Search results

My 3.9 suffered the dreaded liner slippage at around 80k. Still think the 'cost saving' LPG conversion (converted 10k miles previously) was a contributory factor. Did indeed save me money, right up to the point when a new short motor was needed :rolleyes:

Not just Land Rover, anyone contemplating ownership of motor vehicles built over the past decade or so risk facing the same pain in the wallet. Once the warranty expires .. :oops:

Thanks guys .. I'll keep you posted on the subject of 'holes' once the work is done in a week or so. Essentially the removal of the plastic is to allow the body shop to treat some surface corrosion at the bottom of the black painted wheel arch sections (visible when the rear doors are opened)...

Having another senior moment :oops: Need to remove the black plastic sill trims from my '87 RRC. Do I remember correctly that you just knock the old plastic rivet centres through into the sills themselves, then use new rivets to re-fit the sills ? Thanks guys.

Not a transmission brake anymore then?

When you say 'rough' do you mean it's not running on all 8, or just uneven? If the former I would suspect plugs or leads. What's the mileage? Stalling when engaging D or R could denote too slow a idle speed. My 3.5efi idles (running temp.) at just short of 1000 in P or N, dropping to 600 when D...

:rolleyes::D

I was going to suggest psychiatric help, but that could be considered offensive :rolleyes: Nothing like doing your homework & as already suggested speak to your insurance broker.

Never any harm going for a few extra AH's ;) Problem with the RRC is finding a larger battery that will fit the tray as it's a bit restrictive. Glad you are sorted.

Or me in my Classic :rolleyes: 'Oh I know .. 60 years of driving experience.

I've had my '87 3.5efi auto for nearly 16 years. A good 20w/50 mineral oil with high ZDDP content changed every year or 3k miles. These engines, the design of which can be traced back to the 'sixties, were never designed for 'slippery' oil :rolleyes:

This has become a problem with parts for old cars, not just LR products. So called 'genuine' components have long since been unavailable (even to those owners that could afford to pay the premium prices) so aftermarket suppliers make a killing by satisfying demand. Nobody knows where such...

Never had a bad shunt in any of my 5 series LR's owned in the distant past, but just after I had sold my last RRC to my friend he did experience a head-on with a Renault Clio driven by a moron. Such was the impact that the front tow ring of the RR went through the Clio's windshield as the rest...

Update : I've purchased a (hopefully) better quality ign. amp. made by Lucas, which interestingly infers on the label to have been made in the UK & will fit that this week. The existing cheaper amp. which is still working(!) will be carried as a spare. The remote location means only a 10min...

Points? You can't be referring to CB as the car has electronic ignition. 'Small battery' The factory spec. is 70AH & that should be quite adequate, unless you have extra power hungry equipment fitted or a defective alternator.

Referring back to the original post, the first question I would ask is did the car travel any distance prior to the 'tapping' or was it from first start-up after storage? Always assuming it doesn't turn out to be non-mechanical (ie gasket blow/timing etc.) is the sound commensurate with...

Many thanks again for the recent replies guys, much appreciated. Poor close work eyesight & arthritis in my hand leaves me 2 choices (1) ignore the problem & drive on the tacho or ask my local mechanic to check out the cable(s) as a starting point .. I'll go with the latter, but it might be a...

Many thanks for the replies guys, but I don't understand .. if the cable (which was lubed last year to cure a slight needle waver) has failed/snapped why would the speedo continue to give a reading that (if you ignore the 'ticking' & needle bounce) proves accurate when matched to the rev. counter?

Hi guys The speedometer of my '87 RRC has thrown a wobbly @ exactly 63k recorded miles. Worked fine up to a short stop in a journey but when it was resumed I became aware of this loud ticking sound, much like a grandfather clock, increasing with road-speed. Curiously the needle is still...

Back in the 'seventies when I was driving sand/ballast most of the deliveries were local but on occasions when a longer trip was called for cruise control was employed to relieve the calf muscles of my right leg as the loud pedal was heavy when pressed to the floor for long periods. I can hear...