tottot's latest activity

Hazzard switch is full of magic. Magic can sometimes leak out. In my experience, sometimes this happens before you even buy the switch.

As @julianf above, faulty hazard switch often causes issues. Cheap enough to swap out.

Got the rear wiper working again, shaft was seized in its tube. There looks to be some sort of plastic liner in it that had expanded so ran a slightly bigger drill through it. Nice and free now with wiper whizzing back and fore. Only issue to...

Gearbox overhaul fairly easy, don’t need many special tools apart from HD circlip pliers, likely you won’t need to touch front output housing or transfer box and just main gearbox as tottot said you got the 3/4 gear synchro spring clips ...

Most rivet tools will do the 3 most common sizes. I would do as @miktdish above and drill out for the size you have.

OR it is possible to fit a series 3 box with the bell housing/clutch unit from a 2/2a box

There is no such thing as 2wd low ratio, it is only 4wd in low ratio. Sometimes if you jack a vehicle to check for drive the broken ends of a half shaft will still bind enough to spin an unloaded wheel.

Right bag of bits there, can see remains of 3/4 gear detent springs, possible remains of bearing cage. The goldy sheen will have come from damaged syncro cones. Steamwally has some good videos on the you tube of LT 76 series gearbox overhaul.

What wheelbase?

Mineral.

Rat's got that wrong, Tractor super universal is what I use a 15/40 oil.

I cut out the middle man these days and go straight for mayonnaise. 😳

10/40 mineral is what I use, the same as my old tractors get.

20% duck fat and 50% lard. The other 30% can be anything as it ends up on the drive anyway. 🤣😂🤣 Good old mineral oil is best. The modern stuff is too thin and sneaks past the seals. 👍

Fuel filter seal is another spot where air can get in causing a drain back.

Not quite. There's a bar with two flaps on it and four spring plates which are awkward buggers to fit - bent nosed pliers job, plus the cable and an annoyingly odd-sized trunnion.

So that's what it look's like in there :D

Ask again.

Bell housing to clutch housing no. Just replaced my bellhousing onto gear box and there was a paper gasket for it in the gasket set.

Have a look on Ebay, couple for sale and some new Series 3 Defender one's for about 250 beer tokens

Usual to have gasket.

A Ninety, One ten one will also fit. The 2/2a tailgate has separate stiffener strakes, the series 3 and later ones have the stiffeners pressed into the inner sheet.

ach. you can't really tell from that photo, but i think i have put the brake backing plate behind the stub axle - and i think the stub axle goes on first then the backing plate. I don't know why i did this. But this would move the backing plate...

Timing chain issues would result in continuous poor running and when tensioner gone you can hear it rattling in the case so rather unlikely. Valve stem seals gone and it is blue smoke, looks white to me. A case of lazy pot I recon as a result of...

Thanks. It was correct… but the old one appears to be wrong, but it worked which is odd. Doesn’t matter as that’s going in the bin.

Oh, so there would be a thread inside the tube that is part of the bulkhead? I guess mine have been drilled out at some point then, there were nyloc nuts on the other end of these.

Steamwally Series 3 gearbox overhaul video part two covers the fitting of the bearing and mentions it is important to have direction correct.

Well you did it, there was no need to drain oil if you lift the back of truck up some, Box will hold the back plate for you. Did you do the seal when flange off [ good time] Good idea band to hold expander bits in place.

I have now got the shoes fitted - and i cannot believe how difficult it was. In the end, i had to a) drain transfer case of oil, so that i could... b) ...remove the drive (otherwise all the oil drained out) (which obviously involved removing one...

One's you have could be series 2/2a, which have different [better I recon] hinge system.