EAS on windows 7

It does actualy work! I have seen plenty of debates on Windows 7 not working with the EAS software. You need to install the correct 'Driver' to make the USB port (Comm port) recognise the USB adapter! This is how i got mine to work......

I bought the lead and USB connector from here (Software came with it)Air Suspension Diagnostic Cable - Range Rover P38 EAS on eBay (end time 08-Jan-11 13:20:31 GMT)

Then follow this vid from storey wilson (third vid down) http://www.rswsolutions.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=section&layout=blog&id=10&Itemid=68

Follow the steps in the vid up to 2:24 then pause. (I used this vid so i didnt have to expain each step)

See where the drop down box says 'Update Driver'. Click Update Driver and select 'Update using Internet'. This will the automatically update and install the Driver you require!

Once the driver has installed you will see which 'Comm port' it is called ie. comm 3 displayed in brackets!

Job done, Driver installed. And you should now be able to use the software and leads on Windows 7!

Hope this helps if all you have is Window 7 (like me)

Oh and mines a 64bit version too

Scott

it works on 32 bit too, i just plugged in my rs232 to usb cable, and selected the com port that it was on in the software.

gavbriggs said:

it works on 32 bit too, i just plugged in my rs232 to usb cable, and selected the com port that it was on in the software.

Click to expand...

Yes mate its great only spending 25 quid and havin access to you EAS instead of spending a fortune at the dealer each time

i didnt even spend that, im sure its posted on here, i soldered the connector from and old serial mouse to the obd plug, correct wires obviously and tucked that up behind the panel for safe keeping, now i just plug it in to the usb/rs cable and off i go!!

The parts to make up the lead cost under £5.....!

Hi

I used the compatibility mode on mine. Ran without any problems. I also soldered the serial just behind the original plug. I have a flashdrive with the unlock program in the car, so wherever I go, I just use any pc to link up and unlock.

ice said:

The parts to make up the lead cost under £5.....!

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True, but I cant solder very well and for the sake of 25 quid......

Iv just got a couple of question about some bits on the software if someone could please help?

In thie first pic (on the Faults page) what is the purple 'Unlock EAS' button do?

Also in the second pic (on the Functions page) What is this page for?
Ie. what is the 'lock eas' and 'unlock eas' and all the 'orange' buttons do?

I proberly wont have to use these but it dunt hurt knowing what they do

Cheeers Scott

scott02464 said:

Iv just got a couple of question about some bits on the software if someone could please help?

In thie first pic (on the Faults page) what is the purple 'Unlock EAS' button do?

Also in the second pic (on the Functions page) What is this page for?
Ie. what is the 'lock eas' and 'unlock eas' and all the 'orange' buttons do?

I proberly wont have to use these but it dunt hurt knowing what they do

Cheeers Scott

Click to expand...

It unlocks EAS. Brings it out of solid fault state.

wammers said:

It unlocks EAS. Brings it out of solid fault state.

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Sorry mate, what does that mean by Unlocks it? And what does the solid fault mean?

LOL Not done this before so still learning

scott02464 said:

Sorry mate, what does that mean by Unlocks it? And what does the solid fault mean?

LOL Not done this before so still learning

Click to expand...

If you get the dreaded "35mph max" message, you have a hard EAS fault. The "Unlock EAS" button clears the fault and resets the EAS. Of course if you have not fixed the fault it will come back again.

Datatek said:

If you get the dreaded "35mph max" message, you have a hard EAS fault. The "Unlock EAS" button clears the fault and resets the EAS. Of course if you have not fixed the fault it will come back again.

Click to expand...

Thanks for that mate! Thats made it alot crearer

Regards Scott