P38 2.5 DSE help water pump removal

I have got as far as this but how do I get the pump out ? (the belt is loose by the way). Do I get the pulley wheel off the pump assembly - and if so how? Shall I use some PlusGas to release the wheel from the pump. Or can I tap the whole thing to loosen then lift out? All advice gratefully received. Thanks in advance..

Obviously rusted on. I think the pulley should just pull off now you have removed the bolts, The details will be in RAVE. Could try a gear puller on it I suppose.

use some WD40 and tap it with a hammer .

that worked fore me

OK thanks. I have some PlusGas which is a better releasing agent than WD40, so I'll give it a squirt tonight than a whack with a hammer in the morning.

Well I decided not to wait, especially as I had to change the head some time ago, I wanted to know the cause of my overheating now. THis is what a knackered waterpump looks like !! Phew !

nisbeam said:

Well I decided not to wait, especially as I had to change the head some time ago, I wanted to know the cause of my overheating now. THis is what a knackered waterpump looks like !! Phew !

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Make sure you find all the missing bits of plastic.

nisbeam said:

Well I decided not to wait, especially as I had to change the head some time ago, I wanted to know the cause of my overheating now. THis is what a knackered waterpump looks like !! Phew !

Click to expand...

I take it you will not be putting it in the Ebay part worn for sale section.

I'm not surprised it's in that state. You've been hitting it with a hammer!!

Ha ha very good.
I had a quote from my local LR dealer £140 but only £98 if I can part exchange
So just ordered one from P38 spares - £39 + P&P
How can LR justify that price, they can't honestly say their part is worth £100 more

Datatek - thanks for the reminder I just checked & there were 2 pieces right inside. My hands are not big but I could only touch them with the end of my finger. :doh:
Managed to get them out with latex gloves & a dab of superglue - see attached pic

nisbeam said:

Datatek - thanks for the reminder I just checked & there were 2 pieces right inside. My hands are not big but I could only touch them with the end of my finger. :doh:
Managed to get them out with latex gloves & a dab of superglue - see attached pic

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Take a look at Ebay item number. 280722582528 invaluable for the tool box. And dirt cheap.

Thanks Wammers just the job, I'll order one today, could have used that a few times in the past, better than my screwdriver with magnetic tip.

Might try it on the cat when he's swalllowed hair-balls

nisbeam said:

Thanks Wammers just the job, I'll order one today, could have used that a few times in the past, better than my screwdriver with magnetic tip.

Might try it on the cat when he's swalllowed hair-balls

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Yeah until someone comes up with a plastic, brass, aluminium and stainless steel magnet they are a must i find.

Id think about glueing all the broken parts back together to make sure youve got it all
A tiny piece could work its way round and block the thermostat,shag the new pump or even get stuck in the block and good luck getting that out

Well I got a new pump from P38 spares and... the impeller is made of metal not plastic !!! All fitted & no drips but... the water is not circulating

I don't think it is the thermostat as the heater is not warming up either and that should happen even before the thermostat opens. One side of the rad is getting hot (boiling hot) but not the other.

If it is a piece of plastic from the old pump stuck inside somewhere I wouldn't have thought it would block the flow altogether :doh:

So I expect to be stripping it down again and will put in a new thermostat & test the old one. If it works I suppose it's take the rad out next. But as the pump had destroyed itself it seems more likely that something may be stuck somewhere. Here we go again........

Considering the work that you're already doing and the cost of a rad versus a cracked head I'd be very tempted to replace the rad.

Yes - especially as I've already changed the head once ! But I want to make sure it is the rad first, I've swapped quite a few bit in the past only to find they weren't the cause of the problem.

IT'S FIXED ... I decided to use a bit of common sense, i.e. I know the pump was broken, so how could it be anything else, also I was pretty sure I had got to all of the bits. So I just had another go. Header cap off, I pumped the right hand hose from the rad I after a while I could feel the pressure difference in the left one. So I pumped a bit more & could hear some gurgling from somewhere. So revving up to 2000 rev a few time I also got the water level to drop. Topped up, a bit more hose squeezing, and I was able to add about litre by the time I finished. Also got the heater working !!. Just been for a test drive and the needle went up to about 11'0 clock as normal then dropped a little when slowing and back to tickover. So it was an airlock after all. Bye for now - 'till the next time