Red Light Flashing on Dash

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Nitro159

New Member
Posts
61
Location
Surrey
Heya'll.

I have a slight worry, My S3 SWB Diesel 2.25 is running lovely (Until I go uphill with a quarter of a tank, then she dies and you have drive up backwards)

But while greenlaning this weekend I noticed a RED flashing light, every now and then to the right of the clocks/fuel gauge arrangement and to the left of the "Fan" and Wiper switches. Initially it looks blue/white but the Light inside is red so it does catch my attention and I've only seen it flash a few times under heavy braking on a motorway (Don't ask I don't know why I was on a motorway either, or heavily braking) and during greenlaning it just flashed and flashed. Any ideas?

Cheers
 
The one at the bottom of the fuel/temp gauge round thingy is the ignition light and means you have a faulty alternator (or loose belt).
If it's to the right of the round thingy it's probably either the brake warning light or the low fuel light - perhaps a diesel owner will know which.
 
Water on yer fan belt might cause that, you'd generally hear it squeel at the same time though.
The brake differential pressure switch also might be the cause, I've no idea where the light is on the dash, but if the pressure varies on both circuits by more than a certain amount it brings the light on.
Check all your pipework and wheels for signs of leaks, also check the master cylinder for manky scummy old brake fluid.
 
mmm comes on when low on fuel? flashes when heavy braking /cornering.

yup its the low fuel light lets yer know (if set properly ) you have 7litres left, only on diesels as its an arse on to bleed if you run out
 
mmm comes on when low on fuel? flashes when heavy braking /cornering.

yup its the low fuel light lets yer know (if set properly ) you have 7litres left, only on diesels as its an arse on to bleed if you run out

Right Steve, definately low fuel warning light. Mine comes on when half full and going down hill :rolleyes:
I've never run out what's the proceedure for bleeding? On all diesels I've worked on - mainly old agri stuff - the bleed screw had to be undone on the injector pump and then manually pumped from the fuel pump till fuel pi**ed out then tightened up. Never done it on a Series 3 landy. Advice would be appreciated.
 
Pike, I had to bleed mine (yes I ignored the light and hence the topic!) but that's what we did, however We were on a slope so it took 20 litres of fuel to get the tank back up to the fuel pipe so it could suck fuel in. Is the pipe too short? I know we were on a slope so the fuel sloshed to the back of the tank but would it be worth extending the pipe to the bottom?
 
2 issues...

one is how accurate the low level light is on the level, you can adust them by bending the float arm. flashing when going up/down/braking is normal

i think the intake pipe in the tank , it will be off the bottom to avoid sucking the crap in although it does have a fine mesh to help avoid this, as i remember i think the pipe is made with a seam running up it so if it splits higher up then you would need a fuller tank to avoid sucking in air.
might be worth checking your pipe if it needed 20l in

to bleed it start at the top of filter undo the banjo and use the fuel pump to pump the air out if it does not pump efficiently spin the starter slightly to get a better position on cam. if your just changing filter this would be enough , if the air is any further then need to bleed the distributer pump

first open the bleed screw on the pump body and as as you say pump the fuel pump till air gone , then do the bleed screw on the control box cover same.

im an expert at bleeding as i had a air leak on the fuel spill rail when i first got it , had yo bleed about 9 times in 2mile to get home!
 
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