Newbie mileage question...

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tymh

New Member
Posts
18
Location
Lancaster
Hi guys (and gals!)

I'm ditching my beloved X-Type AWD in favour of an L322 vogue lpg. Mainly a question about mileages. I had and E Class many years ago which I sold at 202k miles so big numbers don't scare me if I know the pedigree's good.

With RR I don't know!

So... I've seen a few that say they've had engine rebuild (which gives me concern as to how it's been treated) and I see others at 120-150k miles... question is, does a RR L322 4.4 with 150k on the clock pose any immediate problems?
 
Hi guys (and gals!)

I'm ditching my beloved X-Type AWD in favour of an L322 vogue lpg. Mainly a question about mileages. I had and E Class many years ago which I sold at 202k miles so big numbers don't scare me if I know the pedigree's good.

With RR I don't know!

So... I've seen a few that say they've had engine rebuild (which gives me concern as to how it's been treated) and I see others at 120-150k miles... question is, does a RR L322 4.4 with 150k on the clock pose any immediate problems?
All L322'a pose problems, quite often immediate:eek:
Gearboxes, VANOS, water ingress into the electronics rear nearside quarter, suspension bushes, the list is endless.
 
Mines got over 160,000 and running as good as when i first got her 3 years ago. 2004 V8/LPG Autobiography. Mileage isn't the issue, it's whether it's had its gearbox oil changed regularly, lots of TLC and oil changes etc. Everything in mine works and its been looked after by the previous 2 owners.

forget FLRSH in my opinion, they are worthless. far better a regular indie who knows what they are doing. I am looking to get over 200,000 on mine and the previous owner but one wants to buy it back off me!
 
Mines got over 160,000 and running as good as when i first got her 3 years ago. 2004 V8/LPG Autobiography. Mileage isn't the issue, it's whether it's had its gearbox oil changed regularly, lots of TLC and oil changes etc. Everything in mine works and its been looked after by the previous 2 owners.

forget FLRSH in my opinion, they are worthless. far better a regular indie who knows what they are doing. I am looking to get over 200,000 on mine and the previous owner but one wants to buy it back off me!

Wow - sounds like just the kind of car I'm after myself! If I know they can handle it, I'm not bother by high mileage. My current X-Type AWD estate is at 138000 and other than needing a new o2 sensor and possibly a clutch in 6-12 months, is still very reliable.

Is the gearbox oil an easy diy job?
 
Wow - sounds like just the kind of car I'm after myself! If I know they can handle it, I'm not bother by high mileage. My current X-Type AWD estate is at 138000 and other than needing a new o2 sensor and possibly a clutch in 6-12 months, is still very reliable.

Is the gearbox oil an easy diy job?

Mines on 166k currently....

GB oil is simple, check my How To in the How To section....
 
Date of Liability 01 08 2014
Date of First Registration 26 09 2003
Year of Manufacture 2003
Cylinder Capacity (cc) 4398cc
CO₂ Emissions 389 g/km
Fuel Type PETROL
Export Marker N
Vehicle Status Licence Not Due
Vehicle Colour SILVER
Vehicle Type Approval M1

Hmmm... maybe the supercharged badge has just been stuck on! To be honest, I'm not bothered about that
 
'fraid so...

The SC model wasn't released until 2006 I think when they changed engines from BMW to Jag....

Still, you'll enjoy it and the N/A 4.4 is plenty pokey enough.....I even shock other drivers when I floor it, they just don't expect a 2.5 tonne lump to peel away from them, but that sound of 8 pots growling away does get addictive....enjoy it (and get yourself your own diagnostics - it'll save you a fortune)
 
'fraid so...

The SC model wasn't released until 2006 I think when they changed engines from BMW to Jag....

Still, you'll enjoy it and the N/A 4.4 is plenty pokey enough.....I even shock other drivers when I floor it, they just don't expect a 2.5 tonne lump to peel away from them, but that sound of 8 pots growling away does get addictive....enjoy it (and get yourself your own diagnostics - it'll save you a fortune)

Diagnostics?:confused:
 
Diagnostics?:confused:

Yep can't own a Range Rover and not have your own Diagnostic Tool....

I use the RSW All Comms - this is the cheaper end of the market but also very powerful for what it is, I can recalibrate the Air Suspension, Adjust Lighting Module Functions, read and clear all faults within all systems on the car etc.

Going up in price there is the:
Bearmach Hawkeye (no EAS Calibration)
Britpart Lynx (New and mixed reports)
Gap Dagnostics IIDTool (Small and portable but needs a working dash display)
Faultmate FCR (Only reads and clears faults)
Snap-On Solus (Expensive but can do most things)
Faultmate Extreme (Fecking awesome and expensive)

There are others but these are the most common...prices start at £200 for the All Comms upto over £1000 for the Faultmate.

Having your own diagnostics will save you a fortune at a dealers....I have used mine on a few occasions as the L322 likes to throw faults at random times....
 
So you can look at the On Board Diagnostics, to see what fault codes might have been set, and look at the performance of various parameters.

Somebody will recommend a model of diagnostic machine (actually, you will probably get loads of conflicting advice), but I have recently got a very cheap alternative.

If you have a genuine OBD11 socket, somewhere around the steering column, then you can get a dongle on Amazon to plug in to it. This can then talk to an Android or iPhone phone or tablet running Torque Plus App.

The dongle costs about £7, and is the size of a packet of fags. The App costs £2.99.

So for about £10 you can get a device that will read the diagnostics on most modern cars.
 
That will only read engine specific faults and none of the other systems on the Range Rover...

I also use a generic OBDII scanner to read engine faults and reads some engine parameters, but using a dedicated LR specific Diagnostics device gives you better communications and also can access all the other systems on the vehicle.
 
So you can look at the On Board Diagnostics, to see what fault codes might have been set, and look at the performance of various parameters.

Somebody will recommend a model of diagnostic machine (actually, you will probably get loads of conflicting advice), but I have recently got a very cheap alternative.

If you have a genuine OBD11 socket, somewhere around the steering column, then you can get a dongle on Amazon to plug in to it. This can then talk to an Android or iPhone phone or tablet running Torque Plus App.

The dongle costs about £7, and is the size of a packet of fags. The App costs £2.99.

So for about £10 you can get a device that will read the diagnostics on most modern cars.

I already have an OBD2 code reader on my laptop. The diagnostics seems something more so may have a serious look at that once I have the car!
 
Hi guys (and gals!)

I'm ditching my beloved X-Type AWD in favour of an L322 vogue lpg. Mainly a question about mileages. I had and E Class many years ago which I sold at 202k miles so big numbers don't scare me if I know the pedigree's good.

With RR I don't know!

So... I've seen a few that say they've had engine rebuild (which gives me concern as to how it's been treated) and I see others at 120-150k miles... question is, does a RR L322 4.4 with 150k on the clock pose any immediate problems?

they have all kind of problems at all stages of there life weather its 20,000 on the clock or 150,000 that's just range rover for u. but a 4.4 engine would be good for 250,000 at least if its looked after. best way to see how good the car is, is by getting an AA/RAC inspection done before you buy, cost £300 ish for a 4.4L but they are very thorough well worth the money it could save you in repairs
 
on the diagnostics the gap II d now comes in a bluetooth version that works with an iphone or ipad so will work even if your dash display is a bit faded
 
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