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breakers

New Member
Posts
73
Location
worcester and shropshire
I have just brought a series 2a truck cab 1967 (you might have seen it on ebay last week) I've been having a good look over it today and even though it's been stood two years the engine ran, no break or clutch though so new slave cylinders I think. I have decided to do a proper job and strip the top off to replace the rear chassis and am now pondering how far to go. Below is what I planned to do so any comments on what I've missed would be valued and will help my budget planning!:rolleyes:

New half chassis, outriggers and a few other bits around the footwells and inside wings.
New shockers all round (leaf springs look good so was going to keep them, unless rust rights them off?)
It's a petrol engine so new distributor cap, plugs, leads, filters etc
the fuel tank looks very rusted so a though a new one might be worth doing whilst the backs off?
Would you good people recommend replacing oil in diffs boxes etc?

I'm a novice with old landrovers but have a barn to use and a friend whose a good welder so hope it should all be prity straight forward!!!!!!
Any advice would be most welcome of bits I've missed and or the things I am thinking of doing.
 
New shocks - order new rubbers, bolts, washers and split pins (as appropriate - they aren't expensive).
And a condensor, points and rotor arm (or go electronic - several threads on here about this). Get a gasket or overhaul kit for the carb and give it a strip and clean while you are there.
You can reline fuel tanks but it's probably just as cheap to replace - give the new one a good couple of coats of paint before fitting. Get the right tank - some have integral outlet pipes, some need senders with outlets included.
Change the gearbox/diff oils. Sieve and then run a magnet through the old oil - it'll give you some idea how many bits have been knocked off the internals.
 
How far to go?.......As far as your budget/time allows, there is no end :frusty:
Definately change all the oil and flush......check sediment for filings/hunks of metal so you know how paranoid to get about strange whining/knocking/screaming noises
 
I bought a 1969 Series 2A earlier this year - I did think about just patching up what was required to keep it going (it failed it's MOT on a bit of tin-worm in the footwells and a couple of other simple jobs).
Fast forward 6 months and it's in about a thousand pieces! As I stripped bits off I thought "that needs a good clean" or "that could do with a service" until I was left with a garage full of bits and a chassis resting on four axle stands.
I'm in no rush to put it back together - I'm taking my time, cleaning parts up, degreasing, repainting, etc. Seals and bearings get replaced but I'm trying to not just throw money at it (I'm not made of money and it kind of defeats the object of the exercise).

Ian.
 
You could get a replacement 1.2 chassis but as you are stripping it down to the chassis. Personally i went i bought a half decent chassis off ebay for £500. But 2 years on i've had to replace the rear half coz of un-seen rust eating from inside-out and it won't be long now until other small parts need welding back on :(.
Wish i spent that extra £500 and got a galv chassis. Only problems then is boring out the holes etc and a quick bodge with a hammer to get things to fit snug.

If your budget will allow get a galv. You will kick yourself later if you don't. Unless your welder really loves old landies too. ;)
 
Are you not tempted by a new galv chassis?

I can do you a great deal on a brand new set of HT leads and a dizzy... bought them to replace on mine but then ended up doing a 200tdi conversion before fitting.

Can also do you a good deal on a very low mileage Turner Head for the engine too...

And while i'm at it, got a load of 20W50 oil going spare, fan belt, etc.

let me know :)

(wonder if this counts as Spam? :confused::eek:
 
Oh yeah, in this weather replace the antifreeze or drain the system until you want to run the engine again.
 
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