure you mark the flow and return.
You can plug the ends of the lines if you wish.
Pull out old pump.
Replace with new pump- insert pump the same way( orientation) as you Removed the old one.
Reconnect everything back.
Start engine and check for leaks

You can fold back the metal flap and put the foam back and run it for a few days and go back and check again for leaks.

I have to source some metal plates which I will rivet to the flap and use self tappers to secure . Then a bit of duct tape to cover it all up.
thats it.

Hope this helps.
 

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Very good work Canyon.
May you update this when you close the door please.
Mine hasn't been properly closed since 2 years without effects. Duct tape works well ;)
 
Actually what I did to close up the access hatch was to use a 2 part epoxy metal glue. I simply managed to hold the hatch lid flush and applied the resin, it sets in 10 mins. I think it's called cold weld for steel. If I need to remove then I can remove with a chisel, but I won't have any worries about water getting in from wading deep water or wet motorway runs.
 
thanks for that was very helpful, but for any one about to do this that has big hand to cut the hole 2-3 cm wider on both sides to make it easier to remove
 
Ok i did it!!! just took an hour at most, haven't got the part yet (it6s still in the post) despite me ordering it a week before the holidays, so i could do it this weekend, no such luck though, i got a thermostat as well, not a crap all makes ****part ect, its not a brand name, but they make them for Land Rover so its the same kit without the LR name on it and a LOT cheaper, £16 as opposed to near £60 (yea for a thermostat!) will fit it next week now when i get it, shouldn't be a problem, a lot of time saving and a lot less hassle doing it this way, thanks for the tips guys
 
Iv just searched this thread and its just what i need!

But mines a Petrol V8, is it still the same measurments?

Thanks Scott
 
Big thanks to Canyon ... it gave me the confidence to have a go ... I also cut the hole a little larger ... but I decided to remove back seat and pull up the carpet just to give me some more room.

Only thing I can add is ... I was a bit worried about cutting near the suspected pool of petrol on the top of the tank. So I got a cracking tool from Machine Mart - a hand nibbler about £10 - drilled a 1/4 hole with a hand drill (no sense of adventure) and just snipped 3 sides of the rectangle. No more than 5 mins! Although my hands ached for the rest of the evening! Not sure I'll ever use it again ... but can't wait to start cutting it's that much fun!

Now I've just got to fix the radio, aircon (not worked in 4 years), (weak probably soon to fail completely) air suspension, current drain over night (but I fitted a battery isolator and know the key code by heart), one electric window not working, loss of coolant, and more fault messages than Apollo 13 ... but apart from that she's great ... just want to start having a go off road ... it's got great tyres though!

By the way got an inspection camera to help find some faults in the past ... if anyone in BH area needs to borrow then happy to lend!
 
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Apologies for necroposting, just wanted to say thanks for this info. I just did this mod myself, and including doing the mod, it saved me hours compared how long it would have taken me to change the fuel pump by dropping the tank.

Only one point I feel should be made - when you are cutting along the ribs, always cut on the raised ribs - this is the only reason why I didn't cut through the fuel pump wiring loom with the angle grinder!
 
i still wonder how you did manage to remove the pump from such a small hole...

Any tips to remove the pump lock ring without the LR tool???

When i did mine 3 years ago, i dropped the tank then cutted the door...in case of future use. Glad i did!!

Lesson learnt : always replace fuel filter when replacing a pump:doh:
 
i still wonder how you did manage to remove the pump from such a small hole...

Any tips to remove the pump lock ring without the LR tool???

When i did mine 3 years ago, i dropped the tank then cutted the door...in case of future use. Glad i did!!

Lesson learnt : always replace fuel filter when replacing a pump:doh:

When I did mine this way I used a big Blunt screwdriver and a hammer. And just 'tapped' the lock ring round!

Make sure you use a Vacuum cleaner to hoover the loose bits of dirt and dust otherwise itl drop into your tank!

The pump easily fits through the hole...
 
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