Rough Running - Carb trouble?

Just tried to start my series 3 after not using it for about a week or so, only to find that it wouldn't turn over. Ok so I thought because of all the cold weather the battery might be at fault, so I jump started it with my van. It started after a bit of persuasion, but ran really rough and kept dying. After a closer look in the engine bay and from the obvious smell of petrol I noticed that fuel is leaking from the carburetter from what looks like where the throttle spindle enters the carb or possibly from where the adapter gasket is? Any ideas as to why this is happening and how I go about sorting this? I have the Zenith 361V carb. Any help would be appreciated

Cheers

Paul

probably age, a new carb would sort it.
unless is proper ****ing out, wouldnt have thought i'd be a major issue.
i reckon you flooded it trying to start it.
clean the plugs.

Is it worth getting a rebuild kit for the exisiting carb and replacing all of the gaskets or would a new one be the better idea? Which carburettor is best to go for?

Cheers
Paul

paddie said:

Is it worth getting a rebuild kit for the exisiting carb and replacing all of the gaskets or would a new one be the better idea? Which carburettor is best to go for?

Cheers
Paul

Click to expand...

rebuild, keep it original - nice Sunday afternoon project

some info here

Land Rover Carburettors - by Glencoyne 4x4 (Thetford)

would try the rebuild kit if its leaking bad enough.

I have a carb for sale if you want it?

It came on my military recon engine, it was on there for abuot a week running just fine untill I changed it for the new carb I had fitted to my old engine.

It has been my spare up till now, but its taking up valuable space in the garage.

Its a Zenith 36IV and I reccon its worth £40

Thanks for all the advice.

I've just been out and had another look at it, started first time no problem but running really rough and then cutting out. The adaptor between the carb and the manifold iced up quickly, would air leaking through the gasket cause this????

Yannis thanks for the offer, would be handy to have a spare one while I rebuild mine. Would you post it as well for £40?

One last thing, is there anything I should know about rebuilding the carb? I've never done one before, so any advice would be great

Cheers

Paul

dont do it in the kitchen unless you like the smell of petrol.......

edit-
check all mating faces for warping.

Do it somewhere warm - cold fingers and fiddly bits don't mix. Clean the outside with carb cleaner and an old paint/tooth brush before you start and keep your working area clean.
Do the job in a large cardboard tray or cut down cardboard box - keeps it clean and stops you losing bits. Have at least a gasket set before you start, it's unlikely you'll be able to reuse the gaskets and o-rings.
Print out a large copy of the exploded diagram - plenty available on the net - and take photos of the carb in situ with its linkages in case you forget how it goes back.
Clean the parts over kitchen towel with carb cleaner - controls where the dirt goes.
Check the mating surfaces and the base flange are flat - use a piece of plate glass to check. They can be reground with emery paper on the glass plate if the carb body has warped.
If petrol is leaking out it might be caused by a sticking needle, holed float or wrong float height - diagnostic procedures will be in the book.
Be careful removing and replacing the body screws - if you strip a thread you'll have to drill out and retap or buy a new carb.
Oh yes, wear surgical gloves. Modern fuel stinks and can have some seriously nasty stuff in it.

£41.50 inc postage?

Also, when you buy the rebuild kit, don't get the cheapest one you can find or things wont fit.... as a friend found out.

Anyone know where you can get decent, preferably original, overhaul kits for Zenith carbs? Mine's a bit weepy.

Thanks for all the advice, I've ordered a rebuild kit from Paddocks, seemed to be the only one I could get (Craddocks, L R Series etc.. all seemed to have the identical kit, Paddocks was the cheapest).

Having said that L R Series have an original genuine kit but that was £125!!!

I'll keep you up to date with how I get on with it

Paul

PS. Yannis thanks for the offer but I've decided just to get mine rebuilt and get it back on the road.

paddie said:

Thanks for all the advice, I've ordered a rebuild kit from Paddocks, seemed to be the only one I could get (Craddocks, L R Series etc.. all seemed to have the identical kit, Paddocks was the cheapest).

Having said that L R Series have an original genuine kit but that was £125!!!

I'll keep you up to date with how I get on with it

Paul

PS. Yannis thanks for the offer but I've decided just to get mine rebuilt and get it back on the road.

Click to expand...

promisses forgotten ...

Hi,

My petrol SIII was running rough recently after fitting a new Weber 34ICH carb. Starting much better, but cutting out and then starting ok, didn't like being left for a few days without starting.

The fuel pump was the issue, a spring in one valve worked its way loose and was holding the valve partially closed. Fixed it but decided to chuck a new pump in anyway, starts like a dream now, turn the key and she roars into life. Decent pumps are about £20, worth a punt I reckon if your carb rebuild isn't a full success. Both things worth doing of course.

Cheers