a new wobble thread

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OldIrishWulf

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Great green Hibernia .
:(I have searched through most of the site.My '98 2ldi heap has developed a scary wobble i daren't go faster than 60.I have removed the prop shaft because the support bearings were quite bad.

I lifted the 2 front wheels today and found the roll bar bushes are knackered,so too are the drop link ball joints.There is a bit of play in the o/s drive shaft in and out on the ird end (not sure if this is the problem because I cant feel the wobble through the steering wheel).

I have yet to get the wheels balanced,this could be the problem too(i'll get that done tomorrow).

What I need to know now,is could the knackered roll bar bushes and drop links cause a bad wobble on flat straight roads.

It steers perfectly and corners perfectly.
I dont want to to replace anything that doesnt need replacing but thinking of replacing front drive shafts,I will be buying from ebay I found some for £59-£159.Local lr dealer wants 560euro+vat.

At £59 do I get what I pay for..
 
When you say a wobble, do you mean vibration? The drop links would cause a thumping noise, the track rod joint would cause the steering to wonder, it you noticed it at all. I had a problem with an out of balance drive shaft, which definately caused vibration, but get your wheels balance check done first as this is the cheaper option.
 
I got the wheels balanced today,the lad whodid it reckoned he'd never had to put so many weights on any wheels in his 20 years at it.while my heap was up in the air I checked the drive shafts again.The front driver side drive shaft is very loose on the ird end,much worse than I thought.

Anyway,it drives much better,but I need a new drive shaft.Ill ring breakers on Monday.I might get the ones I saw on ebay for £59.Drop links have been ordered Ill have to buy bushes from local stealer €8.80+ each.

Im also going to buy a quality ball joint splitter.

Oh,Darmain , I mean it was violently rocking and shaking,since I got wheels balanced it feels much better,still got vibrations.
 
If the drive shaft is moving in and out the big hub lock nut could be loose. A tip if replacing shafts with second hand ones - make sure there aren't any high spots on the abs reluctor ring otherwise you'll tear the sensor apart. The shafts expand with rust and push the ring outwards. I did one today, had to file it down a bit.

One more thing if there are that many weights on a wheel, he either can't work the machine properly or the tyre could have a twist in it, which will still balance up but it snakes along the road much the same as a buckled wheel will.
 
thanx HL, no the hub nuts couldnt be more tight.
The 4 men working there all had a go,maybe they had'nt a clue but theyre a good long time at it local business.

I think I'll get the ones off ebay for £59 (i hope the quality isnt as cheap as the price) I would imagine if i replace the duff one for new i had better change the opposite one too?
 
I replaced a shaft last year on one side and the hub on the other side today as the sensor was goosed. SH sensors are a no-no as they do not come out without falling apart. I would only do whichever shaft needs done rather than replacing something thats still serviceable. If you replace everything you will fix the prob but you won't know what actually caused it should it happen again and you'll have good bits in the bin. I'd still jack it up first and see if the tyre's out of line or bulging anywhere. Change the wheels front to back and see if it's any different.
 
I'm fairly positive that the problem is with the o/s drive shaft,the roll bar bushes and knackered drop links dont help much either.
I should have a pair of drive shafts and drop links by Wednesday/Thur.
All i need to find and order now is a pair of roll bar bushes and a drive shaft oil seal.

I was going to order from local stealer they want €8sumthin +for each bush and €20 for the oil seal.

Johnson & Perrot Motor group having a laugh.
 
Probably about right from dealer. I usually use Island 4x4 for bits. They are in Kent so what you save on price you'll pay in carriage and have to wait a few days. Strathearn Engineering near Auchterarder up this area are also quite helpful for the odd obscure bit as well as the normal service items but postage again.
 
just got someone more puter savy,and owns a credit card to order a pair of polybushes for £10 +£7.50 carrige and to check carrige on 2 oil seals for £4.02 each.

the nearest auto factor usually sends me to the stealers,but ill try them all tomorrow for a price on the oil seals.Next thing i need is a ball joint splitter....
 
You won't need it for the Freelander. Once you undo the hub nut and two pinch bolts on the strut whack the shaft inwards (gently) through the hub and the whole thing will drop towards you giving clear access to the ball joint nut. Slacken it (21mm) then a 2lb hammer strike from the side where the pin goes through and it should crack free. Don't hammer the pin or you'll damage it. Like I say I did one at the weekend, took less than an hour and although I have a cantilever splitter I didn't use it - left it in the toolbox.
 
I got my drive shafts today,I cant believe I got so much for so little €'s. I rang a bearing supplier who reckons he should have the oil seal I need to fit with the d/s, if he had the diameters and depth.
So in my haste I posted a new thread looking for dimensions,the sooner that gets lost into page 2 or more the better.I should have my oil seals tomorrow or the day after.
I've had to do them ball joints in the past,changed front shocks,replaced engine and thought a splitter would mean no battering with the lump hammer.
My dad has lent me his expensive hydrolic puller of some kind,I might use it or not.
And that nut on the wish bone, I'm sure is a 22 or 23 because I didnt have one with me the last time I needed to open it half way up the island in my brothers garrage,but you only did one last week so Im sure your right.Im not going near it till I get the new seals.
 
Wobble totally sorted,the o/s inner cv needle bearings had disintegrated inside the cup.The fact that it had emptied its grease was only a contributing factor.I have the other one but have to fix my lock wheel nut,tyre ****ers broke it with their impact drill.

It drives like a new car,on the drivers side only for now.
 
Impact gun on a locking wheel nut!!!!!! Don't they think?

Bet it's both the lugs inside that have come away. Glad the car's fixed though.

:clap2:
 
yeah but they dont know the fuggin thing is made of copper,i didnt get around
to fitting the other driveshaft,the nearside is on the way out.
I can feel the extra drive to the right,i think im onto suthin with the chamois drying
the windows.
I would say Im nearly half way to having a grat set of wheels.
 
OldIrishWolf could you tell me where you got your driveshafts from,if poss the link to the E-bay seller. Thanks
 
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