'87 RRC EFi auto cuts out around right handers, uphills and at 4000rpm??!!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
zedrex

zedrex

New Member
Posts
20
Location
Northland, New Zealand
OK, SO I bought this Rangie 3 weeks ago and it was running sweet as.
Over the last week it has developed the following issues:
Initially the engine began cutting out at high rev's (around 4000rpm), if backed off on throttle then it catch and keep going but couldn't get past 4000 rpm.

A few days later it started cutting out realy badly going up hills and I had to creep up them by keeping the revs below 2000rpm.

I have also noticed that if I'm on the throttle going around right handers the motor will cut out, as soon as I get off throttle engine catches again!!!????

If in Neutral, engine will rev up to red line no worries so it would seem to be when engine is under load.

ALso I have noticed that having 1/4 tank gas or less seems to exacerbate the problem.

This is what I have done:
Checked ALL ignition related connections in engine bay, cleaned and sprayed with WD40
CHecked HT leads inc coil, rotor arm and dizzy terminals
Changed fuel filter and checked fuel pump (mounted on side rail of chasis)

When I checked HT leads, issue went away for a day, then came back.
When I changed fuel filter issue went away and then came back.

Living in NZ, I don't have ready access to s/h spares that I can swap out to check so would really appreciate some help on this one as it's doing me f$%#ing head in! :mad:

Cheers

PS: I've had a search through the forum and can't really see any definitive answers but then my patience might be wearing a little thin, just quietly......
 
i would change the plug leads, on my omega v6(temporary car) it would be fine when revved but splutter when under load, plug leads were breaking under load.

check earth terminals and battery connections!
 
gavbriggs said:
i would change the plug leads, on my omega v6(temporary car) it would be fine when revved but splutter when under load, plug leads were breaking under load.

check earth terminals and battery connections!
Click to expand...

Yeah I had it in mind to change the HT leads, cos these ones look cheap and nasty. Have checked/cleaned earth connections and battery terminals. Cheers!
 
Sounds like you looking for a needle in a haystack.

Check the connections on the fuel injection side, I had a mystery misfire and it turned out to be a loose wire on the air flow meter. Try disconnecting the air flow meter and see how you go, but don't run it like that for too long, the fuel consumption will kill ya.
 
classic kev said:
Sounds like you looking for a needle in a haystack.

Check the connections on the fuel injection side, I had a mystery misfire and it turned out to be a loose wire on the air flow meter. Try disconnecting the air flow meter and see how you go, but don't run it like that for too long, the fuel consumption will kill ya.
Click to expand...

OK, sounds like a plan, anything else I can disconnect to check without buggering the motor?

CHeers for the help so far chaps!
 
Sounds similar symtomes to what i had, I would check out the TPS, (Throttle position Sensor), this cured our problem,
 
WHile I think about it, SOMEONE has been IN the AFM, as the lid is held on with silicone, have checked it for nominal operation, inso much as when I rev the engine, the needle inside the AFM moves around..............:confused:
 
classic kev said:
Sounds like you looking for a needle in a haystack.

Check the connections on the fuel injection side, I had a mystery misfire and it turned out to be a loose wire on the air flow meter. Try disconnecting the air flow meter and see how you go, but don't run it like that for too long, the fuel consumption will kill ya.
Click to expand...

Tried that, no change! Cheers tho, got any more idea's?? :D
 
sat351 said:
Sounds similar symtomes to what i had, I would check out the TPS, (Throttle position Sensor), this cured our problem,
Click to expand...

Sounds reasonable, is there a test I can do on TPS to check operation?
Have searched forum and rave to no avail, not in a position to swap out as don't have access to a known good one!

Cheers for the help so far guys, keep it comin! :)
 
zedrex said:
Sounds reasonable, is there a test I can do on TPS to check operation?
Have searched forum and rave to no avail, not in a position to swap out as don't have access to a known good one!

Cheers for the help so far guys, keep it comin! :)
Click to expand...

