okay ratty, sounds easy enough, I'm game, and I have a screwdriver. Now, imagine you are talking to a dumb blonde (except I'm brunette) and type slowly...
how do I remove/bypass the ignition lock? is there a simple explanation here in another thread?
do I need specialist tools (usually I like to fix things with duct tape...:doh
beyond scissors, hammer, tweezers...
???
w
Fingers crossed this is an idiots guide that you or the other half can follow to get mobile again. The pictures I've included will be similar to what you have but not exactly the same. I have stuck em on here so you get the gist of what you have to do. Virtually all vehicles are the same principle.
In order to fit a new ignition lock you first have to remove the old one. This being the case, you have to carry out most of the following steps anyway.
The lock is bolted on with special security bolts. When the bolt gets to a certain torque the head of it sheers off. Funnily enough they are called sheer bolts. These sheer bolts are used to stop the lock being removed by theives. Unfortunately it also means that the owner has to sweat to remove them too.
If you look at the following picture you will see a U shape with 2 bolts sticking out of it. The hex parts are the bits that sheer off and the round bits underneath are all that remain afterwards
First you need to remove the ignition cowling. This is the plastic bit behind the steering wheel that goes around the indicator stalks and ignition lock.
I can't remember off the top of my head what type of receiver your alarm/immobiliser has. I think it's a ring that goes over the ignition barrel (the bit where you stick your key in) with the wires going to it. This is the immobiliser receiver that tells your ignition that the correct key fob is being used. If it is a ring type one it should just unclip/pull off and be able to be left dangling.
Now the awkward bit. You can either cut through the bottom clamp that holds the lock in place, using a hacksaw, jigsaw, angle grinder etc...... Or you can use a center punch and a hammer to punch the sheer bolts around to unscrew them........Or you can cut across the bottom clamp and into the head of the sheer bolts and then use a flat head screw driver in the slot you have just made.
below is a piccy of an ignition lock (similar to the one above) with the clamp fitted (the othe half of the U that then forms a circle). This is the bit you will need to cut/chop/butcher (your choice) to get the lock off
Once you have removed the lock assembly you will see a round switch with lots of wires coming from it on the back of the lock assembly (the opposite end to where you stick your key). This is usually held on by one or two small screws. Undo these and the round switch part will come away.
In the middle of the switch (on the face that was pointing towards the key) is a slot. Insert screwdriver into slot. Turn screw driver one click. This is the equivelant of you turning the key to position 1 on the ignition. Turn it another click and that is position 2 on the ignition. Turn it the final bit (it will be trying to spring back as you do it) this is the crank position on the key.
Here's a piccy of the ignition switch showing the hole/slot into which you need to insert said screwdriver in order to start your vehicle.
To start the engine you will either have to press the remote button to disarm the immobiliser or you will have to hold the remote fob/remote key in close proximity to the black receiver ring with the wires coming out of it. Failure to do this will result in your vehicle not starting. If you turn the ignition off for 30 seconds or more, you will have to repeat the same procedure again to restart your vehicle even if you haven't got out or locked your landy (eg sitting in car waiting for kids to come out of school with the engine off).
Hope this helps
