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I have bought a replacement for a leaking heating matrix and cleaned up the box around it. I have put some foam on the inside to try and make it as airtight as possible. My plan was to rivet the lid back onto the box. I have hit a snag: the holes on the cover are pretty small and only a small...

I thought the end of the distributor had an offset tooth, which won't fit into the drive dog.

Whilst my series 3 did not originally have reversing lights, I would like to add them for safety reasons (and my new loom has the connections for this). I need to add a switch to fit on the Lt76 gearbox (which has a hole in what I think it's the right place to mount a switch), but I can't work...

ach. you can't really tell from that photo, but i think i have put the brake backing plate behind the stub axle - and i think the stub axle goes on first then the backing plate. I don't know why i did this. But this would move the backing plate maybe 15mm further out, so the drum would then meet...

I have come to the conclusion that the issue does not relate to the shoes. On the photo, the measurement shown for the front wheel is about 10 – 15mm longer than on the rear wheel. I have swapped the brake drums, and the front drum fits nicely on the rear. But I have the same issue at the...

Despite my best endeavours when rebuilding the engine, i landed up with the situation that the rotor arm was 180 degrees out i.e. if i have pot 1 HT lead the opposite side to where it should go on the distributor (and do the same to the other 3 leads), the engine runs fine. In the ideal world, i...

When I fit the rear drums, they virtually fit all the way up to the backing plate, which is what i expect. The two drums at the front don’t want to go the whole way – you can see there is a significant gap from the drum to the back plate. The obvious issue would be that they are snagging on...

I have now got the shoes fitted - and i cannot believe how difficult it was. In the end, i had to a) drain transfer case of oil, so that i could... b) ...remove the drive (otherwise all the oil drained out) (which obviously involved removing one end of the drive shaft) c) remove the back plate...

In the picture below, spring 503981 should be attached to the pole on the brake shoe at one end (where the 232074 label is) and where? In one video i saw, the other end was attached to the pole on the back plate, which is what i have done. But this does leave the top of the other brake shoe...

I have the two shoes and the 2 green springs. I foolishly put most of the mechanism in place and thought i could fit the shoes and the springs at the end, but i have wasted 3 hours so far on this. I have now taken off the two expanders (either side) but i still can't seem to get the shoes in...

thanks for the info, that was exactly what i needed to know. I will have go fitting another diaphragm, as carefully as i can.

ref the fuel leak, I cannot work out if there is supposed to be fuel one side of the diaphragm or it should be air. If it is air, then the fact the diaphragm leaks fuel is a symptom of something else that is wrong. If, however, it supposed to be fuel, then I “just” need to fix the leak. I have...

This is so simple, but I don't know what is right. I have 4 new hub caps - i thought i would just tap them over the hub and that would be that. But they don't seem to want to fit. I put a tiny bit of grease over the hub and also tried heating up the cap first with a torch to see if that would...

My carb has recommenced leaking. I was testing the car up and down my drive today with quite a bit of throttle. Once I had put the Landy back in the garage, I could see petrol dripping from the carb onto the manifold – not ideal. The drip seems to start from the underside of the diaphragm. You...

that was it - driver error. many thanks

Yup, wrong hose (despite me ordering the right ones etc). I swapped a spare i had and the one from the back of the car, which had longer threads at both ends, and that sorted the leaks. and then put one of these on the back. So leaks sorted.

Drove the bare-bones car out of the garage onto the drive for the first time after the rebuild. Brakes mostly ok, just need a bit of adjustment. Clutch feels OK – bit grippy but that’s to be expected. Engine starts and idles fine but needs coaxing to get power at higher revs – it dies otherwise...

The end nearest the wheel. I have seen that I could swap the hose on the rear axle with one of the ones at the front. The one on rear axle has identical, longer threads on the connectors.

I decided to buy a set of ready-made brake pipes for the Landy as that way I know I would have the right size tubing, connectors, good flares etc and they would be the right length. So, I fitted these to the bare chassis, and they looked fine. This included the flex pipes at each wheel. Today...

Interesting. I will see how the clutch feels and will consider what you suggest.