Clutch pedal reservoir

Hi all
Noticed my clutch getting bad today and practically no pedal at all.
Looking under bonnet I can see dampness where fluid goes in but no leak that I can see.
Will I need to replace the whole unit or can it be resealed?
How big a job is it?
Thanks in advance

It's a 2004 td5

I would think it's more to do with the secondary (slave) cylinder than the main (master) cylinder.

Have you checked the fluid level in the reservoir?

Has the fluid changed colour? Sometimes, as the seals deteriorate the fluid starts looking very dark.

It's possible to put new seals on, but complete master and slave units are not that expensive so I (and a lot of other people, apparently) just change the whole thing. The fiddliest thing about it, I find, is getting the nuts off that hold the master onto the pedal box, as access is limited and you can only move them a tiny faction of a turn at a time. Somebody on here recommended removing the entire pedal box, but I've not tried that.

Bleeding the system once you've reassembled can be difficult, probably because the pipe goes up higher than the master cylinder as it crosses the bulkhead. I've got a pressure bleeder so it's easy, but some people try forcing fluid into the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder instead, and miraculous successes have been claimed.

tottot said:

Have you checked the fluid level in the reservoir?

Click to expand...

Fluid level is ok at master cylinder Totton, just that dampness

Brown said:

Has the fluid changed colour? Sometimes, as the seals deteriorate the fluid starts looking very dark.

It's possible to put new seals on, but complete master and slave units are not that expensive so I (and a lot of other people, apparently) just change the whole thing. The fiddliest thing about it, I find, is getting the nuts off that hold the master onto the pedal box, as access is limited and you can only move them a tiny faction of a turn at a time. Somebody on here recommended removing the entire pedal box, but I've not tried that.

Bleeding the system once you've reassembled can be difficult, probably because the pipe goes up higher than the master cylinder as it crosses the bulkhead. I've got a pressure bleeder so it's easy, but some people try forcing fluid into the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder instead, and miraculous successes have been claimed.

Click to expand...

Brown said:

Has the fluid changed colour? Sometimes, as the seals deteriorate the fluid starts looking very dark.

It's possible to put new seals on, but complete master and slave units are not that expensive so I (and a lot of other people, apparently) just change the whole thing. The fiddliest thing about it, I find, is getting the nuts off that hold the master onto the pedal box, as access is limited and you can only move them a tiny faction of a turn at a time. Somebody on here recommended removing the entire pedal box, but I've not tried that.

Bleeding the system once you've reassembled can be difficult, probably because the pipe goes up higher than the master cylinder as it crosses the bulkhead. I've got a pressure bleeder so it's easy, but some people try forcing fluid into the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder instead, and miraculous successes have been claimed.

Click to expand...

The fluid does look dark. I think it might be best to change master and slave cylinders at this stage. Thanks to everyone for the input. Much appreciated.

Fluid leakage at the master may well be coming from the pipe connection, air could also get in causing clutch issues you have.

Its an easy job to do both master and slave. Dont mess about with seals the units are cheap just replace them.
I fitted the stainless braided pioneer hose when i did myne last year.
Prime the master / lines open nip up and bleed. makes a bit of a mess so make sure you wash off any spills etc
Used a pressure bleeder, it bled up just fine.

Many thanks everyone. Got new parts today hopefully get them done today

Many thanks everyone.for input.

Hello all. Got new parts fitted and all seems good although I think the biting point is very quick on lifting the pedal off the floor.
Any thoughts?

That I believe is the adjustment on the master.
Also depends on who made master how easy to adjust.
Nuts on each side forget which way, likely make it longer delays engagement.

Do not forget there has to be a tad of free movement at the pedal before it engages the rod. Too much and bite point will be further down. How far does your pedal move before you feel the load coming on ?

tottot said:

Do not forget there has to be a tad of free movement at the pedal before it engages the rod. Too much and bite point will be further down. How far does your pedal move before you feel the load coming on ?

Click to expand...

I'd say about an inch

Not far out but a bit less would result in disengage/engage being higher up.

I have adjustment nut inside pedal box out to end of threaded bar on master cylinder. I just reckon bite is too quick but saying that clutch is not as good as I would have liked so now wondering is pressure plate weakened and maybe need a clutch.

ytre said:

Hello all. Got new parts fitted and all seems good although I think the biting point is very quick on lifting the pedal off the floor.
Any thoughts?

Click to expand...

Give it a little time, new clutch master n slave when changed together needs to bed in a bit, you will find the biting point will rise.