Throttle pot test is easy, I haven't got the readings in front of me just now but all you need is a DVM (digital volt meter, if you didn't know that one). You need to check it is scaling smoothly and that the set position (throttle closed) has a particular value. Go onto the RPI Engineering website, I seem to think the values are on there, they also have some other useful info for things you can check.
 
zedrex said:
OK, SO I bought this Rangie 3 weeks ago and it was running sweet as.
Over the last week it has developed the following issues:
Initially the engine began cutting out at high rev's (around 4000rpm), if backed off on throttle then it catch and keep going but couldn't get past 4000 rpm.

A few days later it started cutting out realy badly going up hills and I had to creep up them by keeping the revs below 2000rpm.

I have also noticed that if I'm on the throttle going around right handers the motor will cut out, as soon as I get off throttle engine catches again!!!????

If in Neutral, engine will rev up to red line no worries so it would seem to be when engine is under load.

ALso I have noticed that having 1/4 tank gas or less seems to exacerbate the problem.

This is what I have done:
Checked ALL ignition related connections in engine bay, cleaned and sprayed with WD40
CHecked HT leads inc coil, rotor arm and dizzy terminals
Changed fuel filter and checked fuel pump (mounted on side rail of chasis)

When I checked HT leads, issue went away for a day, then came back.
When I changed fuel filter issue went away and then came back.

Living in NZ, I don't have ready access to s/h spares that I can swap out to check so would really appreciate some help on this one as it's doing me f$%#ing head in! :mad:

Cheers

PS: I've had a search through the forum and can't really see any definitive answers but then my patience might be wearing a little thin, just quietly......
Click to expand...


Look at the internal piping in the tank. If it only does it on right hand bends, and with low fuel a split in the pickup tubing is favorite. I cannot see how HT leads could give that problem.
 
Looks like wammers answered the q for me. If the car doesn't do it with plenty of fuel in the tank then it really only points to a pick-up issue.
Mine's an 86 & over the years I've replaced the main fuel lines (corroded through at the rear as they pass over the chassis, a common issue) the fuel tank (seams rusted through, again common). The pipes at the top of the pump assembly (outside the tank) were fine - although pinhole rust perforations in them allowing air in can be another hard to find fault - which was more than could be said for the electrical contacts!
Also found that there are variations in tank depth & the pick up pipe needed to be adjusted to reach the bottom of the new tank. I DIDN'T know that until the engine died despite the fuel gauge showing just under 1/4 of a tank:doh: Checks at the place I bought it from - they had several in stock, genuine & pattern - showed that no two were the same depth so obviously excellent manufacturer quality control.
Unfortunately on mine it pre-dates the access hole on the boot so its a drop the tank job to access the pump. IIRC there are details of measuring so you can cut a hole to avoid dropping the tank but I can't remember which site they were on.
 
Last edited:
classic kev said:
Throttle pot test is easy, I haven't got the readings in front of me just now but all you need is a DVM (digital volt meter, if you didn't know that one). You need to check it is scaling smoothly and that the set position (throttle closed) has a particular value. Go onto the RPI Engineering website, I seem to think the values are on there, they also have some other useful info for things you can check.
Click to expand...

Cool found that one, have adjusted TPS to get correct readings, AFM is showing incorrect readings but it would appear that the adjuster screw is missing!!! ANy idea what the dimensions of this screw are so I can replace??

Thanks for your help :) I am at least making some progress!!
 
Ratae said:
Looks like wammers answered the q for me. If the car doesn't do it with plenty of fuel in the tank then it really only points to a pick-up issue.
Mine's an 86 & over the years I've replaced the main fuel lines (corroded through at the rear as they pass over the chassis, a common issue) the fuel tank (seams rusted through, again common). The pipes at the top of the pump assembly (outside the tank) were fine - although pinhole rust perforations in them allowing air in can be another hard to find fault - which was more than could be said for the electrical contacts!
Also found that there are variations in tank depth & the pick up pipe needed to be adjusted to reach the bottom of the new tank. I DIDN'T know that until the engine died despite the fuel gauge showing just under 1/4 of a tank:doh: Checks at the place I bought it from - they had several in stock, genuine & pattern - showed that no two were the same depth so obviously excellent manufacturer quality control.
Unfortunately on mine it pre-dates the access hole on the boot so its a drop the tank job to access the pump. IIRC there are details of measuring so you can cut a hole to avoid dropping the tank but I can't remember which site they were on.
Click to expand...

