P38 EAS stuff help really!

I'm about to change the air dryer & refurb the air pump on my 4.6 HSE. Am I right in thinking once I let
the air go on the dryer & the pump the springs wont deflate? They are controlled by the block valves I
guess??

I don't want it to drop & require a reset?

Seems right but I could do with it confirming?

The R$AVE tells you to let all the air out of the system, well that's no use to me!

Nige


--

Subaru WRX
Range Rover 4.6 HSE (The Tank!)

We might be going on a summer holiday, the Greece Ball rally!!!!

Nige nearly made me spill my Shiraz on 03/06/2006 12:54 by writing:
> I'm about to change the air dryer & refurb the air pump on my 4.6 HSE. Am I right in thinking once I let
> the air go on the dryer & the pump the springs wont deflate? They are controlled by the block valves I
> guess??

You should be OK as long as the ignition is off, and it doesn't decide
to self-level. To be sure, pull the timer relay under the (UK)
passenger seat.

> I don't want it to drop & require a reset?

Even if it does, it will only need a reset if it gets right to the
bottom - the only time I've done that was a Rovacom controlled
deflation, following by chucking half a ton of crap in the back and
forgetting to reinflate before driving off.

Nige wrote:
> I'm about to change the air dryer & refurb the air pump on my 4.6 HSE. Am I right in thinking once I let
> the air go on the dryer & the pump the springs wont deflate? They are controlled by the block valves I
> guess??
>
> I don't want it to drop & require a reset?
>
> Seems right but I could do with it confirming?
>
> The R$AVE tells you to let all the air out of the system, well that's no use to me!
>
> Nige


Hi Nige,

Just a tiny bit of air escaped when I disconnected my compressor for the
rebuild. Looking at the diagram it looks like the outlet of the
compressor goes direct to the dryer so I would guess that can be removed
ok as well??

Gaz

--

1998 V8 HSE P38
1989 V8 RR Classic

If It Ain’t Broken... Fix It ‘Til It Is

Andy Cunningham wrote:
> Nige nearly made me spill my Shiraz on 03/06/2006 12:54 by writing:
>> I'm about to change the air dryer & refurb the air pump on my 4.6 HSE. Am I right in
>> thinking once I let the air go on the dryer & the pump the springs wont deflate? They
>> are controlled by the block valves I guess??
>
> You should be OK as long as the ignition is off, and it doesn't decide
> to self-level. To be sure, pull the timer relay under the (UK)
> passenger seat.
>
>> I don't want it to drop & require a reset?
>
> Even if it does, it will only need a reset if it gets right to the
> bottom - the only time I've done that was a Rovacom controlled
> deflation, following by chucking half a ton of crap in the back and
> forgetting to reinflate before driving off.


Done it with no problems, cheers chaps!!!
--

Subaru WRX
Range Rover 4.6 HSE (The Tank!)

We might be going on a summer holiday, the Greece Ball rally!!!!

"Nige" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> I'm about to change the air dryer & refurb the air pump on my 4.6 HSE. Am
> I right in thinking once I let the air go on the dryer & the pump the
> springs wont deflate? They are controlled by the block valves I guess??
>
> I don't want it to drop & require a reset?
>
> Seems right but I could do with it confirming?
>
> The R$AVE tells you to let all the air out of the system, well that's no
> use to me!
>
> Nige
>
>
> --
>
> Subaru WRX
> Range Rover 4.6 HSE (The Tank!)
>
> We might be going on a summer holiday, the Greece Ball rally!!!!
>

Nige:

Run the engine so the RR will level. Block under the frame to keep this ride
height while doing the install. After install pressurize the system and go
from there. Good Luck.

Jack

Gazza said:

Nige wrote:
> I'm about to change the air dryer & refurb the air pump on my 4.6 HSE. Am I right in thinking once I let
> the air go on the dryer & the pump the springs wont deflate? They are controlled by the block valves I
> guess??
>
> I don't want it to drop & require a reset?
>
> Seems right but I could do with it confirming?
>
> The R$AVE tells you to let all the air out of the system, well that's no use to me!
>
> Nige


Hi Nige,

Just a tiny bit of air escaped when I disconnected my compressor for the
rebuild. Looking at the diagram it looks like the outlet of the
compressor goes direct to the dryer so I would guess that can be removed
ok as well??

Gaz

--

1998 V8 HSE P38
1989 V8 RR Classic

If It Ain’t Broken... Fix It ‘Til It Is

Click to expand...

Hello Im Mark. I have a 1999 p38a 2.5d. I have had all of the usual issues with an aging R.R. So to make this brief as i can for you. I purchased a rebuild kit off ebay for about 20 quid. the air compressor on my p38 was boiling and not working properly. my car was quite low but not on the bump stops. i was also hesitant to remove pump due to also reading that i should decompress the system before working on the pump. I purchased a eas lead and software a while back off of ebay and that was about 20 quid also. that was an awsome cheap purchase for fixing eas issue, and reprogramming ride height etc. it also shows fault information and can turn on / off the system, and decompress correctly if needed. Anyway besides that bit of kit I had laptop issues and couldnt get my laptop plugged in so i just decided that if the car was low enough maybe the air wouldnt blast out and kill me lol. (even tho there is a tank which holds air still possibly full ?) so i removed the air pump without any catastrophe. I removed air compressor and brought it in to the kitchen table. Towel down on glass table, 8mm various sockets and spanners and a couple allan keys. took everything apart after watching a you tube video from the RSW channel.(RSW is the dude who does the software for the EAS) awsome person for his contributions to us who work on our vehicles.
I quickly found out that the piston arm was disconnected from the electric motor spindel causing the motor to spin and stay running and get very hot. The rebuild kit i bought also came with an electric diode thing which is a shut off switch against overheating. I rebuilt the compressor. New O rings, piston ring, and piston sleeve installed. Put everything back together and it is like brand new. It runs so much smoother and quieter. The inside of the compressor was absolutely filthy with all kinds of black deposits and grime from the electric motor brushes etc.

So i am now having issues with a fuse that keeps blowing. A 40amp fuse under the bonnet which the diagram shows as in relation to my EAS. This fuse however, when blown, will not allow the car engine to start. Now my compressor isnt running but my airbags are keeping at a decent ride height. I am going outside now to again remove the air compressor and again disassemble the back where the electronics are and begin to remove the electronic board which houses the shut off diode thing. it is installed with 3 mushroomed metal pins which i will have to grind off. I have purchased soldering equipment and flux and will attempt to solder. I am not a good solderer. This is the only thing i can think of that is now causing a chain reaction for the fuse to keep blowing. I have bought a pack of various fuses, a relay tester for 20 quid off amazon. So all in all i have probably spent about 80 pound getting things to fix my air compressor. ebay has some aircompressors for close to a 100 quid refurbed , or new ones from 130 to 350 pounds. Again a refurb is a leap of faith as is a used one so i decided to rebuild it myself.

If you like i can give you an update. I just wanted to write to you and tell you about the aircompressor which we both have to deal with. Hope any of this helps you at all.
Good Luck