2a LWB brake both axle shoe replacement

Hi, my 109 failed MOT on several things, which I fixed, re took MOT, and brakes failed again!! both n/s 'little or no effort'... this was due to leaked seals which I had replaced but contaminated shoes (which I soaked in petrol and cleaned) were too far gone... enough tread, but to slippy! (the guy at the MOT garage said to cover em in petrol and set fire to the!!1 presumably once they are off the vehicle!!).

So I have got new shoes all round..plus return springs (£72)! (from famous four...really helpful)

I was wondering if there is a good order of fitting them? ie: like when bleeding (n/s rear, o/s rear, n/s front, o/s front)? or doesn't it matter?
also is there anything else I should consider other than just replacing them as they are? (like greasing the adjusters, or doing anything to the drums?)
should I clamp the hoses? or clamp the cylinders when I take the shoes off?

I'll check the parts, as I replace them, to make sure I am putting the right shoes on the right axle, of course, but just wanted to check before everything is apart.

I have checked a lot of posts already, but no-one seems to have asked these questions... loads about M/C and servo, and binding brakes, etc.. but I have a feeling it will be pretty straight forward... touch wood... haha!

Cheers.

Zip ties around the cylinders when you take the shoes off.

Don't be tempted to replace the the adjusters unless they are really, really, REALLY ****ed. The bolt in replacements are ****, worse thing i have ever put on the old girl.

Make sure you put the rear shoes in the right way round: Land Rover FAQ - 109 rear brakes

If you have some new or nearly shoes that are contaminated,after a clean sand off the surface to restor them.[wear a dust mask]

thanks a lot guys, I'm glad I asked! always good to go in prepared!! I love this forum... haha! going and stopping power!!!

herm! cheers.

Tobi said:

Zip ties around the cylinders when you take the shoes off.

Don't be tempted to replace the the adjusters unless they are really, really, REALLY ****ed. The bolt in replacements are ****, worse thing i have ever put on the old girl.

Make sure you put the rear shoes in the right way round: Land Rover FAQ - 109 rear brakes

Click to expand...

What!
I just replaced my front adjusters with a kit yesterday. Did yours break off? The kit with the new adjusters seemed to go on ok for me, (bolt in) I had to grind the old ones off plus the instruction sheet was a little hard to read. It said not to over torque. Haven't tested the brakes yet, waiting for more brake parts errrr.
The kit was RTC3176 (£85)

That'll be a genuine part... so I'm sure it will be fine!! that's why it's £85!!! I was going to go for the cheapo £21 from famous four.. but that tipped the already stretched budget over the edge... Mine are still ok for now... needed new cylinder overhaul kits though.. one thing after another.

FFS! unless your linings are riveted to shoes DO NOT CLEAN WITH PETROL!!!!!!!!!!

the linings are bonded and have a little guess what the petrol does....a mechanic should know better :doh::doh::doh::doh:

It's the £21 ****part ones you need to avoid.
My truck came no functioning brakes. The shoes, cylinders, pipes and adjusters were in a box. PO had had a go at doing all 4 corners.....
Luckily only one back plate was missing the adjusters, cos the replacements were/are ****. I wrecked the 1st pair by fitting them according to the destructions, got the 2nd pair to fit by forcing the cams on with a massive G clamp and then putting the bolt in.

I scanned the instructions that came with the genuine replacement in case anybody is interested in the future. Not the best quality and a little hard to follow. The adjusters I cut off from the front had the spring on the exterior / outside of the back-plate, the replacement instructions called for the spring on the inside of the back-plate. Kinda weird.

RTC3176 Instructions

blue beasty said:

FFS! unless your linings are riveted to shoes DO NOT CLEAN WITH PETROL!!!!!!!!!!

the linings are bonded and have a little guess what the petrol does....a mechanic should know better :doh::doh::doh::doh:

Click to expand...

Oh, well, didn't really soak them, just brushed petrol onto surface, but gave up and got new ones anyway.. and some repair kit's for the cylinders, girling and lucas ones, so they should be ok, the cylinders were pretty cacked up, and probably could have done with a new bleed screw, but the adjusters looked ok. A couple looked like they were welded on!! so, Im glad I didn't try to change THEM!!! the springs are on the inside of the backplate on mine.

Still waiting on the kit for the back ones, shud be easier to change than the front!! takes me back to my first car (Hillman Hunter) done the cylinders and shoes on that before I could drive! took the skin off my knuckles!! (wore thick leather gloves this time)

looking forward to bleeding them! and flying through the MOT.

Have a really good look at yer cylinders! If they're worn or pitted inside then it's probably a good idea to change them and not fit the seal kit!

Get ya! thanks.

I did have, and they were passable, I reckon.

nothing beyond some surface rust which could be removed, which I did. I hope the rear ones are not bad too. the seals did look worn on the ones that were leaking, so I hope it was just that.

Funny thing with the kit, though, it contained some extra rubber bits that didn't get used with the front cylinders, as they were not inside the ones i replaced! sort of shallow rubber dishes with no hole in.

The back cylinders were obviously totally different (only one per side) and used the bits that were similar (but bigger) to the rubber dish shaped things that weren't used on the front.

Also the springs for the adjusters were on the outside. The cylinders were really light (some sort of alloy?) and in good condition once I had removed all the dirt, and gakky stuff from under the protective boot. (the boot seemed to have a bigger diameter and a slightly higher number written on it than the ones I replaced them with, (it said made in USA on the seals too). but both 1 1/4".

I did panic at first thinking that I had bought the wrong ones, but they fit well, and even the boot, that looked too small, fits.

I only had time to fit one side before other chores, but will continue in the morning.

Still unsure what the best way to bleed them would be, I have the reverse bleeding thing in mind, but not totally sure how this works? or the parking facing uphill? or just the common method with 'one man kit' as I have to do alone... don't really want to pressure bleed, as I'm not sure the Master Cylinder will be up for it!

I'll let you know. Cheers.
I have a litre of fluid, should be enuf!!