I have to say that I'm inclined to agree with you and wammers thoughts but I also wanna rule out other possibilities as well!

OH and the dimensions for cutting the access hatch to the in-tank fuel pump are at landroversonly.com

My RRC has pump on chassis rail, so I going to have to drop the tank anyway, not a major as there's plenty of room under there to do it.

SO I'm assuming, from what you have said that the pick-up pipes are not welded to the tank but pass through some sort of gromet to allow for adjustment??

I have also noticed that the feed pipes to the injectors are all perished, so will be replacing these as well.

Thanks for your help so far guys, will keep you posted ;)
 
Last edited:
I'm curious that you say the fuel pump is on the chassis rail. I thought the EFi of that period had the fuel pump assembly complete with its pipes etc mounted in through the hole on the top of the tank. There is a round plate screwed to the top of the tank & the fuel pump is attached to the bottom of this with a short metal pipe sticking out of the top together with the electrical connections to run the pump.
I'm using the RR factory manual for MY 1986 to 1989 & that shows the pump mounted inside the tank, which is certainly the case on mine. The feed line runs from the pump outlet on top of the tank via flexible pipes to the filter - a cylinder mounted on the side of the chassis rail - and then along the chassis as a metal pipe clipped to the top of the chassi rail to the engine bay. The return pipe parallels it along the top of the chassis but doesn't go to the filter, just back to the inlet at the side of the tank & is also metal with flexible pipe as required for the joins.
The carb model covered by that manual also shows as having the pump assembly in the top of the tank, but the filter assy in the engine bay.

If you have a look at The Green Oval - Home for a manual it may be of help.
 
Last edited:
Ratae said:
I'm curious that you say the fuel pump is on the chassis rail. I thought the EFi of that period had the fuel pump assembly complete with its pipes etc mounted in through the hole on the top of the tank. ...........If you have a look at The Green Oval - Home for a manual it may be of help.
Click to expand...

Yep, I know, bear in mind that this RRC would have originally been destined for the Australian market, where conditions are somewhat harsher than in dear old blighty, so I'm picking that they decided to put the pump somewhere a bit more accessible, I've got the rave cd and it does indeed show the pump in the tank, have just come across the Rave2 cd download so will see if that shows a different set-up!!

Cheers
 
Werll I dropped the tank (and if you need to know, yes you can do it on yer tod) and it would seem that well known mechanic Bodgitt+Scarper has been involved!! :doh:

It USED to have an in-tank pump, all that remains of that is the top-plate, metal down pipe and filter bracket (with a really really badly bodged extension to the pick-up pipe (wittled fuel line jammed into filter!!!) :eek:

SO have replaced extension to down pipe with new hose and discarded the tea bag like filter, the in-line one should take care of any debris.

Have wrestled the tank back into place and just havin a cuppa before I connect it all back up, will see what happens next!!! :rolleyes:
 
WELL, the "repair has worked a treat, just been out and thrashed the bejesus out of it, uphill, around right handers and all is well!! :D:D:D

Thanks to all you guys for your help and inspiration!!

Mine's a V8 mate...............and it's great!!:D:D:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

V
Range a rover P38 Gearbox power solenoid fault
2 3
Replies
44
Views
2K
Datatek
Datatek
G
freelander 1 cuts out on idle
Replies
11
Views
904
GerryN
G
ryeguy32118
Classic 1995 Range Rover County Classic 3.9 V8 - Idles but stalls out when in Drive or Reverse
Replies
4
Views
1K
classic kev
classic kev
JokerUK
Recommended mechanic garage around Glastonbury
Replies
1
Views
517
JokerUK
JokerUK
J
Non Starter low rail pressure
2
Replies
22
Views
2K
Jaglad23
J
Back
Top