TD4 Turbo Actuator Operation, Please Help!

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dan1985

New Member
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42
Ok so i bought my y reg TD4 in June probably paid to much for it. First thing i did was give it a service, used castrol magnatec 5/30 and brit part filters. At the same time changed the pcv to the bmw cyclone type and cleaned out egr and air box. Stupidly i overfilled with oil, tried to put the full 6.5 litres in without checking dipstick. This produced heaps of blue smoke. My problem now is after draining oil to minimum it still produces blue/grey smoke between 2000 and 3000 rpm. After hours of investigation i realized that a previous owner or mechanic had put the turbo vent filter on the IRD breather pipe and left the turbo vent open without a filter. I removed the vacuum pipe which was clogged but not fully blocked i tried to test the solenoid to see if it still worked (didn't do this the sensible way by looking at the turbo actuator rod for movement). Bought myself a new solenoid £51+VAT and fitted this morning still the same problem. Looked at the rod to see if it moves and it does but only when you blip the throttle and returns immediately to its original position, If you build up the revs it doesn't move at all. Can someone tell me if this is normal (cant believe it is) and if they know what might be causing it. I think the problem is boost pressure related as it only reads between 0.0 and 0.4 bar through the rev range and doesnt read any until after 3000 rpm. I have already replaced the MAP sensor in the intake manifold.
 
Right so having took the truck out for a run the boost pressure know seem to be working as i would expect. I spoke with a land rover specialist who advised it was either the turbo seals or the injectors that where causing the blue smoke. He said if i could feel any play in the vanes on the low pressure side of the turbo, then it was the turbo. Tried this, (is quite easily accessed from under the car by the boost solenoid) and no movement at all. So now i defiantly think it is an injector. To expensive to by new ones so going to try and remove and clean myself, if that fails get them reconditioned, fingers crossed.
 
1st thing to check is yer air intake pipes. They can split and become porous after a while.
What's the year and mileage on yer wagon?
 
Had all the pipes off and tested for leaks, found none. Its 2001 and done 126,000 miles. been told injectors can go at around this mileage. dont know if the problem started after i serviced it or if it was aways a problem. Only noticed when i reved the car after servicing it. I am also thinking fuel pumps as they are noisy (they might have always been this noisy butam clutching at straws to fix). Although the smoke is blue it has a smell of diesel. It is really under powered at low revs. cant pull away in 1st or reverse first time you start it unless you rev it.
 
Check that the fuel rail pressure sensor plug and socket have clean contacts, then try unplugging the maf and give it a run as with the maf unplugged it will run on default values.
 
Cleaned this up but no difference defiantly suspect injectors. heard they are a bugger to remove without destroying. also misfireing so i dont think its burning oil. idle is really noisy sounds like cam noise but think its all injector related (was told these are quite quiet engine when they are running properly. think there is a place the reconditions them in my nearest town, hopefully get some change from £300.
 
Injectors can come out fairly easily with a bit of care but before you chuck a load of money at a guess put a can of BG244 in the tank, it does clean them. If that doesn't help at least do a leak back test first.
 
I have run a fair amount of redex through the injectors which hasn't done anything. Is the leak back test with the syringes (looks easy enough) will have ago at this. Am now hoping it is the injectors just so i can get it fixed. I think all four are playing up or at least more than one as there is not much diffrence between each one when you pull the sensor plugs. This certainly doesn't cure the smoke. Could it be a sticking inlet valves or would this just get destroyed when the piston goes up.
 
Bg244 is a fuel system cleaner that you only use as a one off about every 10.000 miles. Redex is just an every day addative that as you say does little. Dont know about syringes on a leak back test?
 
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