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They are not "defenders". They are just Land Rover Series III That may help with your search, but have to say they are pretty much like the ones in your pic.

Chassis number is in the right place and they were hand stamped. As for the vin and info plate could be original but as you know they would have been removed to get on top of that carpet.

All ready have one or two. :D

I prefer Truck to car any day, :D

It's the same oil for the axles/transfer so if you have some there's the answer.

Plaster a layer of waterproof grease between the parts.

I use 0.8 wire in my Murex welder. It has 5 power settings and a vairy speed wire feed. This feature helps finding the right amount of wire for the thickness I am doing. On stuff above 3mm I usually revert to my old stick welder I have used/owned for 54 years. First thing I bought when I left...

A 8mm diesel fuel connector [ find on Ebay ] will do the job. The tube is hard. I use a garden secateur to cut. Warm pipe with lighter held each side of pipe [ not underneath ] to soften for insertion of connector. 8 to 10mm pipe clips to finish. Or just cut and have a section of rubber fuel...

But have you checked the pressure now? 30 is a good compromise. If heavy loaded [and hairing around left hand roundabouts :D ] 38 but ride comfort would suffer. Is the other rear ok ?

It is up to them but I would not change box oil type. [ most of the time folks do this sort of stuff it does not work out] The transfer box sump guard may well limit air movement in that area leading to overheating, horses for courses ect. Only other thing could be a race car gear box...

He says it has been on the rear since new I think. If it has been on the rear the whole time then there is an issue. Have you checked the pressure in that tyre recently? Wearing on the outer edge can be a sign of running at low pressure.

Welding is not one of those things like riding a bike, [ aircraft welders who have more than a couple of weeks off have to do a practice/refresh before restarting on the job proper.] So doing a good bit of practice on metal same thickness before starting will be good. When seam welding I like...

I do not see how changing the gear oil for some of higher viscosity will help [ it is a bit like when folks think that one shot grease in the swivel housing will stop leaks ] May slow it some to start but when hot all oils/grease thin out. New seals, good flanges, double check the breather...

Life with an old Landy is like a box of chocolate's, you never know what you get.:)

Like I said old stuff, while mechanical items in good order, even of some age will be fine old electrics do deteriorate. The temp gauge in my series 3 is the other way when needle moves off the bottom it is up to running temp.

Give the actual size would help, and is it water/splash proof.

Good, glad you have had satisfaction and hope you enjoy your new to you truck.

I have no idea of the issue but no oil on the stick is not good. Smoke may have been a small oil drip on to something like exhaust and it burning off. Any where else it would result in a mark where you park. The under tray on today's vehicles can mask such issues though.

Sounds like a plan, let us know the result. Good luck.

You do not want rear brakes that will equal or better the fronts or when you hit the pedal hard you will soon find you are swapping ends and heading for an accident. Trailer brakes need to work for safe braking weather trailer empty or not.