I replaced my rear wheel bearing today and I would not even vaguely consider trying to do the job with the hub still on the car.
Get the driveshaft nut slackened. You will need a decent punch to knock up the bit of the nut hammered down into the groove on the end of the driveshaft. Undoing the nut took my HGV-spec 1" drive socket set, 32mm socket and a long scaffolding pole over the end of the ratchet handle.
To remove the hub, you need to take off the handbrake cable, unplug the ABS sensor and disconnect the brake line to the rear wheel cylinder.
Undo the various suspension arm bushes and remove the hub. There was no way in hell the two bolts holding the hub to the strut were coming out so I dropped the whole strut off the car. (oh,I have a commercial so since there is no access trap in the side plastic trim in the load bay, I had to take the whole panel off. Oh, but that means taking the floor up first. Oh, but you cant take the floor up unless you either take out the bulkhead mesh or take the roof off. FARCE.)
There is nothing but friction holding the drive flange into the bearing, so get something that fits on the back of the drive flange - I used a big socket, and wallop the crap out of it with a very big hammer. The drive flange will pop out towards the front of the hub, normally taking a bit of the old bearing with it (inner race).
Pop out the old circlip thing, and using another suitably sized socket, bash the **** out of it to push the outer race out towards the front of the hub. Mine was not keen on moving so I set my MIG welder power to "nuclear" and laid down a fat bead around 2/3 of the inside face of the outer race. This cools and contracts the race, allowing it to be hit out with slightly less force.
Having a hydraulic press would be nice here, but I dont have one.
You need a socket that presses ONLY against the outer race to press the new bearing in, otherwise you will damage the new bearing. Like I said, a press would be nice, but I had to make do with a big hammer, taking care to knock it in squarely. Dont forget the new circlip. I had to use a grinder to take the remains of the old inner race off the drive flange, carefully buffing it away without going too far and cutting into the seating face of the drive flange. To pull the drive flange into the new bearing, I used a big bit of threaded rod, a socket that presses ONLY on the inner race and some washers n stuff. Tightening the nuts up on the threaded rod pulled the flange down into the bearing.
The rest is a reversal of the removal process. Unless your car is like mine, where various bits shear off, requiring several hours extra work with a hammer, drill, welder and now a wait for a new wheel cylinder to be delivered.
