Diesel good enough for off-road?

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Hello folks, I'm toying with the idea of getting a cheap P38 DSE I have previously owned a BMW E34 525TDS Tourer with the same engine. In the car the engine was very gutless at low revs until about 18,000 when the turbo starts to work. This was somewhat improved with a remapped pair of chips but I'm just a little worried that even with an autobox it might struggle a bit through the mud with the weight of a Range Rover to move around.

Can anyone put my mind at rest?

Cheers.
 
Hello folks, I'm toying with the idea of getting a cheap P38 DSE I have previously owned a BMW E34 525TDS Tourer with the same engine. In the car the engine was very gutless at low revs until about 18,000 when the turbo starts to work. This was somewhat improved with a remapped pair of chips but I'm just a little worried that even with an autobox it might struggle a bit through the mud with the weight of a Range Rover to move around.

Can anyone put my mind at rest?

Cheers.

yu mite have problems getting a landy to rev to 18000 rpm :doh:.
 
you will get the same in a p38.

struggle through the mud?
no, it has a low ratio gearbox. Mud is really not a problem.
 
Maybe that's why the BMW died...

So a diesel is going to be just as capable as the V8 model? Happy with that.
 
More than capable in the rough stuff....

The M51 in the Rangie was tuned for torque not speed, and it is torque that drags the car through mud.....

The Diesel Rangie has an odd throttle response which makes it seem slow or sluggish, but they do have enough uumph to get up and go when needed.

The Diesels are by far the more reliable of the trio, and more than capable off road.

Having a chip installed, does improve performance at the cost of fuel consumption, and there are reports of the added torque wrecking the Autobox.

The Auto's are better suited to the diesel's power curve as they don't do much before - as you say - 1800rpm....and the Auto masks this well whereas the manuals will need plenty of clutch slippage when towing and uphills at times.
 
I was hoping that the slushbox would soak things up and help the engine perform. Once up above 1800rpm, the BMW would really fly, hills were great fun! Not expecting that with the Rangie, looking for one more for plodding along in the scenery. After all, I do live on the edge of the Salisbury Plain. :)
 
Don't get me wrong the Diesel will move at a decent pace before 1800rpm, but to get it to sit up and pay attention, a little more persuasion is needed on the pedal....

I loved my Diesel P38 and the *only* reason I got the L322, was because it was at the right price, in the right condition at the right time....nothing else would of had me changing from it....the Diesel was by far the best of my P38's - yes I loved the two V8's I had, but the Diesel was just so willing to prove itself as a Range Rover it really wanted you to drive it - kinda hard to explain - but a brilliant machine....
 
SO pretty much a vote of 'buy with confidence' then?

What kind of fuel consumption did you get (on the road)?
 
SO pretty much a vote of 'buy with confidence' then?

What kind of fuel consumption did you get (on the road)?
Like any Rangie - buy the best you can and test drive loads - never buy one with faults unless you know what it costs or will take to repair, no matter what the seller says, he just wants to shift it. They are brilliant machines, but don't expect Japanese reliability....

I averaged 25.2mpg with a good mix of Motorway, Country and Town.

Short town trips will drink fuel - often as low as 14-16mpg, but you can achieve 30 odd on a run.

Get a good one and it will be the best car you will ever own - there are some horrors out there with stories to match, but look after it, learn it, and understand it - that way it won't take you by surprise....

Golden Rule: Buy with your head and not your heart - and never buy with faults unless you know the full story for the repair and the cost involved.
 
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I'm not going to be in a position to buy until I have finished and flogged a certain old mk3 Escort project that's been getting in the way of my life for a number of years now. It should be ready in a couple of months so I can put some miles on it as a shake down test ready to flog in the spring. In the meantime I plan to start looking at P38's to get a feel for the market and what to expect for my money.

I take it that there are no known rust issues with these?

From what I have learnt so far I'm looking for:

2.5 Turbo-Diesel
Auto Transmission
Coil Springs

With the possible added bonus of:
Tow-Bar
Air-Con
Wipe Clean Manual Leather Seats

Basically a strong low trouble potential model with perhaps the added luxury of working air-con. I can add a tow-bar myself and I don't know if manual leather seats are even available!

Cheer for all the help so far.
 
Rust is not a major issue on the P38 - that is one thing Land Rover did well on....

Go for Air Sprung - a coil conversion just shows lack of maintenance (or money following lots of mis diagnosed faults)...the EAS is a simple system once understood, get hold of the RAVE manuals and read them...that way you will relaise just how simple the system is.

The Diagnostic software for the Suspenson is dead cheap from Datatek (member on here who knocks them out for around £11 plus postage) so don't wreck your experiance by going for a coil conversion - the P38 was designed to run on air, and well maintained the system will last for ever....

Download RAVE from here land rover service factory manual RAVE download land rover resource, service manual, workshop factory manual, download, rave, vehicles including discovery, series, defender, range rover, freelander, LR3, Handbooks, Catalog, Catalogue, Land Rover Inte and learn the system....

If they have converted to coils, what else have they skipped or skimped on??

Needless to say, some convert to coils purely through frustration and who can blame them, but don't choose one on coils alone - get it on air, work the system and if you feel you really want coils, convert yourself....
 
Ok, manual now down-loading. I take it parts for the system are affordable then.
Very...

4 New Dunlop bags Around £60-70 each
Compressor £125-160 refurbed or new (cheaper S/H on the bay of E)
Valve Block Seals Kit £35
6mm Airline Couple of quid a metre
Rebuilt Valve Block £100-180 ish (Again look on the Bay new is Around £375)
Height Sensors Around £55-60 each
Other than the Driver Pack or the ECU (Again can be picked up cheap on the bay) thats pretty much the whole system.....

Diagnostic Software from Datatek - £11 plus postage (he'll throw in RAVE and a copy of his Air Bag replacement guide too)

EDIT: Check out Island 4x4 for new prices http://www.island-4x4.co.uk/suspension-suspension-parts-c-5_6_8.html no affliation just a satisfied customer....obviously the bay of E will be cheaper on second hand parts, and also try our Forum Sponors Emmots of Colne as they sell parts from broken P38's at damn good prices and all parts are teested first - again no affliation.
 
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Cheap in the grand scheme of things, but not so cheap in budget motoring. How well does the system stand up to abuse? I quite fancy getting the vehicle very wet and muddy. Is the P38 ok with this or are the electrics a bit too advanced for this type of abuse?
 
Cheap in the grand scheme of things, but not so cheap in budget motoring. How well does the system stand up to abuse? I quite fancy getting the vehicle very wet and muddy. Is the P38 ok with this or are the electrics a bit too advanced for this type of abuse?
Obviously the P38 was designed to get wet....but not submerged....

The BeCM (The brains), the EAS, ABS, Transfer Box and Gearbox ECU's are all under the front seats, so any wetness that gets in there is bad news....so the offical wade depth was 500mm, but they can be waded deeper aslong as a good bow wave is induced and water doesn't enter the passanger cabin.

Serious off roaders move these items up high and mount them on the headlining using longer cabling!!!

The sensors should be fine getting wet, but like any 4x4 do off road prep before hand, i.e. ensure security of all multiplugs that could get wet and coat in vaseline or similar to try and prevent ingress, but they are very robust in themselves.

I have waded all my P38's upto about 650mm, just over the sill height at extended ride height, and aslong as you keep momentum and your door seals are good, there is no issue....

Cheap in the scheme of things yes, budget motoring not really - but you don't buy a Range Rover and expect budget motoring, just because they can be had for pennies, they still have £45k car running costs....and a thirst to match.
 
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